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I am going to be lifting my 89 V6 in the spring and am starting to collect the parts. I want to fit 33s so I am going 3 inch suspension and 1.5 body lift. More height means more travel. Right? <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> I was wondering if the Tacome suspension is better than my pickup suspension. If so, can I swap parts out between the two or will it need major fabrication? also what is a good brand for control arms? Downey, procomp, trailmaster...? Any opinions please.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the opinion. I would do a SAS but I live in Chicago and a SAS is a little extreme for around here. I like speed so fire roads and mudding is what I do and SAS seems like it would not be as nice of a ride. When I move away from Chicago to a place with more in the way of wheeling I will SAS, but for right now a lift for IFS is best.
 

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I had a 4" SkyJacker on my 88 Xcab and liked it. 33's fit fine without a body lift, though I did have to get wheels with a little less backspacing.

My $0.02

Mark
 

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My opinion is if you can't find a used IFS lift for cheap, don't bother. I'm in Michigan and there is nothing around here that I have found that can't be traversed with a Toyota on 31's. Only real hardcore place I know of is down in Indiana, Badlands ORV Park in Attica. There I would like to have a SAS! <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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I have a Rancho 3" IFS lift, perfect for what you desire, fast offroad with great handling... forsale cheap. e-mail me for info. [email protected]

Brian
 

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Without a doubt, the SAS is the ideal setup. But let the truth be known, I'm in the same boat. I cannot seem to convince the wife to convert her 95 runner. So, What I'm looking at is the explorer stage two front and All Pro's rear coil set up in the rear. Yes, the prices are close to the sas, but what can you do? Anybody else have any good ideas for the coil lift for the rear thats worth a darn to accomodate 33's <IMG SRC="smilies/question.gif" border="0">
 

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Man, I know what your sayin, but you don't want the ifs. Its not a better ride than the ifs (imho). We don't have a bunch of rocks and stuff down here in GA either, but ifs is still out! You gotta know that the solid axle is way stronger than the ifs. SASers will tell you the stuff that they broke on their ifs. And you won't break birfields fireroadin and muddin! You will break idler arms though. Do a SAS with a not-so-flexy spring and the ride will be the same as an ifs ride. You're gonna bounce goin fast in mud and stuff anyway. Hy-steer is better than the stock ifs steering system.
Do a search and figure out how to do a cheap sas. Or you can stay with the <IMG SRC="smilies/rainbow.gif" border="0"> ifs. Trailmaster is best ifs lift, maybe that used rancho would be good. Just get ready to start breakin stuff.
 

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i meant inho ifs is not a better ride than the sas. sorry <IMG SRC="smilies/glasses.gif" border="0">
 

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Unless you add longer control arms or modify your bumpstops, you will not increase travel with an IFS lift.

There are companies that make longer control arms. These are not lifts, they are travel kits. The only lift is that you add by adjusting your torsion bars. The kits are for best for high speed desert/jumping style driving and are very expensive (around $2500 by the time you add in long travel shocks and new shock mounts.)

Several companies make IFS lifts. The bumpstops can be modified to to increase travel but it will not really articulate.

You can fit 33" tires with just a 1" body lift and a little trimming of the rear edge of the fender and firewall. Chris Geiger wrote an article about it back in his short lived IFS days. You can see it here http://www.off-road.com/toyota/rockrunner/modifications/33/33.html .

This is what I would recommend doing unless you are interesting in investing the money in a solid axle swap or a long travel kit and fiberglass fenders.

The Tacoma suspension is not better than your stock suspension.
 

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Unless you add longer control arms or modify your bumpstops, you will not increase travel with an IFS lift.
There are companies that make longer control arms. These are not lifts, they are travel kits. The only lift is that you add by adjusting your torsion bars. The kits are for best for high speed desert/jumping style driving and are very expensive (around $2500 by the time you add in long travel shocks and new shock mounts.)

Several companies make IFS lifts. The bumpstops can be modified to to increase travel but it will not really articulate.

You can fit 33" tires with just a 1" body lift and a little trimming of the rear edge of the fender and firewall. Chris Geiger wrote an article about it back in his short lived IFS days. You can see it here http://www.off-road.com/toyota/rockrunner/modifications/33/33.html .

"This is what I would recommend doing unless you are interesting in investing the money in a solid axle swap or a long travel kit and fiberglass fenders.

The Tacoma suspension is not better than your stock suspension. "


Some first post!!
But you've been following the toy off-road world for a while if you remember Chris' "short live ifs days." They were'nt that short-lived. He wheeled it for a while. Anyway, welcome to the board. Here's the infamous pirate salute

<IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

<IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

<IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">
 

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Go with the SAS. Yes, it is a lot of money, but it is worth it. Wheel it like it is now, and save for the SAS. Don't waste money on something that is not really going to give you better performance. All bigger tires with a IFS lift are going to do for you is give you a aprox. 1 in. higer ground clearence and make it easier to break parts. (However, it will look cool on the street.)

Have you considered a locker in the rear? It will take you farther in the woods now, without spending money on the IFS.

Just a thought.
 

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If the only thing that you are really trying to do is to get 33's on your truck, spend less than $100 and put a 3in. body lift on. A lot of people don't really like the looks of the body lift, but you will be able to fit the tires and won't rub. IMHO Why spend a bunch of money on an IFS lift that you will end up scrapping in favor of a SAS in the future. Do it right the first time and save yourself some $$$$. <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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if all you want to do is get 33s under there, just crank the torsion bars an inch or so, pound the fenderwell seam flat and they'll fit. granted, they'll rub a little <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> but save your $$$ and do an SAS. here's a pic of my old rig with IFS and 33's w/ NO lift.

<IMG width=640 height=480 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/Joshc5.jpg">
 

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I'd recommend putting on a Superlift 4" kit since it has the one-piece drop brackets for strength and then adding a Rockstomper IFS Travel Kit.

Also get some good flexy rear springs.

This should get you what you want.

More height doesn't mean more travel. Don't crank the t-bars if you want decent travel. Disconnect your sway bar.

IFS isn't the end of the world. It will still get you where you want to go 95% of the time. A SAS isn't the best for high-speed stuff anyway.
Check out my web page for IFS info if you want.

[ 09-27-2001: Message edited by: The Beeb ]
 

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If you're into the high speed stuff. Stay away from the solid axle, I live in SoCal, prerunner land, in high speed situations, less unsprung weight, stiff springs, and lots of travel is better. In low speed articulating situations, well I could write a lot more than you probably want to read on why the solid axle is better.

So, I have a 4" Trailmaster lift on my 89 4runner. I made my own "travel" kit with some 2" aluminum stock. That combined with low pro extension stops is giving me about 12" of travel, 9 up 3 down. I can tell you that when going to and from the trail, my solid axle frieds just can't keep the pace I can. Of course the opposite is true on the trail.

I would actually recommend the Superlift kit, after seeing it I think it is stronger than my TM. The Procomp stage 2 is hard to modify for more travel, takes some cutting and welding. The others are easy.

If you get an IFS kit, you'll need rims with less backspacing than stock, I think 3.5" is max. If you modify it for more travel, you'll need spacers for the upper ball joints. Rockstomper.com can hook you up with those as well as the whole travel kit if you don't want to make your own.

Also, with the IFS kit, rear flex only becomes more critical in articulating situations. Spend the dough on some good springs and long shocks. I have skyjacker 4" and the longest Rancho 9k's 4wheel parts listed, I wish I had a little more lift, but the flex is good. There are other good brands, Alcan, etc... I'd stay away from North West Off Road, I've never heard a good thing about their springs, or service.. or anythign now that I think of it.

I've done a lot of experimenting with my torsion bars. What I've found to work best on my rig is the 9" up, 3" down setup. This way you aren't hitting the cross members nearly as much and since the suspension is really quite stiff in stock form, you aren't loosing articulated travel. Of course another benefit is the ability to soak up hard impacts at speed if you so desire. I wheel my truck mostly on trails that would benefit from SAS but this set up gets the job done a lot better than she did when stock.

Frank.
 

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Originally posted by Wrench:
<STRONG>I guess a SAS is not the perfect set up for all situations.</STRONG>
like what?
if wanna ride smooth how about a 2wheel drive? seriously go with a 2 wheel with ifs and then got less to break, if you have the speed then you dont really need the fronts to be pulling
 
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