i just kicked a complete 08 for 850 cause i needed it out of my way, and a rear axle from a '10 for 500 bucks!
Just for comparrison, here is a similar pic of an 05' and up super 60 (f450/550):This.
I have always liked ball joints over king pins because of all the knuckle failures of the king pin axles. I can only think of 1 ball joint 60 failure that I have seen. Only drawback of BJ over KP is steering.
:smokin:dunno, they fetch 1000-1100 for a complete 05-up takeout at the yard, but , considering the inherient stregnth of the overall unit, it is a bargain. who cares about the wheel pattern anyways, any wheel i want i can get in metric pattern.. stay tuned for 05-up hi-steer stuff btw...
The aftermarket has been a little slow to catch up. No high steer available that I know of. I had a buddy mill my passenger knuckle and he made me a high steer arm. Also you can't run a straight tie rod if you attach it to the knuckle stock steering arms (above or below)- the diff is in the way. Only one company makes flanges and they're twice the price of "normal" 60 flanges. There's only like 1" of axle tube on the drivers side which means that unless you use the stock radius arm mounts cast into the diff, that you have to cut off the huge ass mounts and weld a bracket to the cast iron. I did it and have been DD'ing it for over a year, but it made me nervous as shit because I had never welded to cast. Also having the pumpkin so far to the drivers side can make packaging difficult with the front driveshaft. My driveshaft sits about 1/2" from the lower link on that side. I'm running the axle under an 01 chevy 1500. Anything with a narrower frame and the shaft may get into the frame at full bump.so these 2005-12 dana 60 have a hp,larger ring and pinion, bigger knuckles, and are fairly new (not as mistreated) plus not as expensive or sought after as earlier 60s. Whats not to like about them except for the metric lug?
See above. There is a little piece of axle tube on that side, so you could retube it. To narrow one, I would just take it all out of the passenger side. Then you can use a stock driver side shaft, and the pumpkin would be more centered.could it be narrowed like the other dana 60s? saying this because of the cast piece of steel in the driver side next to the pumpkin
I thought you could only use the 92-97 knuckles on the 99-04 axles, but I could be wrong.Another option for these axles is use the 92-97 Ford Ball Joint knuckles and you will get rid of the unit bearings and have the 8x6.5 bolt pattern. We have converted 3 axles so far using the knuckles out from those years.
Another option bolt pattern wise, Currie is redrilling the unit bearings and rotors on these to 8x6.5 pattern. I don't know the cost as we haven't had one done as of yet but a customer was telling me about it.
If you are content with unit bearings, ORU makes a high steer knuckle for the Super Duty axles that goes for $259.00. Most of the unit bearing failures are from high speed, dedicated trail rigs usually don't have those issues. The only people who will suffer with the unit bearings will be the rigs that pull double duty between trail and daily driving.
The ORU knuckle is massive and retarted at best. I had planned on one originally and actually bought it........then returned it. The relocated mount is stupid high and as far as Im concerned is only designed for big ghey trucks with 25" lifts.If you are content with unit bearings, ORU makes a high steer knuckle for the Super Duty axles that goes for $259.00. Derek
Im quite certain you are correct on years. Though the measurements may be the same, Im quite certain the balljoints are much larger and not compatable. I could be wrong tho....I thought you could only use the 92-97 knuckles on the 99-04 axles, but I could be wrong.
Also, why is everyone so intent on getting rid of the 8x170? Carry your own spare(s) and you'll never have an issue. Yeah wheels are a little harder to find, but it's less effort and money than swapping out everything and then re-converting to 35 spline outers.
ok so i have a 2001 super duty 60 and a sterling 10.5 rear. im not 100% sure of what it came out of (250,350, etc)...
Hey man just an FYI if your certain about the year of your front axle being an 01? it is not a dana 60 its a dana 50. Only way really to find out, pull your axle shaft and count the splines. Just looking at the axles externally you cannot tell the difference between the 50 and 60. its in the guts. the 50's are 30 spline. and the R&P are smaller.
Wrong. Theres tons of was to identify it without tearing it appart. First, theres a sticker on the lond side tube. In the corner it will either say 248 or 229. 248 is the measurment of the ring gear in milimieters. 248 mm=9.75 inches. Which is the diameter of a Dana 60 ring gear. You can also tell by the pinion nut. 1 5/16 is D60.....1 1/4 is D50. You can also tell by the diff itself. The 60 measures about an inch longer than a 50.Only way really to find out, pull your axle shaft and count the splines. Just looking at the axles externally you cannot tell the difference between the 50 and 60. its in the guts. the 50's are 30 spline. and the R&P are smaller.
Would you happen to still have the 10-lug adapters? And if so, are they for sale?Just for comparrison, here is a similar pic of an 05' and up super 60 (f450/550):
The Super60's are a little bigger in some area's than the regular 05' and up 60's. Here are a few more pics of a super60 that I am converting to 8 lug (metric):
Yes they do have 1550 ujoint's
These axles are very wide though. Even after converting it to single wheel 8 lug wheel hubs, it will still be about a 79 wms.