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Aren't older yota truck rotors flat? Had them on rockwell's, but it's been a few years
 

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Single or dual calipers? Smaller diameter rotor with dual calipers? If too much heat you could run dual rotors face to face?

Rockauto.com is your friend, great pictures, most parts have specs, they are also a vendor here and usually have a pirate discount
 

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I love this thread.

Early on in this thread concerning about cv shaft (or u-joints) operating angles and such...
One mentioned about to mount the center section in one of control arm (kinda like Ford’s TTB). So I got this idea, what about to mount the center section to BOTH control arms? Mounted via linkages to control arms. Basically as if the buggy jumps, in the air the center section will droops with control arms so cv shafts will not binds, or one side articulating over a rock which mean one tire is up high, other tire is down low, the center section will rotates.

I hope that make sense. Just an idea
 

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Lil Blue

I love this thread.

One mentioned about to mount the center section in one of control arm (kinda like Ford’s TTB). So I got this idea, what about to mount the center section to BOTH control arms? Mounted via linkages to control arms. Basically as if the buggy jumps, in the air the center section will droops with control arms so cv shafts will not binds, or one side articulating over a rock which mean one tire is up high, other tire is down low, the center section will rotates.

I hope that make sense. Just an idea
This should get your attention. Jeep worked on this many years ago and tried to get it commercial. It would be interesting to hear from some old Jeep engineers about this.

You never know when these guys show up. They run around pretty incognito. At a Jeepers Jamboree (early 80's), I think I was contacted with one as I had a IRS in my flatfender and he wanted to offer a IFS to me. (Thinking it was the wagon model) I balked because I had already had one in it and it failed for travel and tuning reasons. I explained that and he asked what I was going to do. I talked about the 4 bar SA set-up and the problems with that but hadn't a good solution but thought a three bar with panhard would work. A few years later they came out with the XJ. And much improved over where we were going at the time.

Have fun figuring this one out.

https://www.allpar.com/SUVs/lil-blue.html
 

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@ISDTBower

That’s a cool read! Thanks! Pretty much very similar to what I had in my mind, except in a buggy application with narrow center section like the OP is building. Obviously the major downfall are more complicated set up to design and build (and testing/trail & errors) and likely more maintenance whore.
 

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@ISDTBower

Obviously the major downfall are more complicated set up to design and build (and testing/trail & errors) and likely more maintenance whore.
I'm not sure which is more complicated between a portal and these solutions. All are trying to keep the diff out of the dirt.

Much of this has been seen in Pirate,just not in Chevy...and don't know how I got here either....but pretty neat as to what is going on. Posts like Trail Tamer make us rethink ideas.....

Shana Friese picture. Cheers!!
 

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One of the Gomez brothers has the diff basically on one of the control arms on his fully independent Ultra4 car
 

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I might be being :homer: but that makes no sense. Yes a solid disc will absorb and retain more heat energy compared a vented disc of the same size but a vented disc has more surface area which allows for quicker dissipation of that heat energy and if correctly drilled the airflow through the vents is increased, further increasing the ability to dissipate the heat build up. What am I missing?
Nothing. That is spot on. A vented rotor has less thermal mass than a solid one of the same dimensions but is so much better at shedding heat that it makes up for it.
No I am thinking clearly.. The part I may have not described thoroughly is the pinion brake "kits" that are available for the 14 bolt use a small OEM rotor from a Toyota Corolla-sized car. The rotor I am using is much larger in addition to being slotted and cross-drilled. Should be able to shed heat and perform well.
The vents or slots have nothing to do with heat dissipation. They are a place for gasses to go when brake pads get overheated and outgas.

The problem is that modern brake pads don’t really have a problem with outgassing. So holes and slots reduce surface area and have less mass to absorb heat. So there is no longer any real benefit to drilled/slotted rotors and there is some downside.


Awesome build, OP. I love to see badass ifs stuff built.
 

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The vents or slots have nothing to do with heat dissipation. They are a place for gasses to go when brake pads get overheated and outgas.

The problem is that modern brake pads don’t really have a problem with outgassing. So holes and slots reduce surface area and have less mass to absorb heat. So there is no longer any real benefit to drilled/slotted rotors and there is some downside.
I've heard this argument before. I have no data or studies to quote, but to say holes and vents reduce surface area is not correct. They may reduce "swept" surface area, but they increase overall surface area. Do you have any evidence to support they don't have anything to do with heat dissipation?

I mean, more surface area and airflow over a surface are proven facts to shedding heat. Now it may be possible that shedding happens to slow to be of any use. So I'm not saying you're wrong. But can you shed some light on how you know this? (Pun intended)
 

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I was under the current knowledge that "speed holes" and deep grooves opened up the possibilities for cracks. Especially vented rotors where it is very difficult to champhr the backside of the hole. Spidertrax used to make solid rotors look like swiss cheese, and made from the best steel...and stopped.

Anything but a crack.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
All are good points to consider. Yes, I too have read about the possibility of cracks forming specifically from cross-drilled rotors in extreme use cases. I also have read findings from Brembo that slotted rotors reduce brake "fade" by allowing the gasses to escape the pad/rotor surface. The good thing is, if the rotor develops stress cracks, I'll replace it.. Rotors are super cheap!! :)
 

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IMO the Gomez setup, or a TTB type makes the most sense....I really wish vetteboy would still update his TTB thread as it offered some real tech into this world.
 

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Discussion Starter #96 (Edited)
Bump. Any further progress?
Hey man sorry for the delay.. Been work'n my ass off trying to get the chassis shipped. Making a little progress.. Mostly parts and planning/drafting progress..

Got the 1480 yokes machined and fitted to the pinion flanges.. As you can see the rotor is just about in line with the bottom of housing.. Crossing my fingers that I can get the housing hiked up far enough into the chassis that rotor-->rock contact won't be a problem..






 

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Discussion Starter #97
Touched up the face of the pinion support on the lathe to be sure its square with the housing.. Came out pretty good I think..

 

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I don't have any tech to add but I love seeing your thread updated :D
 

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Cheers on moving on. Most plan on running a skid under the IRS center, so rocks shouldn't be a concern on mechanicals....BUT... I was reminded lately that a G-out in the rear really hurts as it transfers directly up your spine. A G-out in the front only throws you against your harness. A big difference.

On another similar note the rock bouncers have been complaining for years about going over backwards and landing on their roofs. The harness now cuts into their shoulders. Early into rock crawling, some of the drivers actually added sacrificial bars above the cage to absorb this situation. Learning.

Cool to see the little things that make a good build.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Holy Hell I finally got the new-old calipers cleaned up and ready for powder coating. I spent hours scrubbing and cleaning/de-greasing. I finally found the best solution for oxidation removal once the hydrocarbons were gone, is the
WD-40 brand rust removing soak. Let them soak overnight and they look great!! For those interested, I ended up not going with the Ford Raptor, not the Dodge Durango brakes I originally intended to use due to clearance/mounting conflicts. I couldn't have guessed I would end up using rotors intended for a 2007 Ford Focus, and calipers off a 1994 Toyota 4Runner. More pics to come.


 
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