That looks enticing. The key to going fast with articulation is a narrow center. The current go-to is the 9/10" Ford which puts the flanges about 14.5" apart. It is possible to reduce that to 13.5" with a little work and special parts. I am not sure where you will wind up??
For a number of years I used the Aluminum Model44 Corvette center which is machined similar to where you are going. The outer bearing is a wide roller bearing. I let the stub shaft plunge in that and the locker/differential. The plunge is about 1/4" and never had an issue with 3 builds. The center did not take any of the suspension load as per stock Corvette. That made it work. Flange to flange is about 17". Today, I am using a Quick Change and 7" Flange to flange and brings an easy 24" articulation.
I believe a couple make centers along the same lines as the 14 bolt, but not common in rigs as they are so wide.
I am currently building an IFS/IRS car but today I wouldn't go IRS without A-arms. It takes a lot of work with suspension geometry to keep the tire square or negative camber to the ground with our large amounts of body roll. Same with IFS... Unless you want to go fast, want precise steering, and a good skidding vehicle. All of that works best with a narrow center, and to allow turning and articulation. If 8-10 inches articulation is OK. You will have something beefy that the CV's might not take...unless 30 series @$1k each.
Wow that is a crazy truss system you built. Yes I have read about pre-heating prior to welding. Just makes me nervous welding so close to the main cap areas with the ears whacked off. I am just going to mount off the diff cover flange and pinion flange bolts. Plenty of beefy bolts to secure the housing with."and great mounting options for this route (without welding the casting)."
Don't worry about welding to the casting, it welds easily and reliably. It is nodular cast iron, not grey cast iron like an engine block. Pre heat it to 300 F, and keep it warm with fiberglass blanket, and just mig or tig right to it with regular steel filler. If I was cool enough to post pics, I would put up some of my 14b axle build with almost 10 years of racing on it. Edit: maybe this will work:
It also took me some time to re-find this. Normally General 4x4. Read up on geometry for your A-arms. Not an easy deal to get everything to clear. The needs are pretty clear for the outer knuckle/upright, but it is the inside hinge points that generate the geometry for most everything.I think I am just going to go a little wide on the A-Arms to help make-up for the wide diff housing.
are you planning on running pop in style stub shafts like a normal IFS diff or the bolt on bearing retainer like a semifloat axle? what bearings and seals are you planning on using? Very cool. I plan on doing something similar with a dana 44.
If you take a look at the first pic I posted behind the 14 bolts, there's a independent rear end out of a 60's Jag that uses a Dana 44 housing..are you planning on running pop in style stub shafts like a normal IFS diff or the bolt on bearing retainer like a semifloat axle? what bearings and seals are you planning on using? Very cool. I plan on doing something similar with a dana 44.