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Ok, I have been thinking about painting my 60 myself for a while now and I think I'm up for it. I know someone that rebuilds cars and says he will shoot it if i do all the prep so he doesnt have to be here all day. So basically i want to do a color match of the out side, i dont want the pinstripes. So how much paint, sand paper, tape, clear coat ect.. do i need? Also how many coats should I do? and should I use a coat of clear coat? any help would be great also for those of you that have done it what did supplies cost you? Also how long did it take you

thanks Blake
ps my 1985 fj0 is Gun Metal Gray, Code 8B4 ( i think)
 

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I ain't got a big ol' 60, but I just painted my 40 so perhaps I can help.

Prep work is critical so I used a wire brush to remove any dirt left over from previous events. COST: free (I already had the wire brush)

6 cans of Krylon Olive Drab @ $3.99 ea. = $23.94.

For best results, sand in between coats. I used a wisk broom. COST: free (I already had the wisk broom)

OPTIONAL: I got fancy and added a white star on the hood. COST: another $3.99 for a can of flat white paint and $3.99 for some masking tape. (I already had some newspaper)

Therefore, total material cost = $31.92 (including the star)

Time involved: approximately 6 hours (including 2 hours drying time)

Additional costs: Case of Shiner @ $22.76.

Hope this helps. Good luck.
 

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Zeus of the Sluice
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KOWBOY said:
I ain't got a big ol' 60, but I just painted my 40 so perhaps I can help.

Prep work is critical so I used a wire brush to remove any dirt left over from previous events. COST: free (I already had the wire brush)

6 cans of Krylon Olive Drab @ $3.99 ea. = $23.94.

For best results, sand in between coats. I used a wisk broom. COST: free (I already had the wisk broom)

OPTIONAL: I got fancy and added a white star on the hood. COST: another $3.99 for a can of flat white paint and $3.99 for some masking tape. (I already had some newspaper)

Therefore, total material cost = $31.92 (including the star)

Time involved: approximately 6 hours (including 2 hours drying time)

Additional costs: Case of Shiner @ $22.76.

Hope this helps. Good luck.
the only thing I would do different is,...... a pig instead of a star, and Labatt :beer:

AND!,...if ya paint in a small enough area,... ya dont even need the beer :smokin:
 

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1- gallon covers a 60 nicely w/ 2 good coats, so you'll need about 1-gallon of primer, base & clear. If you want a nice paint job deffinately go w/ a base & clear. just about any paint store can give you a close approximation of your paint color.

I just painted my 60 & probably have about $200 in supplies (sand paper, wire wheels, wax & grease remover, respirator & tons of other crap that you need) & about $300 into paint. I went single stage (no clearcoat) but its was a bitch to work with & you can't easily fix mistakes. If I did it again it would be base & clearcoat. for a decent paint expect to pay about $100+ (primer) $150 (base) & $150 Clear coat.

I'm now having serious trouble with the paint (it won't fully cure) & the valspar rep has no idea why, I may be totally sanding & repainting soon. I'd stick with a well known brand of paint but don't go overboard, all 2k urethanes are great paints. When you get a primer the primer/sealers are nice. Also don't forget to etch prime any bare metal you expose.
 

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sixty said:
1- gallon covers a 60 nicely w/ 2 good coats, so you'll need about 1-gallon of primer, base & clear. If you want a nice paint job deffinately go w/ a base & clear. just about any paint store can give you a close approximation of your paint color.

I just painted my 60 & probably have about $200 in supplies (sand paper, wire wheels, wax & grease remover, respirator & tons of other crap that you need) & about $300 into paint. I went single stage (no clearcoat) but its was a bitch to work with & you can't easily fix mistakes. If I did it again it would be base & clearcoat. for a decent paint expect to pay about $100+ (primer) $150 (base) & $150 Clear coat.

I'm now having serious trouble with the paint (it won't fully cure) & the valspar rep has no idea why, I may be totally sanding & repainting soon. I'd stick with a well known brand of paint but don't go overboard, all 2k urethanes are great paints. When you get a primer the primer/sealers are nice. Also don't forget to etch prime any bare metal you expose.
First of all a good paint jop is only as good as the prep. It takes a lot of time and patience. Definitely "don't forget to etch prime any bare metal you expose."

I have repainted a 60 too and agree with most everything that Sixty has to say. I definitley would go with a base coat and a clear coat. I used more than a gallon of each, primer, paint and clear, but I sprayed more than two coats. I sprayed several coats of clear for a deeper looking paint job. Use a sealing primer, brand name paint and a clear that is recommended for the paint used. All of this stuff doesn't come cheap but is worth it in the end.

As far as matching the factories original color a good paint store should be able to get the paint code by matching numbers under the hood or in the door jam. Good Luck!
 
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