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So the 2004.5 HO is showing some age, a bit more blow by than I like.
Has anyone done an in frame ,down and dirty re-ring on these? rest of the rig is in great shape, I work alone and don't want to pull the whole mess.
Thoughts ?
 

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Everything I have read says no...

With how expensive parts are for this engine... I do not think I would want to half do it.
 

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I just recently split an injector on my 04.5 and roasted #6 cylinder rings. I talked to 3 different shops and none of them would even entertain the idea of a re-ring. I ended up spending $9000 on a full out of frame rebuild bored .020 over with new injectors, arp head studs an Edge CTS2 monitor and a new south bend clutch (that was close to needing replaced, so I had them do it.) Imho it was well worth the cost instead of paying the ridiculous prices for a new truck.

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It’s a 5.9. Pull it and do it right IMO. It’s so straight forward. I spent 10k on my 12v. Full rebuild. Balanced rotating assembly. .20 over stock. Head o-ring, and 500 rwhp when all is said and done. I will say my injectors are significantly cheaper, but if you’re staying stock, I would be surprised if you spent more than 5-6k on a rebuild.


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You have to lift the motor to get the pan out.

Pulling the head in body is a night.are. if its studed forget it.

Pull it out and do it right. Its a lot of heavy work but less of a fight a d strain.
 

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So the 2004.5 HO is showing some age, a bit more blow by than I like.
Has anyone done an in frame ,down and dirty re-ring on these? rest of the rig is in great shape, I work alone and don't want to pull the whole mess.
Thoughts ?
Diesel don't typically wear rings out, plus new rings require a hone not a back yard thing on a hand drill, thats caveman.
So even if you could rering you have not addressed what the problem is .

One needs to measure the cylinders, ring lands, or just start guessing and hoping.
Not worth it.
 

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Diesel don't typically wear rings out
That is incorrect. In fact, that is one of the main reasons to tear down and rebuild heavy diesels. Compression drops until power is significantly reduced or they won't start. There is a spec for blow by to prevent reaching a no start before rebuilding. Valves, too, wear, but the rings are a big part.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Diesel don't typically wear rings out, plus new rings require a hone not a back yard thing on a hand drill, thats caveman.
So even if you could rering you have not addressed what the problem is .

One needs to measure the cylinders, ring lands, or just start guessing and hoping.
Not worth it.[/QUOTE


I know the process , 33 year career as a machinist, my question was if anyone had done it. We re ring the big stuff all the time.

Ive built everything from 1200rpm generators to 9800 rpm sports car engines, The rest of this engine is sweet , my concern was the clearance issues in extracting the pistons then getting a Sunnen CK hone set in
 

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I’d just pull the motor, anytime something like that needs attention, I put the few extra hours to re-gasket. Hell of a lot easier on a stand.
 

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Diesel don't typically wear rings out, plus new rings require a hone not a back yard thing on a hand drill, thats caveman.
So even if you could rering you have not addressed what the problem is .

One needs to measure the cylinders, ring lands, or just start guessing and hoping.
Not worth it.
STFU noob. You have no idea wtf you are talking about.

OP, just pull the engine out. Its a PITA ass to get the oil pan off the engine with it in the truck. Even then, I don't think #5 and #6 piston and rod will come out between the block and the cowl...and thats after you remove a 200# cylinder head.

Just pull the engine and do it right. #6 for sure, and #1 probably needs bored and honed anyway.
 

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Those little green oil jets on top of the crank. Has anyone else seen these drop out or break? I suspect Ive got a second hand rebuild. As this block is missing three, but there is no way for them to walk out of there bores and past the main bearings.
 

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Those little green oil jets on top of the crank. Has anyone else seen these drop out or break? I suspect Ive got a second hand rebuild. As this block is missing three, but there is no way for them to walk out of there bores and past the main bearings.
Yep, I've seen them broken and missing all the time. There are companies out there that make news ones out of aluminum.
 

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#5&6 rod and piston can be brought out in truck. If you get creative ive gotten ball hones in 5 & 6 in truck. Cut stem down on hone in angle drill. Correct way to do it No but it can be done in a jam.

For a full rebuild just pull it out, doesnt take long
 

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I know this thread is nearing antique status, but I thought I'd leave something here. We have some Cummins 8.3 (C series) fire pumps at work. One of them was developing some serious blow-by, I'm talking WIND out of the draft tube. One guy said that he had seen that in the past on another one of them and a replacement turbo fixed it, another said that it was part of the Cummins troubleshooting to check the turbo when dealing with blow-by. The engine had no apparent lack of power, just filled the room with smoke from the tube when it ran. I was skeptical, but the turbo was indeed worn the hell out, so I replaced it. I'll be damned if the blow-by didn't go back to the normal light whiff of fog from the draft tube. That was a new one on me. The way I understand it, the boost escapes the compressor through the bearing and down the drain tube which pressurizes the crankcase. There is an actual procedure for checking this, if you care you can google it. Thought some on here would be interested in hearing something that may not be terribly common.
Travis..
 

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I know this thread is nearing antique status, but I thought I'd leave something here. We have some Cummins 8.3 (C series) fire pumps at work. One of them was developing some serious blow-by, I'm talking WIND out of the draft tube. One guy said that he had seen that in the past on another one of them and a replacement turbo fixed it, another said that it was part of the Cummins troubleshooting to check the turbo when dealing with blow-by. The engine had no apparent lack of power, just filled the room with smoke from the tube when it ran. I was skeptical, but the turbo was indeed worn the hell out, so I replaced it. I'll be damned if the blow-by didn't go back to the normal light whiff of fog from the draft tube. That was a new one on me. The way I understand it, the boost escapes the compressor through the bearing and down the drain tube which pressurizes the crankcase. There is an actual procedure for checking this, if you care you can google it. Thought some on here would be interested in hearing something that may not be terribly common.
Travis..
Never would have guessed that, lucky oil didn't start flowing from that bearing to the intake. Would've been a lot more than a little smoky in the shop, more like scattered parts and brown pants.
 

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Never would have guessed that, lucky oil didn't start flowing from that bearing to the intake. Would've been a lot more than a little smoky in the shop, more like scattered parts and brown pants.
I have experienced an engine that ran away on oil. The change in sound and exhaust smoke is very un-nerving.
Travis
 
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