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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, i cant seem to find anyone or any info on the net about how to swap out all the IFS junk for a Solid Axle. I know you just hack all the IFS crap off and place hangers etc. but im lookin for a detailed description of what to do.
I got a 93 FS Blazer thats gonna be runnin 44's so a corp.14 bolt rear and a dana 70 frnt is awaiting and will hold
If anyone could help me out or point me in the right direction that would be great.
Thanx~ Chase

Also, any suggestion on the most effective yet relatively cheap lockers would also help out~ Hit me back.
 

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Just do a search there's lots of info out here on it. You're right about hacking all the IFS stuff out, I just got done with mine a couple months ago and I used Off Road Unlimited's kit. You basically cut all the junk off then install their kit, it came with pretty good instructions and went together really pretty easily. You might try to find a right-angle drill to make drilling in the frame a little easier. To clear 44's you're going to have to run some big azz springs and hack the fenders up pretty good. I have 10" springs in the front and still rub with 39.5's, but I'm working on that.

Good luck with the project, if you have more questions or want some pics of my buildup just let me know.
 

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The late model FS Blazer-post '91 (Tahoe) is a rarity, when badged as Blazer. You may want to consider hacking up a different truck. My .02

John
 

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You can fit 44's on about 7" of lift with a bit of axle re-positioning and general use of the plas cutter and sawzall:D

But yeah, cut off IFS junk, bolt on ORU kit, hang springs, hang axle, hook up steering and brakes, put tires on, stand back, realize you lifted it too tall for any practical use, then your done.

Closed or open knuckle d70?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
axle repositioning?¿

44 with only 7"lift? I want to have some fender...left...
Please explain what you mean with repositioning the axle? Is that for more of a professional cause wont it mess with my drive shaft lenth and what not? Am i gonna have to cut and re weld the knuckles b/c of the drivetrain angle?

Also, I noticed the ORU kit before and thought it was a good deal. Is their nothing else out their, or is the ORU kit pretty much the best bang for my buck? After all, it does give me everything i will need.
And the IFS swap they show on their website is done to a superduty ford, is IFS swapping pretty much cutting the same junk off my Chev?

Another big Q! Is a ford D70 high pinion worth the extra$$~ I mean its more than double for any other D70.
 

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Woh slow down there...

There is no article about swapping a solid axle under a super duty on ORU's site... Or for any site, Super Duties have solid axles stock. Both articles on ORU's site are done on chevy's.

By axle repositioning I mean moving it forward. Yes it will mess with your driveshaft but whats it matter? You have to have yours mofied or a new one made anyway for the solid axle swap.

ORU kit is the best bang for your buck by far.

HP D70 out of a ford? Thats a new one on me, don't think I have ever seen or heard of one... And HP 60 on the other hand is worth the extra money over an LP chevy to me. But, your truck has a drivers drop t-case which needs the ford axle due to the GM and Dodges having pass. side pumpkins. But if you want to swap t-cases it won't matter.

44.5" on 7" of lift:



No they are not mounted yet and there will be about 2" more room above the tire since the axle will move up to the centerline of the tire but you can kind of get the idea. I need to move my front axle forward about 2-4 more inches and hack the poop out of the sheetmetal.
 

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Looks like you will have to reduce the turning radius quite a bit for those tires to fully clear when there on. How are you going about moving the axle forward another 4"? redo the brackets or are you going to 4 link the front? Thats going to be one big ass axle breakin truck when its done. Are you doing a doubler or anything else to reduce gearing?
 

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Custom built by me doubler waiting to go in, Superior 35 spline inners and outers for the 60 and superior shafts for the 14 bolt.

Getting custom springs from Alcan for the front with center pins moved forward. Soon enough it will be linked but I'm doing the rear first...

Why would it reduce turn radius? Just cut everything in the way of the tire and it's set... I have to completely rebuild the firewall, do some frame mods, build a new front bumper, and basically hack most of the front fenders off but it will work.
 

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willyswanter said:

Why would it reduce turn radius? Just cut everything in the way of the tire and it's set... I have to completely rebuild the firewall, do some frame mods, build a new front bumper, and basically hack most of the front fenders off but it will work.
Thats pretty much what I was trying to imply, that your probably going to have to heavily modify some areas to allow full turning. Fenders aren't much of a problem but it looks like you might have some good interference at the frame both in front and in back of the tire. When are you going to be putting the tires on? I'd definitely like to see some pics of the buildup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Drive Train

Thanx for the info Swanter! sorry bout the mix up with the D70 hp and what not. I got info coming outta my arse. Tranny guy tellin me this, dad tellin me that, mates saying the know this... and soo the cycle begins.
AXLES- Anyway, on to more q's. If, in most likely hood, i am unable to get a hold of an HP D60, what kind of troubles and solutions am I looking at? It'll have to be a Chevs then cause i need the driver side drive correct? Do all D60's or axles for that matter come in both open and closed knuckle format? I was told the closed is bad cause it reduces steering radius, true? and that the closed was also old, period? Is open the best option?
Gearing- Lockers? best bang for buck? Dont most FS Chevs run 4:10 frnt and 4:11 rear or do they have to be exactly the same. I know it sounds stupid but I think i read it in 4wheeler on a bogger. How difficult is it gonna be to match both the axles or am i gonna have to buy matching gears for one of the axles and if so,which one?

Will I have to tilt the axle, and reweld the knuckles or what...
This is my first real project truck- I had a FS 84 Bronco but sold it b/c of the IFS. I just bought this one like a month ago because i got a killer deal and wanted to start now. Being a plastics engineer makin $14/hr minus rent means little by little with everyones info Ill turn this puppy into a beast....hopefully...
 

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Ok, Chevy axles are a passenger side diff axle. Ford are Drivers side. Your truck has a transfer case in it that has a drivers side drop on it thus you will need a Ford axle. Unless you plan on changing out to an older transfer case from a Chevy. A pre-1991 np241 should bolt right up.

On gearing, you want both gears to be the same, 4.10 and 4.11 are close enough to not matter that much but they should be the same. Your going to want to re-gear both axles anyway depending on what tire size you plan on running. If you want 44's you want at minimum 5.13's in front and rear...

For the best bang for your buck lockers you would want a plain detroit locker. Best thing since sliced bread.

As far as cutting and turning the front axle, how much lift do you plan on running? If your keeping it low, like under 8" of lift, you should be fine as far as your front axle, especially if you go with a high pinion ford axle. I run 7" of total lift with a 1979 Ford High Pinion Dana 60 front and my front shaft is almost flat at ride height. Where with a low pinion chevy axle it would be pretty steep and require a cv shaft and probably cutting and turning of the knuckles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
coming together

allrighty... Fluked out today and followed and pulled over a guy with my exact year truck with the exact lift and alterations im wanting to do. Got a lot of info too.
I just found a old Ford with both axles i want~ HpD60 and D70 rear. So axle finding is solved. Now this guy~Kyle~ custom fabricated his own hangers etc and it works beautifully. Im gonna go and get the measurements and have my buddy weld me up one(everything was gusseted for strength). He suggested as you did to run ford front and rear~thats what im gonna do. He didnt have to change the transfer case and was running 38.5 no problem (will it be affected if i run bigger tires?) Im assuming the NP241 is better than an NP205(I always read bout those in the mags)?~wut do the # mean?
My buddy as you did said i would definately wanna run i think he said 5.46 gears? Which i think would still be allright b/c i got the 4 speed overdrive, could i still do freeway speed? (and it would rev much higher if i ever ran, say 40")
As for lift, Kyle also made all his spring perches so I wont need that ORU kit. Saved a little coin there. He did however have to buy his own springs. He was running what i want to~ 12"frnt and 13" rear. Is their any truck with proper lenth springs, or do i just have to locate the perches relative to the length of the springs? I forgot to ask him if he had to reset the knuckles? Do you think so?
He also suggested the Ford rear axle over the corp b/c of the width. Chevy being narrower than his front HPD60 and b/c of where the spring ran over the axle, he was forced to ditch the drums and rund discs; however, dont I obviously want to run rear discs for such big rubbers? I mean, drums eat shit in the mud anyway.
I also never realised how much of an angle the springs sit on b/c of the location of the perches and the shape of the frame. Bizzare how they are angle?
Thanks again for all the info~lil dogs getting outta the cage.
 

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Are you sure the ford has a 70 rear? Most run 60's front and rear... And what year is it? It really needs to be a 78 or 79 because the 80 and later dana 60 fronts have a 36.5" spring pad center to center width and any tire over about 35" will hit them when turning...

I still like the corp. 14 bolt better than the dana 70 rears and you can get a "van width" 14 bolt that is the same width as the 60 front to take care of the width problems.

If you use the ORU kit you can use any front springs from 73-91 solid axle chevy trucks, blazers, suburbans, etc.

So why do you want to run sooo much lift? If your only wanting to run 40's you only need about a 5" spring since the brackets add 3" by themselves... I run 4" springs and 39.50's... 12" springs are going to be extremely stiff and basically good for nothing other than making your truck ride like a brick.

Your transfer case should be fine, it should be the 241. It's not the strongest t-case but it doesn't sound like your going to be getting into anything hardcore with the truck so I don't think it's an issue.

The 205 is a much stronger transfer case than your 241 but your 241 has a lower low range but again, if all your doing is daily driving and mud you won't exactly need it.

Yes you want discs over the drums but the 1 ton drums do a pretty good job of stopping 40's. I can lock mine up any time I want.

With 12" of lift you will most likely need to cut and turn the knuckles to get your caster back where it's supposed to be. But you can't point the pinion up too far without getting into some serious pinion oiling problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Lift

Just a quick correction on the lift #'s. He was running 12+13 total. so minus 3"frnt and rear and plus 2" blocks on the rear. So he was only running 9" springs onthe front and 8" on the rear. The reason for such alift is theirs not much crawlin in my area but lots of 5' plus bogs and river runs~ I do a little trail here and their but if i wanted a trail truck i would have chosen a lil jeep or something.
Although, if i can slap in a 7" lift, then it'll be a better all round rig so thats more applicable, im just trying to do as little damage to the actual body of the truck as possible, I know ill be cutting the fenders for turning radius but the less the better. I figured, with enough lift i wont have to touch the fenders as much, but then like you said, i lose mobility.
Since youve done it allready, did you buy new springs or is their another truck that'll have some that will fit. Or is it, that if i want articulation im gonna have to buy custom springs? so, knowing what ill be driving through, how much a lift do you recommend?
Thanx~ Chase
 

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Well I don't go near mud unless I absolutely have to so I cannot really comment on how much lift is needed for it...

You mention articulation though, articulation will be 0 if your running 10" springs or so... Basically a 6" spring is about the max and still have any kind of flex and/or ride quality.

I run modified BDS front springs, 8" pack with leaves removed down to about a 4" spring. They actually give me 3.5" of lift total. Very soft and flexy.



Still have about 4 more inches of droop on the pass. side...

All I run is nice flexy trails and rocks so I have no real experience in building for mud...
 

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I know its off topic but masher, do you have any pics of your truck? I really am curious how teh 10" springs look. Fender measurements? Im going to do the swap and cant decide between 8 and 10" springs.
 

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Here is a picture of my 8" skyjackers springs flexing. Not great but they work. I would try to stay below 8" springs in the front. Here is another picture of the distance the tire( 38.5 tsl's on 16.5x12 4 5/8" bs, measure 36.5" on the truck) comes to hitting the fender. This is with about 3" of sheetmetal cut back and running ~12" of lift up front. I've solved all the tire rub by cutting pretty much to the door. There are some rare cases where the tires make contact but thats only when the front end gets air and the tires are turned. The only place the tires rub now is where the frame starts to curve outward, this is just at full steer with the suspension compressed and its minimal. I don't run any type of bumpstop though I probably should.
 

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DarkE,

Here is a link to my webshots, you can see the buildup and a few action shots.

http://community.webshots.com/user/masher214

Some quick specs:

1996 GMC 1500
14FF 5.13 Detroit w/Discs
1979 HP Dana 60 5.13 Detroit
10" Superlift Front Springs
5.5" Skyjacker rear springs
Echobit Shackle Flip
ORU SFA kit and Crossover Steering
******* Ram
39.5 TSL's on 15x10 Wheels

If you have any questions or need any more help or advice let me know I'll be glad to help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
14FF or D70 rear?

Try'n to pik up a 78 1 ton 4x4 with Hp and D70 rear, but if i cant, which is best to run in the rear? 14 bolts are really common or should i stick with the fords?
 
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