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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so I am very ignorant when it comes to u joints. I can change them but when it comes to sizes I'm lost. I just put my 70u in my 1970 f250 and thought it was the same joint but it's not. From my best measurements on the yoke it needs one that is .07 larger in dia. The cross is the same length the cap dia is what is different. To make matters even more confusing for me the truck came equipped with bastard joints. I am completely lost and have no clue what to do to get it hooked up. I need some serious schooling.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Did a little more measuring looks like I need 1310-1350 u joint. Spicer number 5-460x this sound right
 

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Yup a conversion joint. Napa carries them.
 

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Dont know if this will help you or not, but i just threw a 70b in my 98 ranger and found that the stock ujoint actually was the same size for the 70!

So maybe look into that if ya cant find anything else:D and if ya dont i have a brand new ujoint in the box still for my 77250 and my other 70. ill ship it to ya if ya want it:smokin:
 

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You don't want a conversion joint! Which end of joint is 1330? The diff or the slip yoke? I'm guessing the slip yoke. Go to the wrecker and find a new one with same splines but with a 1350 end. Cap diameter is 1 1/8 bring a measuring tape. If it's the diff ,swap out the yoke to 1350. What are you running for a rear driveshaft. Curious.. What's the angle on the joint off the tcase. If it's say more than 15 degrees you'll burn up joints fast and you will want a 1350 cv. Buy a $10 bubble angle finder throw it on your shaft and get a degree to find out but on a level surface..
You got divorced or a married t case?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
From the factory it has bastard joints all the way around. The drive shaft yokes are 1310 and the diff yokes are 1330s. Swapping the 70 in the back its yoke is for a 1350. Eventually i want to go to 1350 or 1410 all the way around but with Christmas here and in middle of job change, and still gotta put ram assist on it where I can take it out in feb. A 22$ u joint fits the budget better
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok so I got my u joint and had to look high and low to find sone straps for a 1350. The only ones I found were for a new dodge or ford. (so the parts guy said) they have the right fit for the bearing cap but are to big to fit the holes on my yoke. I can drill the holes on the yoke to fit but does not seem like there will be alot of material left. Anyone ever done this.
 

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Ok so I got my u joint and had to look high and low to find sone straps for a 1350. The only ones I found were for a new dodge or ford. (so the parts guy said) they have the right fit for the bearing cap but are to big to fit the holes on my yoke. I can drill the holes on the yoke to fit but does not seem like there will be alot of material left. Anyone ever done this.
Sounds like a scabby fix.
Are you driving this thing? Whats the rush.Why not just upgrade your junk once and do it right with good parts? Throw away the straps, get a 1350 yoke with u bolts..
Building driveshafts are not rocket science but a necessity with big tires if you want any kind of reliability. Build a cv shaft with all 1350 joints or wrench on it on the trail.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok well I got in a rush guess I miss measured didn't need a conversion joint. The factory u joint fit. And it does have the u bolt straps. I'm going to run it like it is and see how the 1330s hold up I want to actually wheel it some and see what breaks. I have been building axles and wat not for two years now. It's time to wheel and see what breaks. Ya I know it will probably be the drive shafts. But it's time to do some thrashing. ( after I put ram assist on it)
 
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