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What is the feedback on the warns compared to the factory? Are the factory that bad? I was considering upgrading before Moab but it sure if it's that important. Vehicle in sig.
 

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Just by looking at the factory ones, they look to have a bunch of plastic bits and made of cheese pot metal.

I think I'd upgrade to the Warns and keep the stockers in the spare parts bin.
 

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Just by looking at the factory ones, they look to have a bunch of plastic bits and made of cheese pot metal.

I think I'd upgrade to the Warns and keep the stockers in the spare parts bin.
Just a note. All the part numbers from the factory locking hubs have a WARN prefix.
 

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Just a note. All the part numbers from the factory locking hubs have a WARN prefix.
They even say warn on them somewhere don't they?

I sold the set I had, but I was thinking they had warn stamped/etched somewhere.
 

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They even say warn on them somewhere don't they?

I sold the set I had, but I was thinking they had warn stamped/etched somewhere.
I was just looking through the part numbers on the F550 3D model that is floating around. Everything under the hub sub-assembly has a Warn prefix.
 

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I've gone back and fourth when it comes to the factory lockouts but after running them for the last 2 years (40" Trail Grapplers) I can say they seem to hold up fine. They've survived longer than a complete set of factory axles, so that says something.

The only problem we have had is the plastic dial doesn't hold up to rock hits. :shaking: I don't know that the metal ones do either.

When you drive down the road, a lot, its nice to be able to unlock the hubs vs. pulling pucks like we did on the UA. If its a dedicated trail rig I would consider just running pucks or shafts that don't require pucks.
 

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Is your front open? Locker? Std steering, hyd assist, full hyd? All those variables will play out how long a stock lockout will hold up.


My expectations are pretty low for mine. When I'm done, it'll be 4ds, full hyd., and a arb or zip locker.

Hoping yukon will have some out in the near future.
 

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Is your front open? Locker? Std steering, hyd assist, full hyd? All those variables will play out how long a stock lockout will hold up.


My expectations are pretty low for mine. When I'm done, it'll be 4ds, full hyd., and a arb or zip locker.

Hoping yukon will have some out in the near future.
This is the CJ-10A Jeep I was referring to...

It has a grizzly locker and hydraulic assist steering in the front axle.
 

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...what is the diameter of the hub on the 8-lug unit bearings? I am sure that this was posted before, but after so many pages I have lost it.

...how much is lost on the long side 256 shaft after hacking off the sub taper diameter portion?
I'm kind of like Lincolnman, I don't do FB. That link didn't work for me.
Reiterating some questions that I do not think were answered before taking off (I am at work).
Also, thanks for the 3d model file, that link was fine. I had to click something about a one time download rather than signing up, but otherwise it worked fine.
 

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Oh, sorry. I am just trying to determine if the lockout is a larger diameter than the old style. E.G. would you need to hog out your wheel centers on wheels that fit (for example) a 1990's F-350 truck? I suppose the way I asked that was as clear as mud. Oh - and I know about the 8x170 pattern. I am only asking about the diameter required for the wheel center to fit.

For that matter, are the aftermarket lockout units identical in dimensions, only differing in appearance and materials, or are they any different, like shorter, longer, fatter - whatever.

...and did anyone determine whether the factory shafts are through hardened or simply case hardened (and therefore poor candidates for resplining) ? Sorry - I am no machinist or metallurgist and so I have to rely on other people for some of this stuff.

I have not even gotten a chance to mess with the 3D model file yet - life suddenly got busy when we got a spat of warmer weather.
 

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I'll look at my stock shafts in an hour and two and report back.
I'm sorry, I honestly can't tell which it is. I figured there would be a discernible color change from OD toward ID on the end of the shaft but there isn't really. Maybe this means it is through-hardened? Or just that the shaft was cut and THEN treated so that the tip of the shaft is also hardened part-way in? I don't know about about the process to say for sure.
 

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I don't know for sure, but I really doubt the shaft is through hardened. Almost nothing is done that way.

Edit: actually what I should say is the shaft will probably have a different hardness inside. Like 45 Rockwell inside and 58 for the outer .050". Not sure how that effects splines. I'm sure the splines are thicker than .050".
 
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