Wrong forum bud; search using google and Prepare yourself for a flaming.
I need advise on getting more flex
Hello all
Im going to swapping my axels out in the next few weeks for wider ones from a J10 truck
I want to be able to make my leaf sprung YJ more flexxy while Im at it
I know that I can remove the front sway bar (Im gonna use discos its still my daily ride)
Im also going to do away with the front and rear track bars
I could also go SOA but Im not ready to go that route untill I get an SYE and some bigger tires and and and ....but Im wondreing is there anything else I can do to make it more flexxy
does shock position/angle affect anything
is there anything else anybody have any thoughts or ideas
right now my springs are of the 4" lift flavour and I have shackles that are about an inch and a half longer than stock with 33" tires and no body lift
Im going to swapping my axels out in the next few weeks for wider ones from a J10 truck
I want to be able to make my leaf sprung YJ more flexxy while Im at it
I know that I can remove the front sway bar (Im gonna use discos its still my daily ride)
Im also going to do away with the front and rear track bars
I could also go SOA but Im not ready to go that route untill I get an SYE and some bigger tires and and and ....but Im wondreing is there anything else I can do to make it more flexxy
does shock position/angle affect anything
is there anything else anybody have any thoughts or ideas
right now my springs are of the 4" lift flavour and I have shackles that are about an inch and a half longer than stock with 33" tires and no body lift
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Remove your sway bar and track bars and report back.
And this should be Jeep newb section.
And this should be Jeep newb section.
I have used the Google search and Ive gotten all the "newb" basic answers
longer shocks (done)
shorter bump stops (done)
remove sways (done in rear and discos in front)
revolver shackles
longer shackles (done)
remove track bars (done)
this is all basic stuff that anyone with an IQ higher than a monkeys could figure out
I want to know about shock position /angle
shackle position front of spring or rear
quater eliptical springs
4 link vs 3 link
things along this line
things that a "newbie" isn't going to know squat about so if I was asking about them yes I would have posted in the other forum but I'm a little futher on than the "Can I fit 31s on my stock jeep" bull sh*t"
but if people feel the need to flame me then so be it
longer shocks (done)
shorter bump stops (done)
remove sways (done in rear and discos in front)
revolver shackles
longer shackles (done)
remove track bars (done)
this is all basic stuff that anyone with an IQ higher than a monkeys could figure out
I want to know about shock position /angle
shackle position front of spring or rear
quater eliptical springs
4 link vs 3 link
things along this line
things that a "newbie" isn't going to know squat about so if I was asking about them yes I would have posted in the other forum but I'm a little futher on than the "Can I fit 31s on my stock jeep" bull sh*t"
but if people feel the need to flame me then so be it
i feel ya man if you don't have 2384874 posts then nobody thinks you know shit. pretty gay... different manufactures can make spring packs with a softer rate. four links are a pain in the ass if you don't have any help. a shackle reversal will allow the axle to move back wards toward the tcase while it is compressing whereas a front shackle will only allow it to move forward while compressing. u could try something like taking a spring out of the spring pack to soften them up but might drop ride height. can't think of anything else it's late. hope i helped cause after all that's what this site is all about helping people and learnin.
Shackes on the rear of the spring are better than on the front, because with it on the rear, the axle will naturally move backwards when a bump is encountered, thus letting it go over obstacles with greater ease. When the shackle is up front, the axle can not move (much if any) backwards, so the Jeep is forced to drive the axle up with more force, and risking the chance of breaking more stuff.
a double triangulated 4 link will not require a panhard bar to locate the axle, but a 3 link will. Either setup designed correctly can perform very well, but do your homework for the love of god.
quarter elliptical springs have their advantages and disadvantages. they are effectively just like a leaf spring, so you do run the risk of wearing them out easier as opposed to coils or coilovers. I personally would not run them, because they require a bit more components to mount them, and they have to be in different spots. My $.02 is that coilovers are best for something that is daily driven or sees alot of street driving, because of the ability to run dual rate springs; and i think air shocks are best for a trail rig.
The bottom line is, do your homework before you build anything, and for the love of god, and for the sake of everyone driving around you, don't jankify it.
P.S...i am a noobie too, so if any of my info is wrong, someone shout out. I haven't really built anything, I just have helped build, been around, wheeled with most of these setups (except for anything with air shocks) and have also done alot of reading, but may have something wrong.
and my jeep is on leaf springs. damnit!
a double triangulated 4 link will not require a panhard bar to locate the axle, but a 3 link will. Either setup designed correctly can perform very well, but do your homework for the love of god.
quarter elliptical springs have their advantages and disadvantages. they are effectively just like a leaf spring, so you do run the risk of wearing them out easier as opposed to coils or coilovers. I personally would not run them, because they require a bit more components to mount them, and they have to be in different spots. My $.02 is that coilovers are best for something that is daily driven or sees alot of street driving, because of the ability to run dual rate springs; and i think air shocks are best for a trail rig.
The bottom line is, do your homework before you build anything, and for the love of god, and for the sake of everyone driving around you, don't jankify it.
P.S...i am a noobie too, so if any of my info is wrong, someone shout out. I haven't really built anything, I just have helped build, been around, wheeled with most of these setups (except for anything with air shocks) and have also done alot of reading, but may have something wrong.
and my jeep is on leaf springs. damnit!
Most shocks work the best mounted straight up and down. Unless your a suspension guru i would keep them close to the factory setup. Longer shocks will help only if they are limiting your susp travel now. Disconnect them and flex it out,at max flex see if they can be bolted back up. You won't get any better flex with a shackle reversal IMO. Get rid of the trac bars,use the disco's in front. keeping your leaf susp f&r without going to a SOA you'll probably get the most flex with some revolver shackles. You will definately have to check your shock length if you go that way. As far as a link susp goes,do your research then research some more. There are countless threads on here about the many different link suspensions. good luck
xj_man_646 said:Shackes on the rear of the spring are better than on the front, because with it on the rear, the axle will naturally move backwards when a bump is encountered, thus letting it go over obstacles with greater ease. When the shackle is up front, the axle can not move (much if any) backwards, so the Jeep is forced to drive the axle up with more force, and risking the chance of breaking more stuff.
No sale, xj. You may "break less stuff", but your rig's ability to climb will be compromised because the torque of the axle will push the tire away from the traction surface instead of pulling it into the traction surface. Based on experience, shackles on the rear of the spring are NOT better, unless you are talking about improved ride and handling on the street.
I'm guessing this is most of your problem. It is extremely difficult to design a leaf spring that is 4" taller than stock (and doesn't sag) without increasing the spring rate and consequently decreasing flex. Go SOA or lower and sawzall and you will have better flex.possumjeep said:right now my springs are of the 4" lift flavour and I have shackles that are about an inch and a half longer than stock with 33" tires and no body lift
PS - revolvers suck! I haven't been wheeling with a single rig that got any advantage from using them. They unload when climbing or running off camber and contribute to wheel hop. Maybe somebody has seen benefit, but I haven't.possumjeep said:I have used the Google search and Ive gotten all the "newb" basic answers
longer shocks (done)
shorter bump stops (done)
remove sways (done in rear and discos in front)
revolver shackles
longer shackles (done)
remove track bars (done)
this is all basic stuff that anyone with an IQ higher than a monkeys could figure out
I want to know about shock position /angle
shackle position front of spring or rear
quater eliptical springs
4 link vs 3 link
things along this line
things that a "newbie" isn't going to know squat about so if I was asking about them yes I would have posted in the other forum but I'm a little futher on than the "Can I fit 31s on my stock jeep" bull sh*t"
but if people feel the need to flame me then so be it
I would also try to keep it simple. Don't try and change too much at once. You will gain some perceived flex just from the wider axles having more leverage on the springs. I also agree with the above post about revolver shackles,they do allow the suspension to unload,sometimes at a very bad time.
withamc said:PS - revolvers suck! I haven't been wheeling with a single rig that got any advantage from using them. They unload when climbing or running off camber and contribute to wheel hop. Maybe somebody has seen benefit, but I haven't.
I have also heard that Revolvers can open up while on the street if you are going around a bend in the road as the body rolls they open as they use the weight of the body to stay closed so thats why I havent gone that route
thanks for all the help guys
im not sure you get extra flex from shackles reversals, the difference is in the ride, somebody posted up a big descriptive explanation of pros/cons of them but the simple answer is this;
shackles in front with flat springs are going to make the ride smoother by allowing the axle to move back when a bump is encountered.
on lifted springs, the axle wants to move forward with the shackles in front. but, by the axle moving forward, you put more pressure on that tire which in turn allows less slippage when climbing up a rock/obstacle.
shackle reversal on lifted springs will allow the axle to move to the rear when hitting a bump/obstacle.
the debated part of which is better come into play with 2 factors. the shackle in front, with a lifted spring, as previously stated, provides more pressure on the obstacle you are climbing, providing more traction. however, with a shackle reversal, as you climb the obstacle, the axle moves back, and the tire climbs up as the truck drives over.
as for more flex, besides the obvious that you already mentioned, you can also getr better flex out of a longer spring, resulting in more droop, while staying stable as compared to a revolver type shackle. also, shortening you bumpstops isnt as importent as setting them up correctly. when setup properly, you protect your fenders AND they will act as a fulcrum, pushing the other tire to droop more.
longer anything, better this and that, isnt always going to net you the performance you want/need, compared to doing your research and setting things up properly. look at sex, a longer dick aint gonna get you more sex if its not working right...
shackles in front with flat springs are going to make the ride smoother by allowing the axle to move back when a bump is encountered.
on lifted springs, the axle wants to move forward with the shackles in front. but, by the axle moving forward, you put more pressure on that tire which in turn allows less slippage when climbing up a rock/obstacle.
shackle reversal on lifted springs will allow the axle to move to the rear when hitting a bump/obstacle.
the debated part of which is better come into play with 2 factors. the shackle in front, with a lifted spring, as previously stated, provides more pressure on the obstacle you are climbing, providing more traction. however, with a shackle reversal, as you climb the obstacle, the axle moves back, and the tire climbs up as the truck drives over.
as for more flex, besides the obvious that you already mentioned, you can also getr better flex out of a longer spring, resulting in more droop, while staying stable as compared to a revolver type shackle. also, shortening you bumpstops isnt as importent as setting them up correctly. when setup properly, you protect your fenders AND they will act as a fulcrum, pushing the other tire to droop more.
longer anything, better this and that, isnt always going to net you the performance you want/need, compared to doing your research and setting things up properly. look at sex, a longer dick aint gonna get you more sex if its not working right...
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Pirate 4x4
A forum community dedicated to custom off-road vehicle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about trail reports, builds, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, fabrication, drivetrain, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Top Contributors this Month
View All
Wontun Splodies
75 Replies
total newb
55 Replies
Beat95YJ
53 Replies
Recommended Communities
