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Discussion Starter #742
Thanks dude.

The overhead console will be a reworked OEM console, with 6 slots. 5 switches and the dual voltage gauge.

In-dash will house the compressor switch and air paddle switches. Ill be using the blank opening that is provided by the factory for the upfitter switches.

All three gauges (tank PSI, left/right bag PSI, and aux fuel tank level) will be top mounted on the dash in nothing more than a cheap 3-up gauge pod.


More to come. I do love these holiday weeks. Makes for more shop time :grinpimp:
 

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Discussion Starter #743
Alright, some parts ID help needed.

OEM wiring. there is one lead from battery straight to starter.
And another, that goes to a junction box of some sort w/ a plastic cover, that in turn ties to the alternator and other goodies.

Whats the name of this junction box. Anybody know? I cannot find reference to it anywhere.... Id like to source another one, in order to upgrade the wiring from the alternator.

Thanks

 

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Is it a fusable link of some sort?

-Chris

Alright, some parts ID help needed.

OEM wiring. there is one lead from battery straight to starter.
And another, that goes to a junction box of some sort w/ a plastic cover, that in turn ties to the alternator and other goodies.

Whats the name of this junction box. Anybody know? I cannot find reference to it anywhere.... Id like to source another one, in order to upgrade the wiring from the alternator.

Thanks

 

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Discussion Starter #745
Looks like it, although it feeds all kinds of stuff.

In addition to the large alternator wire, it has 2 harnesses attached to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #748
That isnt anything close to what Im looking at.
It looks to be a fused link + buss.
Ill get a good photo of it later.


I am in need some other input though.
Along with all the other wiring fun, I have tapped into the overhead console,
while Im there to use the dome light as a trigger for running board courtesy lights.

12V from dome light ----> relay under hood ----> running boards.

This will keep any additional current off the dome light circuit, but utilize it as a trigger.
I've heard that the BCM's in these trucks are picky as hell, so I'm playing it safe.

One potential problem though. The dome light turns on and off slow.
As in, off to dim to bright when turned on, then bright to dim to off when turned off.
So I have relay BUZZ every time the relay is triggered, then released.

Any thoughts on this? And chance this isnt going to be an issue?
I feel like the relay simply wont last doing this....
Any work-arounds to fix it?

These are the relays being used currently, they are micro relays.

Thanks for any help!

 

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Discussion Starter #749
Alright... for those keeping track.

While taking a photo of the part in question, I was able to nab a part number.

bc3t-14a094-ac

And photos pulled up via google as well as amazon listings show the incorrect part. Seems I get to visit the local dealer if I actually want another.

Under closer inspection, it is indeed a bank of large fused links

Red arrows, from left to right...

*Cable to positive battery terminal
*cable from fused link to alternator
*Not sure. probably to fuse panel??
*again, not sure, probably to fuse panel??

What I cannot tell without removal, is whether or not the lead from the alternator to the positive battery terminal is fused. And that is the lead Id love to upgrade.

Anywho... photo of said mystery item

 

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I'd maybe consider sending your dome light trigger wire through a 5V voltage regulator, to a relay with a 5V coil?

Alternatively you could probably use a transistor to receive the + voltage from the trigger wire, and use it as a switch to ground the 12V relay rather than supply the relay coil with power.
 

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Discussion Starter #751 (Edited)
I'd maybe consider sending your dome light trigger wire through a 5V voltage regulator, to a relay with a 5V coil?

Alternatively you could probably use a transistor to receive the + voltage from the trigger wire, and use it as a switch to ground the 12V relay rather than supply the relay coil with power.
Thanks for he help.

Yeah, so I need some way to get a cleaner on-off & off-on trigger for the relay.

I get that :homer:

I've been scavenging info off of forums about this, and it sounds like some people are solving it my placing an inline capacitor & diode on that trigger lead. How would that compare to the your suggested transistor?

Id like to avoid a 5v relay if possible. My wiring setup is too new and pretty to considering it shocking it up... but if it comes to it, I will.

All of this is a bit beyond me, and Xmas drinking isn't helping.

So please be gentle!:flipoff2:
 

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Might be able to use something like this also:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019F3BEIO/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1

Hook your dome light feed up to the 'battery' side, and the relay coil power up to the 'load' side. That way it won't try to trigger the relay until the feed is over 10V.

edit: reviews on that one are a bit suspect; this one looks better:

https://www.amazon.com/Galley-Power-LLC-Voltage-Disconnect/dp/B0147DYUN8/ref=pd_cp_86_2?pd_rd_w=PVgRL&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=8WZNCHWPFB07ZTKEKYPW&pd_rd_r=938de321-08ab-11e9-b54d-a3f4d08ced8f&pd_rd_wg=T5CVm&pd_rd_i=B0147DYUN8&psc=1&refRID=8WZNCHWPFB07ZTKEKYPW

but either way, maybe consider researching something along those lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #753
Awesome dude.

Much appreciated. The low voltage connect/disconnect device looks promising. And MUCH easier to install :laughing:

I imagine the bad reviews are related to high current devices overtaxing it.

This has VERY little current, so even the cheapest one I can find might work well.

Thanks again, Ill order one tonight :)
 

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Discussion Starter #756
Reviews for that one are pretty bad, compared to the one I have coming.

The connect/disconnect voltages are pretty low as well. Higher the better for relay latching.

I can also epoxy-pot the thing myself, so no worries.
 

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Discussion Starter #758
Well, the little chinesium device actually works!

Although I did manage to find the actual "puddle light" wires, so things are more correctly tapped into that circuit, so running thru a relay is arguably not needed now.

Also, overhead console is just about done.

I was just about to post an update with pics...

that is until I was prompted to call rotorooter....
On double time holiday rates...

Welcome to 2019 :flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #759
Well, after about $400 on new years day, toilets are flushing again.
Flushing without backing up the basement anyhows....
Back to the overhead console. It came out pretty good, Im happy.
Short of one of the "side light" indicator LEDs being DOA, things look to be working as intended.

Pics...

OEM console gutted. Two sunglass pockets removed.


The sunglass pockets were then reversed, glued together, and laid out for the switch plates.



A bit of aluminum for the sides to hold things together, switch plates and switches dropped in.


Looking good


Aluminum cross pieces added to mount to the console bucket, and all switches (and voltage gauge) wired up.


A small bit of double stick foam weatherstrip to infill the sides, then the gauges dropped into the console bucket


Mounting bolts that mount the gauge panel to the console.
I did have to provide clearance for these inside the cab.


Best shots you get in-cab for now.
again, besides the offending partially DOA switch, all seems well.





Wiring is a bit tricky, its as follows:

In the top row, the power switch is fed by an always hot.
When ON, it provides VOLTAGE info for the volt gauge, as well as HOT for the aux-battery switch that energizes the continuous duty relay (charge circuit for the camper)
This will allow me to charge both house and truck batteries when parked via solar.

So the voltage gauge and aux-battery switches can operate with the vehicle off, and everything "asleep"

All indicator lights, the text on the switches is powered by the dome light circuit. So all indicators illuminate the moment you unlock the doors or open the doors,
and stay on when the vehicle is running. VIA the factory accessory delay relay, they stay hot even after closing the doors, engine off, and even locked for 10 minutes. Then it all powers down.

In the bottom row, the HOT side of the side lights switch, fuel pump switch, and winch power switch are the same. All powered by the dome light accessory delay circuit.

Clear as mud?:eek:
 

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Looking good! I like it.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
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