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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
1 anti wrap bar vs. two

i know this topic has been to death, but there has always been one question on my mind.

you see the jeep/eb guys running a single bar setup with s shackle, on everything from dana 30's to 14 bolts with 70-400 hp. ive never heard of anyone twisting the tube sin the housing on a 1 ton rear...and i have seen a few fullsizes running a single bar.

Im just wondering on a higher hp rig like mine(470?) a 10.25 rear, 5.13's and 44's, with a 4 speed....could i get away with just one bar?? or do yall think i would break the pumpkin away from the tubes? i know two would be better, but im a poor poor lazy college student, and steel is expensive. plus im tired of my crappy no flex traction bars so if i could get away with one bar it would cut my costs in half, and i would have less clutter underneath than i do now with my two traction bars

Wut do yall think???? anyone running a single bar with a heavy right foot on their big block fullsize?
 

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I have

I ran a weld around the tubes were they go in the center section,and then ran one bar to the top of the diff. It may not have looked the best but it WORKED. I have a 514 engine and 44s the axle was a 14 bolt. Hope this helps just make that one arm pretty stout.
 

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I know someone in a buggy with a 14 bolt rear which spun a tube behind a 4.3 which is mostly stock.
 

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The next concern is just flat-out tearing the tube where your bar mounts are welded on. Seen it happen on an 8.8, but they're only 3/16" wall

But beware, your 10.25 is only 1/4" wall. So just build your brackets to have lots of contact around the tube

I'm running a single bar but don't have a heavy right foot or high horsepower like you, so no help there. If you do run a single bar right side is better, if you can fit it.
 

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I just ran the first trip on my single, and the mounts are secured like this.
Outside mount is pushed up againts the pumpkin, and welded to the tube and pumpkin. The inside mount was just welded to the housing.

The outside mount held, the inside failed. The weld held, but the metal on the housing tore out. Sorry no pics, Im out of town.

Moral is, if you are running big power make storng mounts. Im running a stock motor, but klune/205 and 40's. I dont really hammer down much either.
 

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I read in this months four wheeler that when runnin a sterling with anything higher (numerically) than 4.10's and 35's that you run the risk of your carrier gernading, and pinion to fawk up. :p


The anti wrap bar that was installed on my buddies 14B was attached via the pumpkin and the axle tube. Seemed to work good enuff. I dont see how 2 could help anymore, aside from stiffening things up?
 

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If your really worried about twisting a tube two traction bars isnt the answer... I've seen pumkins twist on both tubes several times

Run some solid 1-1.5" welds where the pumpkin and tube meet and run it... when you gets some more money and if your still worried build a truss that ties into both axle tubes and the pumkin
 

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plug ugly said:
The weld held, but the metal on the housing tore out.
Sounds like you MIG'd to cast iron?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
masterbeavis said:
I read in this months four wheeler that when runnin a sterling with anything higher (numerically) than 4.10's and 35's that you run the risk of your carrier gernading, and pinion to fawk up. :p

Thats weird??? I never could blow my sterling up when it was stock with a l/s and 4.10's with 39.5's, and even the 44's. And since ive been running 5.13's and a detroit ive never been able to grenade a thing except i did shear off all 8 bolts at the passenger side axle once...i think they had loosened up. Have u ever seen the pinion on a sterling?? they are massive....i dont see how it would grenade before a shaft. Fourwheeler must me smoking somthing again


I guess i will try and run just a single bar. And run some stitch welds around the tibes at the housing and pumpkin.

d60- where did you hear the tubes are only 1/4 inch?? that doesnt seem right

roktoy- what axles have u seen the pumpkin twist on both tubes?
 

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#1 - Four Wheeler's smoking it. Their tech is pathetic, and even worse when it comes to Ford stuff. However the pinion is always fawked on these axles because crush sleeves suck and the pinion bearings are too close together.

#2 - your experience with shearing the axle bolts backs up my *personal* theory that they're too small. A 14b uses 1/2" bolts to hold the axle to the wb hub, calls for 115ft lbs of torque on these bolts. A 10.25 uses ? 3/8 or maybe 10mm? and calls for 45ft lbs

#3 - I didn't hear that they're 1/4", I mic'd it myself on a hacked-up housing I got for free, actually it came out to .295":

 

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Discussion Starter #13
yea, i put a crush sleeve eliminator for a 9 inch in there and have never had a problem out of the pinion, i forgot to mention that. I went ahead and bought 16 new grade 8's at fastenall for a few bucks, and im pretty sure they are 7/16, but dont hold me to that. THese keep loosening up every few runs on jsut the passenger side, i guess i need to clean the threads out good and put some red locktite in there. It's really annoying. Makes me wanna sell and stick a 70 or a 14 in her.
so i guess the tubes are between 9/32 and 5/16, are the drw 10.25's still 1/4 inch, or are they any thicker?

what the hell are you doing with that housing in that pic??
 

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pinion problems

When I was running a 10.25 I had problems with the pinion falling into the carrier. I was going to replace the stuff, until a guy came into the local 4x4 shop I was working at with the same problem. A week later another guy came in so I held off replacing my junk. Over the next month or so we had 3 more people come in with the same problem so I went with a 14 bolt.
I just thought that this was pretty interesting
 

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blown4x4 said:
I just thought that this was pretty interesting
Typical actually, as is the shaft flange bolts loosening as Levi describes.

Levi, I'm guessing the tubes are a metric thickness, just as Ford used 5.5mm thick framerails, at least on the '88, '90 and '97 frames I've mic'd here at home.

EDIT: and if I werent' so lazy I'd figure up if .295" is close to anything metric, but I really don't care that much (shrug)
 

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I read too that the axleshaft bolts are prone to problems because they have no shoulder either... Makes me wonder why I didnt use my D70 instead of the junkyard sterling. Oh, ya, I wanted to retain the sorry excuse for ABS, and was allured by the thought of easy brake jobs by not having to take the entire hub off....
 

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Discussion Starter #19
plug- just use an eliminator for a 9 inch, i got one from randy's with my yukon junk and it works great, never had a problem with it since i torqued it down a few years ago.

i think your right master, im going to try and find some bolts with a locking shoulder to fit on mine
 

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I run a D60 f/r. On the rear I stitched the tubes to the diff. I then used one farm implement link (thick tube with heims on each end) mounted to the top of the drivers side rear spring plate and the other end to a mount on the side of the frame about where the front spring hanger is for the rear spring. Seems to work just fine. I'll try and get a pic posted.

JB
 
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