hope to get some pictures up soon of my 08 super 60 under my TJ. Took an insane amount of time cleaning off all of the extra weight. I cleaned it 100% of everything except the pumpkin. My good friend has been doing a lot of this build for me as I do the cleaning and grunt work! Built every bracket, truss, PCS brackets, used Weaver Fab knuckles with higher steer. I did cut the arm a bit and welded a double sheer to the top to strengthen it. ARB front and rear. I must admit,, so much time and effort into it. Since the axle was out and not a lot of room AT ALL, I went ahead and stretched the front out 6 1/2 inches. went with a Dodge 2500 MC (which is not a direct fit like so many people said). Just a few easy mods and it went in though.
Everything is tacked in and final welding is happening this week.
This isn't the place to discuss, but I get what you're saying. However, I will always prefer a lockout-hub break before a driveshaft joint. A joint goes anywhere (a-shaft, d-shaft) and it has the potential to not only end your day, but your season, etc. You're talking damage to inner shafts, knuckles and any number of parts around the driveshafts depending on how compact the rig is and which joint blows. Slow can have different effects, but still higher likelihood of unrepairable damage.Fuses in an axle assembly of this calibre are dumb. Wouldn't a 1310 joint on the driveshaft make more sense? Broke is broke and if you break, you're done.
Do you know how far off set the pinion is on the 05+ superduty axle? Lookimg to put one under my WJ but want to make sure the pinion wont be sitting under my unibody rail.Based on the shaft lengths, the pumpkin moves outboard less than an inch.
99-04 F250/350 SuperDuty 37.62/15.39"
86-97 F350 36.68/15.96"