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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All,

There is a '66 FJ40 for sale near me for $2000, decent shape, new brakes/exhaust, some rust. I am wondering if this is a decent year and model to base a trail rig buildup on? I plan on going with 36" tires, locked both ends. Are the stock axles up to it? Is there an issue with the column shift arrangement on this truck? I'm familiar with Jeeps but have never owned a cruiser, so I'm trying to guage what the heck I will be getting myself into if I take the plunge. Basically, I would want to do a spring over and lockers. Is this a common wat to lift the FJ40 or is it better to go with new springs? Any advice is appreciated.

-David
 

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couple things to help u out with as i am off to class rightnow.

66 = no disk brakes up front (not cool) so you can either get a 76 and up front end and swap in or just get a d 44 to elminate birfield joints.

as for the axels being strong enough, depnds on how you want to wheel, i wheeled my stock cruiser for 2 years on all teh hard trails out here and never had a problem, it crawled to fast but i had fun. arbs in both axels. i just sold everything.
im sure there is more but thats a start. jiMMy
 

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Downside:
Axles: Course spline (axle shafts and pinions), ball joint front.

brakes: 9mm lines, not power, one clean easy option for booster-Wardens

tranny/transfer: 3sp, brittle case t-case

engine: if original, it's junk.

exhaust <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0">new)-you would do something else.

pluses:
emissions
tub? (you say some rust)

1971-1973 would be better years, then disk brakes (1976 and later) gains a lot in mods you might need.

$2,000 is a bit rich for a 1966 and not the best starter.
 

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By ball joint front, he means that the front axle is not a birfield, but a "monkey claw" design. Even weaker than the birfield.
I broke two without lockers in nothing more than mud.
The pinions are a different bolt diameter than the later stuff, so the whole axle needs to be changed if you want to do later diffs, or the mini conversion.
I don't know if I would say that the stock motor is junk (as I just replaced the original 2 years ago) but it will NOT push 36" tires well, even regeared, and is the worst HP of any cruiser motor. Ok, maybe it IS junk...
And the brake system will NOT stop 36" tires at all.

Some cool stuff: no dashboard pad- just steel, cool winshield hooks- no crappy self stripping screws to deal with. Having driven a lot of different cruisers, the older stuff just FEELS more solid- which is great in some respects, but also makes them a lot more stiff, and rough around the edges.

Oh yeah- the wipers SUCK <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

I love mine, but it cost a lot more than it would have if I had started with a 68 and up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
All,

Thanks for the info on the 'Cruiser, but I think I am going to pass. If anyone is interested in it, it's located in MD near Clarksville and Rt29 on Rt108. Seems that there would be a lot of work needed to get this up to par with a comparably priced old CJ.

-David
 

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At least with the stock cruiser your driveshafts will be bigger than pencils. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
 

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you're gonna pas up a rig with real shackles for a j**p?!
66 is not the best year to start with for that price. find a newer one and you'll never go back to the dark side!
<IMG SRC="smilies/trooper.gif" border="0">
<IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0">
 

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Dave-

for example:
1976 FJ40 here in Cody for $2,000.
plus:
4 speed
disk brakes
2F engine (ok for 33's)
power brakes
.......


Downside to this truck:
cancer (rust-no panel immune)
no smog
smokes on accel. (rings seems like)

a donor truck at $1,300, but too expensive at $2,000.
 
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