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rattle it tight enough to get good bearing preload, then stake the nut

standard procedure for doing a pinion seal is to reuse the same crush sleeve
Thanks. Got it done, got what I thought was about 15 in lbs bearing preload (apparently used bearings should be less than new of 20-25 anyway)... but on a whim after my first drive I felt the pinion snout and it was warmer than I'd expect. I was in 2wd but hubs locked.

Anyway I'm gonna just barely back off the (new) nut and see if it runs cooler.

This got me thinking I should replace the pinion seal on my '11.

Parts listings suggest the old school 60 seal of 42449 fits but the latest seal appears to be a 2009802.

I already have a 42449 sitting here from an old 60 install kit . Is there a compelling reason to order a 2009802?
Quoting myself....the 42449 fits fine. It's a bit harder to drive in than the flat-faced 2009802, but a block of wood worked for me.

I will say, the 2009802 has an internal cavity behind that pretty flat face, and mine was full of rusty crap. If you swamp your rig much I'd almost argue the older 42449 is a better choice.

I'd post a pic but I tired of being forced into a PP automatic payment (and then digging thru my PP acc to figure out how to turn it off) every year so I can't upload attachments anymore (which is fine)
 

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I would never back off a Pinion nut especially with a crush sleeve. Taking a big risk there. 10-15 is good for used bearings and they do run warmer than expected. just my opinion.
 

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Anyone running a stock sd60 with sticky 42s? What’s gonna break haha. Aside from my tcase probably giving up the ghost first, I’m thinking probably shafts before the diff or balljoints let go. Low power, gentle driver.


Water usage & Brand of 42’s will play into the fusible link equation, quite a bit.
 

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I would never back off a Pinion nut especially with a crush sleeve. Taking a big risk there. 10-15 is good for used bearings and they do run warmer than expected. just my opinion.
this
if you don't burn yourself, it's cool enough
run synth 75w90, thicker oils run hotter
 

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I am looking at narrowing my front SD60 to the same width as a C and C 14 bolt, 63" WMS to WMS. I want to keep the drivers side stock as there is little room there right now.

Is there a chart of axles that fit the inner length on this axle? I have seen it for older axles. I am just wondering if there is an OEM axle that would interchange.

Maybe I just need to buy new which is fine, or get one shortened.
If my searching is correct; the 05+ long side is 41 3/8" and WMS is ~72". To get to 63, you would want a ~32 3/8" inner.

The closest factory 35 spline inner would likely be 78-79 Ford at 34.5". That would give you ~65" wms.

The earlier fords had shorter long side, but aftermarket shafts seem to be non existent.
 

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fwiw youre gonna regret making that d60 63" wide if you ever go bigger tires, i made my 14b front 63" and when i went to 43" stickies it was too narrow, wish i had made it 67"
 

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If my searching is correct; the 05+ long side is 41 3/8" and WMS is ~72". To get to 63, you would want a ~32 3/8" inner.

The closest factory 35 spline inner would likely be 78-79 Ford at 34.5". That would give you ~65" wms.

The earlier fords had shorter long side, but aftermarket shafts seem to be non existent.
I run a 34.55" 78/79 F250 shaft and my front axle is 67.625" with no trimming to driver's side.
 

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I thank you all for your help. I hear you on the width thing. I just would like to keep it "sorta" street legal as far as width goes. I do like the idea of just getting a spare set of axles and not having custom stuff. It is for a build down the road so no hurry at this point.
 

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I thank you all for your help. I hear you on the width thing. I just would like to keep it "sorta" street legal as far as width goes. I do like the idea of just getting a spare set of axles and not having custom stuff. It is for a build down the road so no hurry at this point.
UD60 shafts are the same length as the 78-79 Ford, dirt cheap chromo 1550, and "people" keep them in stock. The new 1550 chromos in whatever custom length you want these same "people" have in stock for 05+ and can get in about 2 week lead time for custom.
 

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Just to clarify, as I am new to this model of axle:

1. What is a UD60? What application?

If I could buy new assembled shafts that were 1550 sized and a little shorter on the long side that would be sweet. I'd buy some spares and not worry about it.

Thank you for your input. That helps.
 

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Ok. I need to get to work but a quick search shows an assembled UD60 inner with 1550 joints etc. is $180 and 33.75.

That is probably as close as I am going to get, and it should get me down to 66" wide plus or minus.

Thank you so much. Now time for more research.
 

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Lots of pages of great information here!! I searched and could not find the answer i'm looking for.

My question: What is the weight difference between 99-04 and 05+?

Specifically if I build a 9" using only the inner knuckles out which would weigh more assuming everything inside the knuckles is exactly the same.
 

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fwiw i think around 2017 they changed the casting of the knuckles to reduce the amount of material used so they should be lighter

edit; they put a "window" in it

 

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Ok, I searched found this thread. It's way to long for my ADD self to wade through. Question I have is weather to spend the $1300 to upgrade to chromo 1550 shaft or stick with stock 1550 shaft and have money to go arb.

I'm biulding a bouncer type crawler buggy with 05 SD axles, mild 5.3l ls th400 4401 transfer, is there a need to upgrade to chromo shaft on the 05+ SD axles?

I've read we're guys running them have no issues with the bj axle breaking C or knuckles, once in a while might bend a balljoint, or break a stock hub but haven't heard much about shafts breaking unless there really abusing it. I'm hinged on buying a Rockwell but I've got this set I bought for a mud rig. I just want to spend my money wisely, and not throw a lot at this set just to regret I didn't go rockwell.
 
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