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We have designed and built a couple of dry sump systems in our shop and an ih wouldn't be that hard to do. But like tom said the $600 and up pumps are what have stopped me, along with the fact that the benefit is not that great.

Tom here is the bbc exhaust gasket on top of the Ih head.

Thank you VERY MUCH.

Now that, gentlemen, is a thing of beauty.

So, tell me why this is a bad idea.

I see that the ports match up with the IH ports *exactly on center* (which is better than Stan's, BTW.. he's off a little).

The Chevy ports are larger (duh), but that works to our advantage.

So, two thoughts.

1) bolt Chevy headers up, re-drill, done. That is, if the header was built to allow us to drill the right spots, and if the Chevy headers clear the frame rails (that's the next big issue, BTW)

2) bolt up the IH flange, port match it, and then cut the BBC flange off and replace with IH. If the step is too great, then just weld the IH flange to the BBC flange - heck, in many ways, that's so much easier if you can sacrifice the extra 3/8" since you don't have to weld any thin wall tube.

There is a theory that the exhaust manifold/header should be larger than the port - the "step" acts to help prevent reversion.

I don't know at what point that step gets too big - that rat gasket is a good bit bigger.

In fact, you'd almost have to double up the flanges, since it looks like the gasket might be bigger than the outside dimensions of the port casting in places!

VERY promising, though.

Now to find someone with a stack of BBC headers and see what might fit where.

Y'know, at the worst, I could probably find some big-block tractor-pull headers and run 'em out through the hood. :D
 

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I think the easiest and cheapest way would be to have a cast gear put onto the steel cam......Is there a roller lifter available that will fit a IH block?....What about the rest of the valvetrain? What can the rockers handle?
Yes and yes, I think.

At this point, I'll claim it's a slam dunk and easy to bush the IH block to take "any" off the shelf roller lifter.

The "SOB" guys bush their lifter bores to a) straighten shoddy castings or b) reduce oil flow (or c) use another lifter)

The OD of the lifter bore bushings on the market are a few thousands off from what IH spec'd our lifter bores to be. Simple job to install them (or turn them down slightly and install) into the IH block, and now you have your choice of Chevy, Ford, or Mopar lifters to run.

Custom length pushrods are easy.

If you're worried the rockers won't take it, there are the Murphy Machine aluminum roller-tip units. For most things, that would take care of it, but if it doesn't, there's always the Harland Sharp re-fit like Dave Sr. did.

Too bad davesr isn't around any more. That guy had all the answers and, in hind sight, was just a little bit too far ahead of the curve. He used to have all the roller valve train parts.
Dave is around, he's just moved on from building his own IH. He gave me the quote on the steel camshaft blank.

He also convinced me (with Greg H.) that a cast iron camshaft isn't going to cut it.

Dave didn't offer up any new information about fitting 454 heads to the IH block - I suspect that project won't be resurrected by Dave.
 

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Discussion Starter #183 (Edited)
Tom I will be ordering a set next week, I'll post up for you. These are the ones I thinking will work for me, I want to run the pipes just under the door at the cab floor. I have the cab channeled so these should fit nicely along the bottom. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PTE-H8031/?rtype=10

By the way if you run them out the hood, you will never hear your fancy race radio :flipoff2:

And when I talked to Tim M earlier today he was making some noise about casting some aluminum heads for a 392, ya know must be nice to have Doctor resources. He and his dad have a cash of oem parts and order in bulk.
 

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So a cam question

so since the 7.3 IDI in my ford has roller lifters (and uses the same lifters as the 6.9 and GM 5.7, 6.2, 6.5 diesel) that means the cam must be a steel cam?



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So a cam question

so since the 7.3 IDI in my ford has roller lifters (and uses the same lifters as the 6.9 and GM 5.7, 6.2, 6.5 diesel) that means the cam must be a steel cam?
Yes it must be but it would be a huge coincidence if it were right for a IH gas engine. It would have to be the right length overall, correct spacing between the lobes, correct diameter of the cam bearings, etc. Do some measuring and find out.:smokin:
This brings up another thing. Someone tell me here, does a IH cam have a retaining plate? If not Tom is also going to have to come up with a cam button assembly to work.
 

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Yes it must be but it would be a huge coincidence if it were right for a IH gas engine. It would have to be the right length overall, correct spacing between the lobes, correct diameter of the cam bearings, etc. Do some measuring and find out.:smokin:
This brings up another thing. Someone tell me here, does a IH cam have a retaining plate? If not Tom is also going to have to come up with a cam button assembly to work.
It should be longer, the 6.9/7.3 were based off the MV series of engine, not the SV, so I highly doubt it will be anywhere close.
 

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This brings up another thing. Someone tell me here, does a IH cam have a retaining plate?/QUOTE]

Yes

As for the cam i think we are just going to have to suck it up and buy the blanks.

Edit: Tom does that blank come with the keyway in the front and the distributor drive gear cut already?
 

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This brings up another thing. Someone tell me here, does a IH cam have a retaining plate?/QUOTE]

Yes

As for the cam i think we are just going to have to suck it up and buy the blanks.

Edit: Tom does that blank come with the keyway in the front and the distributor drive gear cut already?
Hmm.. Dave didn't say.

What happens to Cast Iron when you run a Hardened steel roller over
it, is it will (Flake up). Just really messing up the cam surface. Steel
won't do this. I have made steel cam (Blanks) for Charles at Camcraft
Cams for Tractors. I could do the same for any motor. You would have to
check with Charles for the finished price. The price just for the Steel
Cam Blank from me is $550.00
The advice I'm getting is I should probably focus on getting the adjustable roller-tip rockers from Murphy's, solid lifters, and a custom grind flat-tappet camshaft and call it good.
 

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Found a set of BBC headers on Craigslist for $25.

Chatted with Ditchrunner about it for a bit tonight, and tomorrow he'll be running them down (they're 100 miles away from me).

For $25 I can find out how this particular set wants to sit in the chassis, and if it fails I'll either a) resell or b) donate them to someone else that needs them in exchange for a favor. :D

 

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Found a set of BBC headers on Craigslist for $25.

Chatted with Ditchrunner about it for a bit tonight, and tomorrow he'll be running them down (they're 100 miles away from me).

For $25 I can find out how this particular set wants to sit in the chassis, and if it fails I'll either a) resell or b) donate them to someone else that needs them in exchange for a favor. :D

Sweet find, way to go Tom.
 

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Could a cast cam be cryo'd and heat treated? would that help out?
Even if it would work are there any cast IH blanks available? You can't reground a flat tappet cam to be a roller because it's already too far ground.....

I don't know for sure but I don't think it would work. I know I wouldn't bet a set of $400 hydaulic roller lifters on it.
 

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What fun is that?:shaking: Be a trend setter...be the first!!:grinpimp:
I was just sitting around wondering "OK, so if I opted for the roller lifters, dry sump, crank fire ignition.. how many more months does that push out this project just from a budget perspective".. and it likely means another year helping my friends in the pits.

I have a few firsts behind me already - now I need to spend my money (and more so, my time) more wisely. ;)

Even if it would work are there any cast IH blanks available? You can't reground a flat tappet cam to be a roller because it's already too far ground.....

I don't know for sure but I don't think it would work. I know I wouldn't bet a set of $400 hydaulic roller lifters on it.
Cast iron camshaft blanks are what everyone else is using to make Scout II camshafts. They are readily available.

It's the steel ones that would be a one-off.

$400 lifters are only part of it, of course. There's also the iron flakes of the failing camshaft mixing in with the oil and doing who-knows-what, which means the whole rebuild ($3k or better without worrying about the roller stuff) is in jeopardy - and that's not counting what/where the cam/engine actually fails.. say, after you hauled it a few thousand miles to a big race with a couple thousand dollar entry and there's only a few miles left to the finish line.

That's when it would fail. :D

Either that, or right in front of the TV crew. Take your pick.
 

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more on exhaust.....If a guy built his own headers, whats a good tube diameter? Assuming the heads have been ported and its a mildly built engine... Also, what size would be appropriate for the rest of the system? Both headers fed into a single 3" be adequate?
I think you don't need to worry about going much larger than the square exhaust ports for the tubes coming off the head.

As to the exhaust, all of the stockers are 2.25", and on a Scout II you're encouraged to stick with 2.25" thanks to the transfercase.

However, on a Travelette, I don't know that it's an issue.

I have Stan's headers on my T'ette. They end in a ball collector Stan provided. It might have ended in 2.5", though it's been quite a while.

I certainly don't think a 3" is necessary.

Here's another tip - put the mufflers as far back as you can (on my Travelette with 166" wheelbase, that isn't difficult!). The farther away from the engine, the more the exhaust gets a chance to cool before it hits the mufflers.

Cooler air = denser/less volume = less muffler needed (or less negative impact from the muffler)

So install a 2.5" muffler 12' back, instead of a 3" muffler 6' back. (I made up those distances, so don't take that as gospel).

That's my take, and it seems to be working just fine.
 

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On my Travelette I want to build or buy a set of BBC headers, run a short piece of tube under the oil pan to from pasenger side to meet the drivers side, and then run out a single 3" all the way out the drivers side. 2 chamber flowmaster WAYYYYY at the back. That was the exact set up I had on my Scout II and it worked very well. Sounded good too.

That way I'm clear of the T case, starter, etc...

And I liked your blazer fuel tank idea we talked about, so I'll be running that as well.
 
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