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I remember a few years ago on the binder bulletin there was a guy with a old red IH pickup that he built up a custom 392 for and used it to do tractor pulls/competitions.
I believe that would be Davesr.
 

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I guess I need to call and bug the machine shop more often - they keep forgetting about the IH block in the corner when I don't call for updates.

Now it's back on me - they (correctly) want the main bearing caps so they can do the line hone before the boring.

Usually I wouldn't bother line-honing an IH, but since I'd already scrapped the bearing caps for this engine (but the block sonic-tested the way we wanted to) it's a necessary evil (the block was supposed to go to the scrap man, too, but was too heavy to lift at the time)

Now to get the caps pulled from the donor 304 (and the crank and rods if I can)..

In other news, I didn't get the full work up on the Jim Maulis Jr heads (for my project) but off the top of his head he remembered 195 or 198 cfm on the intake, and 176 on the exhaust.

My Comer 304 heads benched out at 178/132.
DaveSr's pull truck heads were 209/143.
72Scout's 345 heads were 190/164
and stock 392 heads are 196/136.

I guess that means the bigger 392 valves have some advantages (at least on the bench where they might not be shrouded) at least on the intake side - and that's before you break out the die grinder.

We'll see if the paperwork lives up to his memory's expectations now. :D

-Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Buck, I will be powder coating the frame in a satin black hammer tone, the engine and transmission will be IH red, and I am thinking the truck will be some form of IH red also. Thoughts are a silver metal flake with a candy IH red over the silver, and if that is the case I will be doing the block and tranny case the same way. Still up in the air about the truck color although it will need to work with the IH red. I don't like the idea of using red, yellow or black for the truck, I think its been way over done. But the truck is screaming red for me right now, I was thinking it would be cool in a gray or gun metal blue but I am thinking those colors my be to modern for the body. I am very open to ideas for color, a lot will have to do with how many restored Scout I can sell, that is the main way I am funding the Hot Rod:grinpimp:
 

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I like the red over silver idea.
 

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Jetfxr if you use an rpt like i did you wont have to use sheet metal, because there is enough meat to port to match the intake on those 392 heads.

If anyone wants the dimensions of the plate i will email them to you free of charge and then you can take them to your machinist and have the plate made. Deck the rpt, bolt in a spacer, and you have a blower manifold for an sv.
 

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IH engine tech

Robert, It's Jim Maulis. I like your new project, will it be finished by the Colorado show? I thought I would chime in on the late style 345 heads you picked up from me. As I remember they were milled .060, L88 chevy intake valves, FE427 exhaust valves. The valve springs were matched for a .500" plus cam that Scott at MPG heads ground for the heads. Scott did all the port and valve work . I have a factory IH race head that came off one of the Baja Scouts. The above heads flowed better than the IH race head, but can't remember the numbers. The stroked 392 we built used an offset ground 345-392 crank, Dodge 196 slant 6 rods (7.00" long) with the small end bushed for the chevy rist pin and stock 400 chevy forged pistons. This combo worked good, we removed about 20% of the rotating mass of the stock IH engine. The crankshaft grinder didn't like to see me come around, it takes a lot of time, and money to get the crank balanced. He ran out of places to drill out weight! The final size was 428 cu.in. , that was with a nonwelded crank. Always wanted to install eight sleeves and welded stroker crank for 450 plus cu.in. I always thought the limiting factor on any IH was the intake manifold. I once cut up a Edelbrock 500 cadillac manifold to fit the IH , but never tried it.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
64dumptruck, I have one of those manifolds but I am looking for a cleaner setup because I will not be using a hood.

Jim how do I get my head around all that tech at one look, I could spend a life time trying to do the motors you have done:D I am not sure if the truck will be done for RMIHR, I'm trying but it has been taking more cash than a spiteful woman. Hopeing to get it apart for powder coat and paint by May.

I have been doing frame up rebuilds on Scouts and selling them to fund my diseases. I have nearly completed the Aristocrat and we are starting a 79 Rallye this week. And by the way I am loving the Scoutallic its stupid fun, I will be finishing up the AC this week, had to order an evaporator from AZ Mobil Air, got it Friday so it will go in this week.

I'm looking forward to seeing your project, hows that coming ?

I am thinking about doing an electric conversion on a 61 Scout that I have in line for a restro mod.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
Chop is all done, hoping to starting taking it apart for powder coating and interior in the next couple weeks. Been working hard on the Scouts that will fund this project. I have a new order for a 79 Rallye, that will started this week, and found an IH dealer that needs an Aristocrat to look pimp in his showroom:D
 

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Engine build

Jetfxr, thanks for posting all of this about your wild project. I stumbled over it, and have enjoyed reading it all the way through. Will be checking back for updates.

I do have a question about more standard builds on a 304, and I have been looking all over the net at the usual places for an answer. I've read about the specifics of rebuilding an IH engine everywhere, but have never found anything written about is strategies for a build. Some ofthe contributors on this thread have gotten into why you woudl do this, or why that, and it has been great to see what the answers are, although there are gaps. In any event, I am interested in finding a write up or discussion about the pros and cons of what can be done to a 304, to give it slightly longer legs for running down our 75 mph freeways, while preserving it's legendary reliability and low end grunt. I am in Santa FE NM, and some of the machines shops in ABQ are certainly capable, but I'm not sure any of them are IH experts. In fact, I'm sure they're not.

Any advice from anyone will be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
 

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In any event, I am interested in finding a write up or discussion about the pros and cons of what can be done to a 304, to give it slightly longer legs for running down our 75 mph freeways, while preserving it's legendary reliability and low end grunt.
My 304:

lightened connecting rods and crank
polished rods
less-than-0-deck (pistons protrude about .020")
Lots of port work
Moderate cam.

With LS6 valve springs, it was good to 6300rpm at which point the valves floated.

With whatever go-fast valve springs the machine shop talked me into last time, it's now hobbled to about 5000rpm. :mad3:

I've held it at 6000+rpm for extended periods. That's 100mph neighborhood with 4.88s and 31s. With the 5k limit, I'm stuck at about 90mph.

I've been flogging this 304 for about 10 years now. Built and installed in 2000. I lost a rod bearing a few years later and bent a rod, then another time freshened it up just because, then two years ago lost a head gasket and rebuilt - got new valves and springs due to the valve float issue at that time, and now it's all together and ready for more abuse again (with a few more races since the last overhaul)

Might need punched out again at the next overhaul - the rings were hovering around max-gap when I put it together the last time.

..but I'm building a tall-deck SV with the same tricks, and the 345 heads Mr. Maulis mentioned earlier.

No replacement for displacement.

You might also find details on Terry Keuhl's race 304 in back issues of the Binder Bulletin. His engine (and Scout) is for sale.
 

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304 build

Thanks Tom. This may be a stupid question, but I have to ask anyway. How does one get to the back issues on the Binder Bulletin? Not much there these days.

Also, specifically in regard to using 345 heads on a 304, is the 345 intake manifold used as well, or is it a matter of modifying a 304 intake?

Is your engine bored over? How did you arrive at the less than 0 decked number for your block. This would raise the compression, so are there other things you need to do to deal with that? Change in timing, a specific cam, the valve spring changes you mentioned, etc.?
 

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Thanks Tom. This may be a stupid question, but I have to ask anyway. How does one get to the back issues on the Binder Bulletin? Not much there these days.
Dunno. I haven't looked into it for a while - but have a few hard copies in my files.

Also, specifically in regard to using 345 heads on a 304, is the 345 intake manifold used as well, or is it a matter of modifying a 304 intake?
Specifically, this is a bad idea for all but a half dozen people.

You can't use the 345 intake - it's too wide.

You shouldn't use the 304 intake - it has square ports instead of the rectangles needed for the 345 heads.

I know one set of heads, done by Terry Hankins in the IH skunkworks, where the 304 heads were ground, welded, and ground to fit a 345 with 345 intake.

For 345 heads on a 304, you'd either take so much meat out of the intake as to make it useless, or have to weld up the intake port on the 345 enough you should've just stuck with the 304 head - they're otherwise identical.

The only good choice is what Robert is doing - a one off, custom, sheetmetal intake.

And he was already doing one to mount the blower. Making it fit 345 heads on a 304 block is nothing at that point.

Is your engine bored over?
Yes, but at the same time, it's still standard bore.

How did you arrive at the less than 0 decked number for your block. This would raise the compression, so are there other things you need to do to deal with that? Change in timing, a specific cam, the valve spring changes you mentioned, etc.?
You deck the block, then you deck the block some more, and then go a bit more after that.

Then you have to mill the intake to mate up, because the "V" got so much narrower/shorter the intake won't fit.

.020 out of the deck helps contribute to the 10+:1 compression on the 304.

Nothing else NEEDS to be done. Head porting was done, and a higher-rpm cam and headers were used, too.

Valve spring changes were done to allow 6000+rpm operation, not directly related to the comrpession.

Timing is all mechanical, and set at about 20 or 25 BTDC IIRC at idle.

This is an engine and a Scout that, aside from several joy rides around town, only sees action on a race track - either straight line 100 yard drags, or door to door "baja" style racing on a closed course.

Thus, high compression, no vacuum advance, and so on.

It's the only hot-rod 304 I have though. The others are 345 and 392 based.

I originally used the 304 because a) I had one, b) I killed it while in Colorado, and conveniently left it behind at an engine builder while borrowing an engine to get home with and c) the shorter stroke was thought to be a better choice for high rpm and quick acceleration.

Putting the reciprocating assembly on a crash diet helps, and will also help the tall-deck SV that's going to make this 304 the backup mill. Throw in more cubes, and better flowing heads, and it should be a big improvement.
 
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