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Discussion Starter #1
Well I'll start at day one. I came home and started up my stock 84 to let it run since it had been sitting for a while and went in side to change and stuff. When I came out it had died and I figured no big deal it was on empty anyway. So I ran to get gas for it and put in about half a tank and tried to start it up. It wouldn't start and sounded like the starter was just spinning but he truck didn't even seem like it was trying to turn over. Next I put very little gas in the carb like I was told to do by a friend and tried to start it up again but still just got the spinning sound. By this time my battery was about dead so I hooked up my charger and kept trying to start it when after a few more tries it all of a sudden just made a clunk sound and wouldn't even make the spinning sound. So today I went and bought a rebuilt starter and had the battery tested and charged and after installing them all I get is a clunk when I try to start it. It sounds like something is seized what could it be and what do I check next. Please help me every time I turn the key all I get is this fucking clunk.

[ 10-08-2001: Message edited by: Skulls138 ]
 

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Does the engine have oil, and if it does, does it have water in it? <IMG SRC="smilies/question.gif" border="0">
 

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Try turning the motor another way.....If it is a stick, put in high gear, take off the brake and roll it. If it is an automatic, put a socket on the crank pulley bolt, and turn the motor over. If it doesn't move, you have a siezed engine. If not, you could have a bad ring gear on the flywheel....But it is a strange coincidence for this to fail while idling. You don't say how long you left it unattended, but it could have overheated, lost oil pressure, or just plain broke.
Good Luck! <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/crybaby2.gif" border="0">
 

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IF your motor is seized, pull the plugs and squirt a LITTLE BIT of oil in the cylinder, then after a few minutes try turning the crank bolt with a breaker bar. Hopefully if its not siezed to bad, it will break free. Throw your plugs back in and try start it! This worked on my '71 Camaro back in the day, and the motor continued to run till I replaced it. Good luck!
 

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Need more input on this "spinning" noise you say you get. The starter is spinning but the motor isn't cranking or the motor is cranking and thats the"spinning" You left out a few key changes. The clank is from where? The starter is seised and will not engage (pull starter out and have someone turn the key while you have it hooked up and holding carfully) Or the starter engages but will not crank the motor? Pull the dipstic and tell us exactly what you see aka burned white milky none? Does the motor crank at all? Could be a bad starter from where you bought it but my first trick will solve that Q. Get more info and tell us what you find. I will check back tomorow.
 

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Originally posted by the General:
<STRONG>IF your motor is seized, pull the plugs and squirt a LITTLE BIT of oil in the cylinder, then after a few minutes try turning the crank bolt with a breaker bar.</STRONG>
Good idea. I used transmission fluid once, right down the carb, and it freed up my 327 chev. But listen to the advice you asked for, work it, and ask again, you'll find the problem.

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks everyone for the help and I tried the small amount of oil in the cylinders and a breaker bar on the crank pulley since I just installed a Marlin dual case and don't have any drive shafts on it yet. Well it worked something was definitely seized and after a couple good wacks on the breaker bar what ever it was was freed. I then could turn the crank pulley but it would get hard at times and act like it wanted to seize but wouldn't. So I finally tried to start it up and it turned over but wouldn't start. So what now? I sprayed starter fluid in the carb and it still doesn't start but hasn't seized up again yet. As for oil it is full with lightly black oil probably could use a change but doesn't seem to be burnt or anything just dirty.
 

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I would say take the valve cover off and look at the timing chain. TO me it almost sounds like a timing chain braking. With the spining of the engine, the the locking of the engine (pistons hitting the valves) and when you used the braker bar, you bend the valves, and now when you turn over, its just keep hitting the valves.
Shane (who knows little about engines) <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Originally posted by Just make it stop Skyetone:
<STRONG>check for spark and now pull a compression check. May have hidden internal problems. Did it get hard to crank on the compression cycle maybee?</STRONG>
How do I check for spark and compression I'm new to all this?

[ 10-09-2001: Message edited by: Skulls138 ]
 

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Originally posted by PARANOID56:
<STRONG>I would say take the valve cover off and look at the timing chain. TO me it almost sounds like a timing chain braking. With the spining of the engine, the the locking of the engine (pistons hitting the valves) and when you used the braker bar, you bend the valves, and now when you turn over, its just keep hitting the valves.
Shane (who knows little about engines) <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
Ditto.

[ 10-09-2001: Message edited by: 82FB ]
 

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Originally posted by Skulls138:
<STRONG>How do I check for spark and compression I'm new to all this?

[ 10-09-2001: Message edited by: Skulls138 ]</STRONG>
An easy way to check for spark is to pull a wire, install a screwdriver into the plug wire (preferably one with a plastic handle), put the metal rod near some other metal and have someone crank it for you and look for an arc. For compression, get a compression guage (Sears) and follow instructions, pretty straight forward, Oh, and check it against OE specs. Don't be upset if the compression does not meet OE specs, it is common for compression to drop. Anything too low and you will know. Check eaach cylinder.
 

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I've broken a timing chain before, and what you describe sounds very similar.

Before you do any more damage by spinning that thing over and over and over, pull the valve cover and check your timing chain!
 

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Agreed the top cover is a ten muinite jobber. Look at that then look at the coil wire for spark. The compression guage screws in like a sparkplug and you crank the motor a few times on each cylinder and compare notes. I had a bad valve. #1 110 #2 110 #3 125 #4 60.... <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0"> CHECK the timing chain first. Thats a smart idea. <IMG SRC="smilies/blush2.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Originally posted by Vermont_Toy:
<STRONG>pull the valve cover and check your timing chain!</STRONG>
Does the Valve cover have another name for it? I'm looking in my Haynes manual and can't find it. I did find directions on how to pull the timing chain cover which looks like a PITA but I will do if need be.
 

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The valve cover is on the very top of the engine, it has 4 acorn type nuts with rubber washers that hold it on, I believe 12mm. I agree, timing chain.
 

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A: let us know if you found, or looked, for spark.
B: taking off the chain cover, and looking, <IMG SRC="smilies/eyemouth.gif" border="0"> at the belt, is a pita worth your while.
C: a valve cover is usually a valve cover, by any other name.
D: is the motor "spinning" nicely? or drag-like when it turns over?

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Discussion Starter #19
Originally posted by j-me4runner:
<STRONG>The valve cover is on the very top of the engine, it has 4 acorn type nuts with rubber washers that hold it on, I believe 12mm. I agree, timing chain.</STRONG>
Thanks I just pulled it and I'm assuming that there should be a chain around the camshaft sprocket which there isn't. So I found the problem and how hard is it to fix? Also what else could I have messed up by trying to start it over and over.
 
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