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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Independent4x announces Build up of our new project truck!

Our 1993 Trooper RS..........dubbed simply the "Ultimate Trooper" will be an extensive build focusing on outfitting a Trooper to be an all out multi-purpose rig.

we will Highlight extensive tech on Drivetrain & Suspension Modification, Solid Axle Swap, Interior Modifications, etc.

SOOO.............lets start off with introducing you guys to the Donor Trooper ........... then Get onto the build.

as a stocker:

1993 2 door Trooper RS
3.2L DOHC V-6
MUA5 Manual Transmission
Gear driven integrated T-case
Isuzu 12 Bolt Rear 4.56
Isuzu 10 Bolt front IFS 4.56

as pictured: Our 1.5" Lift (OME 912's/ Rancho 9000's ) w/ 265/75r16 Firestone Destination MT's on 16x7 Rockcrawlers, Warn Hubs.....(otherwise Stock )
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ok...so, i took the truck to Uhwarrie NC weekend before last to "test" the built IFS rig one more time.

fun wheeling on 265's....... been a LONG time since i have wheeled little tiny tires.

i can assure you guys that with Lockers, t-case gears and our 3" lift you will have a blast:






 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·






so in the pics, the additions from above listed:

Extreme Duty Rear links
Sway Bar Disconnests
HD Tie Rods
New 2nd Gen Winch Bumper

So as the truck is......It is very a VERY Capable wheeler and can be daily driven on the street. This is the focus, keep those same qualities.

But, as with everything.....somehow you end up wanting MORE! Time to take this thing to the next level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
pulled the 93 (60.5") wide axle and swapped in a 1995 rear 12 bolt (63") rear

tear down on the 95 axle.............new brakes, swapping over my 5.38 w/ ARB rear 3rd:



rebuilt the rear e-brakes, and swapped on some Powerstop Rotors (made by Brembo) and the coresponding pads



with the axle housing stripped down, I made a model of a Plate differential guard.



so, once we have the paper version of the guard all worked out it is time to translate that into steel.

for this we used 1/4" plate, Mig welded it, and ground it.

for the 2 drain plugs i used 1.75 DOM to make recesses.





the guard Fully wraps the bottom of the housing

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
so we pretty much got the rear back together today.

New additions include Swayaway 2" Air Bumpstops in the rear in place of factory rubber. We used a pinch can style mount with some custom 1/8" gussets....Flared holes (dimple died) for added strength.


we cut out a strip of the factory bumpstop mount ...then welded the cans the full lenght of the frame and factory bump mount. pic below shows the gussets tacked in place.



with the swap of the 95 rear.....since it was from a 4 door truck, i now have roughly 1/3 longer e-brake cables. Flex will no longer be hampered by the e-brake.

i was able to route them up and over the upper link cross member. pretty cool.


here are some more shots, 1st, we extended the bumpstop pads so there are clean contact patches for the Air Bumps:



on the rear, i am running our OME 919's and 1" coil spacers. in the upper mount e added a "retainer cone" made of 1.75" DOM and welded in. On the Lower pad, we have new Coil retainers that bolt the coil to the mounts using a 3/4" bolt..............that can be seen in this photo:



here is the actual coil retainer set:



 

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nice roach.
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Looks bitchin matt :smokin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
for those not familliar with just how well the rear of these trucks will flex (once all the limiting factors are removed) check it



with the 265/75 i could tuck it way up:



the new larger tires will def. need more limited up travel...............as not to demo the body.......so thus the air bumps

overall the rear of these can be made to flex pretty incredibly.

the next Item on the list for this build is Wheel & Tire selection.

the current decision is to stick w/ a 35" tire. this is a perfect match for the 5.38's & factory 3.2L with this wheel base.

the proportions look good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
so i know how UBER popular the "snowflakes" are here .............and yeah, that is probably the coolest wheel Isuzu ever made.............BUT, the sizes and backspacing are no good for this project.




these cane in a 15" and a 16" version.............I want 17's and the wheels have to be beadlocks ....so giving a nod to the Isuzu smowflakes i decided to go in a little different direction.

we have been working with the Raceing side of KMC wheels for some time now and using there wheels with great success. KMC is a super highly respected name in Desert race and CORR racing and these wheels get the crap beat out of them on trophy trucks.

8.5" KMC Beadlocks, custom bored and drilled to 6 on 5.5 pattern, 4.5" backspace.




so for tires, we sellected the New BFG Mud Terrain KM2.............35 x 12.50 / 17. Very cool tire, with a street friendly nod to the big brother Krawler competition tire.



so.....we press the back bead over the rim shell, lay the outter ring on, hand tignten the 3/8" Grade 8 bolts intot the rim shell w/ blue Locktite.....and begin to torque them in sequence:



altenating "criss cross" pattern untill all are torqued to around 20 ft. lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
so w/ all the tires mounted.............of course we have to "mock" them up on the truck to take a look

(also in this pic.............we have pulled the front/rear bumpers, rocker cladding, mudflaps, and rolled Herculiner coating over the champagne accent color)



and from the 1st page (just as a reminder) here is the BEFORE :shaking::shaking::shaking:

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
so, obviously this stuff isn't free and people typically conveniently omit budget from their buildups. This leads to a general misconception of what these projects cost. We have people come into the shop all the time wanting to do axle swaps and other extensive projects with little or no frame of reference for what kind of budget they should be looking at. People often are only looking at the individual part prices, but rarely want to add it all up into a lump sum.

so when i bought this truck +/- 3 yrs ago, i think i paid right at $3k

lets lay down some rough prices up till now:

4 BFG KM2's @ $275.00 ea. = $1100.00
4 KMC Beadlock wheels @ $300.00 ea. = $1200.00
Swayaway air bumps @ $220.00 = $440.00
airbump cans (2) = $80.00
Indy4x extreme duty link set- 3 piece = $620.00
Indy4x braided brake line set - rear = $100.00
Powerstop rotors/pads - $115.00ea + $50 pads = $280.00
Gallon of Herculiner = $100.00
OME 919's = $170.00
1" coil spacers = $90.00
Indy4x coil retianers = $35.00


Rear Differential:
ARB Airlocker = $900.00
12 bolt 5.38 Gear = $250.00
Indy4x Master install kit = $200.00
Indy4x 12' Baided ARB airline = $85.00
_________________________________________

rough subtotal: $5650.00 Parts

also, not included:

purchase of the Rear 95 axle, sealants, misc. steel, fasteners, etc.


keep in mind this does not take into account any shipping / truck freight we paid on these parts, nor does it account for any Labor charges for shop time. this is just straight parts.

As you can see, it adds up quick we haven't even started the SAS, bumpers, sliders, interior, t-case gears, etc.

and of course just to remind everyone............We sell, service, & install everything featured in this build up.

periodically i will recap this and ammend it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
so......with the rear installed we bled the brakes yesterday and wheeled it out side to goof around flexing the rear to check out the new bump stops. we will really know if we got it right when we hit the trail, but so far so good.......we want as much up travel and to get it to tuck, but not crunch the body......




here youcan see the bumpstop working on the axle behind the wheel:



and plenty of down travel on the opposite side. you can also see how the retainers hold the coil in place as the weight is taken off:



in these new pics you can see that we cut the quarter panels behind the axle. there is a lot of metal in there

marked off:



cut off :flipoff2: :

 

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looks awesome matt. The 12 bolt front is badass!

I wonder if there'd be enough demand for a bare 12 bolt front housing. Maybe set up so the customer could cut/weld on their choice of dana 60 or toyota outers to make it cheaper and more universal? that'd be neat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
looks awesome matt. The 12 bolt front is badass!

I wonder if there'd be enough demand for a bare 12 bolt front housing. Maybe set up so the customer could cut/weld on their choice of dana 60 or toyota outers to make it cheaper and more universal? that'd be neat.
thanks...we have actually gotten quite a few inquiries about this front axle. There are a lot of possibilities.........everything from a housing to full turn key. Totally willing to entertain them all.........and yeah, price poit would vary w/ the customers specs. everyone who has come into the shop and seen it is like Holy Shit, that is pimpin' :grinpimp:

it took me about a year to makle the 1st one a reality
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
little more info on the rear mods

i am running an Upper Coil Guide. I welded an 8" piece of 1.75" D.O.M. tube into the upper bucket to keep the coil and spacer alligned.

here is a shot of it. (sorry for the blur, ony one i have):



next mod is the installation of the Revolution Low Transfer case Gears.



link to product:

https://id211.chi.us.securedata.net...chantmanager/product_info.php?products_id=232

this kit Makes a huge difference in overall offroad performance w/ a 50% reduction in the low range of the Isuzu Transfer case. Factory 2:1 is reduced to just over 3:1.

this makes stalling the truck offroad pretty damn hard.......so even w/ a 5 speed you can idle over most obsticles. Slow contrlo is where it's at
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
so the case is done......

the gears replace the Idler gear (center), the low range gear (lower right), and the shift rail.

on the Munaual trans (MUA5) the transfercase is integrated w/ the trans...........so we reccomend you that you pull the trans out to do this install. In this Build, i opted to install the gears in the truck for the sake of time. (plus i have done a ton of these)

pull the shafts, drain the oil, split the back half of the case off, pull all the bearings/gears.

here are the gears installed




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

the biggest issue w/ the istall on these is really figuring out the tools to pull the 3 bearings on the 3 clusters. also i would say just not being familiar w/ this type if work gets a lot of people.

you basically have to wrestle all of thes parts back into the case at one time, in the correct orientation, and with out making any mistakes. So keeping a very close eye on the parts, their order and placemant is critical. You just need a good block of time, a ton of patience, and some NINJA SKILL to move through it

all in all not bad




with the new Revolution Gears installed, we cleaned up the seal surfaces on the case and the back half, Prep wheeled both sides, used the Permatex Ultra Black supplied in thr kit and bolted it back together.




so, while we were finishing up the case we decided to start 86'n the IFS up

here it is............in all it's glory.....the lifted, modified IFS i was running in the RS:






Buh Bye :flipoff2::flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
so time for the SAS..... we are ditching the IFS in favor of custom front suspension & a live axle.

so in order to do this we unbolt some stuff, then cut out the rest. as far as these swaps go this is the real dirty work and is very time consuming. unbolt what we want to save, then start torching:





most of the stuff out of the way...........these brackets are a royal PITA to remove:



we torch as much as we can, then sawzall.........then grind away



so after several hours:



i had a little rust in the front crossmember............so after some discussion int he shop................we are going for something a little different on this RS........ :D

with the PS hardlines, Steering Box, and front body bolts removed.......a little more Sawzall:


:eek:





AND YES.................EVERY SAS Thread has to have this pic:



obligatory IFS pile o' shit :flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
ok so you are wondering:evil: what axle will we be using? :smokin::smokin:

ok, let's explain what this is, how it's made, & why it was made:





this is the outcome of over a year of planning an collaboration. the concept was to build a Hybrid steering axle from an isuzu rear 12 bolt factory axle. We have 5.38 gears, air lockers, & now our Aussie lockers....so i figured there was now a significant amount of product to support it.

originally i was going to do a D44/12 bolt hybrid, but the 12 bolt shafts are slightly larger and i figured if i were going to go for it it might as well be bullet proof!

Dana 60 parts are reknowed for strenght.....really THE largest, strongest, best supported light truck axle out there. On this rig w/ a 35" tire and 806x u-joints, i have nothing to worry about :lol:

to start i got a 88-91 rear leaf sprung housing (from a trooper), sandblasted it clean, and chopped the tubes off.






when building somthing like this the beauty of it is that you can build it exactly like you want. Any pinion angle, any caster (to a certian point), any width, etc.

after a ton of carful masurements i decided on a 64" WMS-WMS w/ a 10* pinion angle and about 8* of caster. Once the WMS is decided we can measure backward from there and decide where to cut for the short side. the long side is a little arbitrary...we decided on about 1/2 way tot he inner "C" (inner knuckle)

once the housing we chopped, we honed the inside of the tube to clean it an make sure it was round.



in order to make this work, we needed to make axle tubes that would sleeve into our prepped housing. The way to do this is to start w/ a large piece of material and "whittle" it down. to do this we used 3.00 x 0.50 wall D.O.M and nachined a series of "steps" into it

wanting a seamless final look meant we needed to I.D. of the inner D60 Knuckle - O.D. of the aftory 12 bolt tube - I.D. of th einside of the tube - then an inner tube seal to hod the oil in.

here is the result:



the inner end of the tube was then bored for the O.D. of the inner tube seal to be firmly pressed in


 
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