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Just getting back to reading all of the great info in this thread! My 98-04 SD 60 axle has been working great for the last 4-5 yrs. but with a set of new 42" Bias PitBulls I have gone through two 30spline stubs in less than a year with the last break taking out my 35spline inner, no surprise there. I am looking to upgrade to 35 spline outers and go to 8x6.5 bolt pattern but want to keep my current knuckles for now. I'm considering RCVs, but would consider staying with u-joints if there is something comparable..

Options that I've' found:


8x6.5 Unit Bearings
SpiderTrax Ultimate UBs, pro: slug built in, con: custom outer length?
Brannick UBs, pro: cost & option for lockout, con: needs slugs or lockouts. (Would I need that pia outer seal with this setup?)
Timken? Not sure if 8x6.5?

Drive Flange conversions? I don't know much about these.
 

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I've looked all through the thread and I'm not finding the answer. Has anyone setup an 05+ axle from a F250 to run factory 16's from a 99-04 truck? I have two of these axles bought but I've yet to go get them. I'm about to start work on swapping the stock 2wd suspension from my 04 F250 for the later model 4wd radius arm setup. I have brand new tires and I'd rather not have to buy new rims and tires for the truck.

I've seen a few h1 16.5 wheels fit with some grinding. I'm curious if a factory offset 16 is even remotely possible.

A further down the road question. I also bought a second axle for my 94 obs ford dually and I'd like to keep my 16's on it as well. I'm thinking once I convert it to DRW with an adapter, they shouldn't be too hard to make fit.

I only have one 05 up axle in the shop but it's already 8 on 6.5 so I can't test fit my wheels yet.

Just trying to make plans.
 

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Little transaxle buggy. Mainly just something to keep my mind occupied. It may never get finished which is why there will not be a build thread. Just thought this thread would like to see those knuckles on some 9" axles.
I'm thinking about doing the same on a jrat housing that I have had for a while. Won't be in use for a while but for a future project.
 

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I have a chance to pick up a matching front and rear out of a 2012 F350 6.2L gasser.

Will I run into any problems with this year, as in gearing options and lockers?

I will be running 5.38 and a ARB Detroit combo. If memory serves I should be good to go with the D60 however its the Sterling that may give me a problem?

I assume the Sterling should have the factory locker as well
 

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I have a chance to pick up a matching front and rear out of a 2012 F350 6.2L gasser.

Will I run into any problems with this year, as in gearing options and lockers?

I will be running 5.38 and a ARB Detroit combo. If memory serves I should be good to go with the D60 however its the Sterling that may give me a problem?

I assume the Sterling should have the factory locker as well
I don't have your answer, someone should. But I'm courious why you think the Sterling has a locker. I've not heard of a factory locker. Do you mean limited slip? I've heard of factory limited slips, but they are not standard. So you may or may not have one.
 

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I didn't know much about it so I just did some searching. Looks like a rear locking diff became available in 2011. That's extremely interesting...I had read about changes in 2011 multiple times, but I never knew exactly what was changing. Maybe this was one thing :D

One of the best options in the 2011 Super Duty is the addition the electronic locking rear differential for the first time that's similar to the GKN-supplied e-locker, which is available on the FX4 Off-Road package (and SVT Raptor). The "3.73 ELECTRONIC LOCKING AXLE." is $390.00 Option.

The e-locker has been designed by Ford and is manufactured at the Sterling Axle plant for single-rear-wheel F-Series Super Duty trucks only.

The locker is controlled with a factory dash switch. It's best used in low-friction scenarios, such as on slippery boat ramps or in slick mud and on icy roads. It will stays engaged until the truck reaches 30 mph, at which point it disengages until the truck's speed returns to 30 mph or less. The truck will also disengage the locker if it's making a tight radius turn by sensing the steering wheel position, so the rear wheels and tires aren't damaged from scrubbing on pavement. In summary it will get your truck out of that "Stuck When Plowing" situation that arises a few times a year! (Note: Some 2010 F-150's have this option, but for SuperDuty 2011 was the first year.

Lots of Chevrolet's have always had the "G80 Locking Differential", and until now Ford only offered the Limited Slip Differential. I have a 2009 F 250 V10 with a sterling 4:11 rear end. I have talked to engineers from both Ford and Eaton about adding an e-locker on my 2009 F 250, and to date both state the addition of an e-locker is a "No-Can-Do" in My 2009 with my current sterling rear end.

Ford's Electronic Locking Differential Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u0N88BMZplw&NR=1

E-Locker video #1:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=85-8IozvwVg

E-Locker video #2:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q-rQT...eature=related

Locker vs Limited Slip video #3:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-S2nD...eature=related

Chevrolet G80 - Limited Slip vs Locking Differential video #4:
Note: The new GM G80's deactivate at 18-20 mph, same as the Ford E-Locker!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k5DPoXWxDfk

I would love to have E-Locker's on on both the front and rear axles on my 2009 Super Duty, any assistance or suggestions please post!

Let's face it, most of our (40K-60K) 4X4 plow trucks are "Two-Wheel-Wonders" (One front wheel and one rear wheel drive power only). Any veteran on this site will tell you that 4X4's in the 1960's and 1970's were real 4-Wheel Drives! Snowplowing veterans on this board have no-doubt "Hung-up" on a snowbank at 3:00am, would it not be a pleasure to have power to all four wheels?
 

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Im sure the answer is in this thread but my eyes are bleeding from trying to find it.

So my question is....Im wanting to build a centered dana 70 rear steer axle on the cheap...I have a 70hd with 4" axle tubes. I want to use the 05-up SD C's out but they have a 3.75 ID on the C's....who is capable of cutting the bore on the SD stock C's to 4"? Is there a better option? Any reason the C's shouldnt be bored?
 

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I've looked all through the thread and I'm not finding the answer. Has anyone setup an 05+ axle from a F250 to run factory 16's from a 99-04 truck? I have two of these axles bought but I've yet to go get them. I'm about to start work on swapping the stock 2wd suspension from my 04 F250 for the later model 4wd radius arm setup. I have brand new tires and I'd rather not have to buy new rims and tires for the truck.

I've seen a few h1 16.5 wheels fit with some grinding. I'm curious if a factory offset 16 is even remotely possible.

A further down the road question. I also bought a second axle for my 94 obs ford dually and I'd like to keep my 16's on it as well. I'm thinking once I convert it to DRW with an adapter, they shouldn't be too hard to make fit.

I only have one 05 up axle in the shop but it's already 8 on 6.5 so I can't test fit my wheels yet.

Just trying to make plans.
I'm going to go with no.....
I swapped my e99 axles with 06 axles and kept my old 16.5" rims. They are american racing alum. rims if that matters. I ground my calipers a lot.....over a half hour on each front. They were fine for a bit but as the pad wears I can hear it self clearancing.
 
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