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The first thing I did was test fit the cell PN# RCI 2161A to the jeep. I found that I could gain some room by removing the third brake light BS from the gate.



Its hard to tell in this picture but the rear seat fits the cell perfect. It sort of sinks into the seat a little.



This is the mess on the passenger side of the jeep. The emissions was moved under the jeep and the harness had to be extended for the smog pump and emissions sensors. I will run this whole mess inside the jeep at a later date. For now, it's going to look like a mess. I will tuck it under the jeep as best I can.



Next I dropped the tank out of the jeep. It was almost empty and still weighed about 70 pounds. The jeep gained about 1" of lift in the rear after this was removed.



This picture shows the relocation of the smog pump, and charcoal canister. IT does not interfere with the axle at all. When I stretch my wheel base it will be free and clear of all components. I plan to add a skid to all this later.



To remove the lock ring I used a screw driver and tapped it with a rubber mallet. It came right off, but some people have had problems removing it.



I noticed lots of stuff in the tank after removing the stock pump. Some of it looked like tags off of the pump. I covered the opening and set the tank aside. I had to butcher some parts off of it for the install as I progressed.



Next I cut the carpet just behind the seat belts to aid in clean up after wheeling.



I then drilled some holes after marking the cells location with a center punch. A 3/8" bit was used to accommodate the hardware. be careful as some wiring for the lights may be in the way as you drill.



I then mounted the cell using some sway bar end links and washers. I used 3/8 x 2" bolts and lock nuts to fasten it all down. The rubber will isolate the cell and help it from cracking should the tub flex and twist the cell. It is a good idea to add some sort of support to the center of the cell to hold up the bottom. I used a cut down tire bumper off of my tail gate.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Next I marked the location of the stock pump rings. Three rings will need to be made to hold the unit in place. I had mine made by pirate4x4 member "TJken" Thanks man! Here is the pattern on the cell after marking. I tried to get the pump as close to center as possible to keep it from starving in extreme off camber situations to one side or the other.



This is what your pump should look like after you have cut your hole and set your retaining ring on top. I used an air body saw to cut the aluminum. Be sure to center punch your holes before drilling the lock ring stud holes.



This picture shows how far the pump is off the bottom of the cell. It looks to be about an inch. A couple issues, 1. The filter on the bottom is just pressed on. It could be possible for it to come off. Mine was pressed on rather well so I will use it for now. I am going to modify the pump down the road to use standard pickups in an inverted T setup to fix this problem and prevent starvation in off camber situations. Dont' forget to vacuum all the junk out from cutting!



Here is a picture of the lockring setup to weld the 1/4 x 1.5" SS bolts on the bottom retention ring. I just tacked them on two points of each bolt.



Next the bottom retention ring was cut in half so it could be inserted inside the cell. I realized that I could have just made one cut in the ring to get it in by straddling the aluminum wall in the single cut and rotating it in. I made a gasket by tracing the top retention ring and use a spent 7mm shell casing as a punch for the holes. Just a note, I left the ring unpainted as I was unsure of how the gas would affect the paint.



Cell is mounted and pump is installed. I painted the ring and used some sealing washers under the lock nuts. I picked Ford blue for the ring because I like blue. : )



I went back to my old tank and pillaged the barbs off of the old ROV valve and the other breather. Cut both barbs flush with its base and use them to adapt the stock clamping device to a standard nipple. The emissions was simply removed from the tank and suspended by zip ties in its original location. The original roll over valve and gas filler vent were simply capped off. I used the roll over vent on the cell with some -8 ss line and hardware to attach it back to its original location. Some of this is sort of booty fab but is looks and feels solid so it should be good. Use whatever you can to improve on my ideas.

Parts are out now that adapt the stock flange to the -6 line

The two part numbers that you need to make a solid connection from the cell to the hard line are:

RUS-640860

and

RUS-640850

One part is larger then the other. The pump is 3/8", and the frame side is 5/16." I hope that is accurate!

Anyhow those are the part numbers that you should need to adapt the AN hose to the stock goofy ass flange on the pump, and hard line.



This image shows the fuel side going through a drain plug and under the tub. I used -6 line for the fuel and used a Russels 5/16" tube to -6 adapter to mate it to the existing hose. I cut the stock barb off and re-flared the stock line. The Bling line and fittings is expensive! I was into it almost $130 just for fittings and line. Cheaper brass fittings can be used if you want. I plan to make a grommet out of pipe foam for drain plug. I used looming to protect the 4 wires that must be extended for the pump and sender.



And here is the finished product!



It fits fine behind the seat but does have some downs. The pump makes some noise so it may irritate some folks, I can her the fuel sloshing around but not bad. I can also hear the little check ball in the Roll Over Valve as the jeep passes over large bumps. I plan to make some baffles lined with sound mat to get this thing a little more livable. This is my DD so I will also want to separate the cab from the cell as much as possible.

the good. I can now stretch my jeep and have a crap load more clearance in the back. I can't smell ANY fumes inside the jeep so I must have sealed it correctly. I am just a hobbyist to keep safety in mind while doing this. Do not take my fab work as a correct way to do things. The above is what worked for me. I also did not cover EVERY single step but this is the bulk of it.

Enjoy, and add what you can!
 

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Nice detailed write up! I did mine a few weeks ago and am thinking about the walbro fuel picks as well. I left mine as is until I am board enough to pull it all out again :lazy:
 

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Thought I would drop a note and let everyone know that we make a weld on aluminum ring that is threaded for the screw on stlye sending unit like on the tank above. Call the shop for details.



I like the way that you mounted yours, BTW. Very easy.

-Dan
 

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Nice job with your write up.

I've got one more part to finish, and I'll have the near identical set up.

I'm unclear as to the parts I need to attach the fuel supply hard line to the fuel pump. Looks like you said : I used -6 line for the fuel and used a Russels 5/16" tube to -6 adapter to mate it to the existing hose

Is 5/16" correct?

If at all possible ..... do you have the part numbers for what you used to extend the fuel line to the pump. I'd sure apperciate it.

You don't mention it anywhere in your write up, but I see in the pics, you've
put a grounding wire from the tub to new cell.

Joe
 

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lilgreenjeepyj said:
How do you plan to pass the fuel nozzle size test? I know here in CO they check the size of the fuel filler opening.

Nice tech and writeup BTW.
Here in NJ .... This fuel cell would not pass DMV inspection.
 

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TJ Ken said:
Why won't it pass in NJ?

Just curious, maybe there's a way around it.


And

In Colorado, you need the fuel filler opening to be smaller? Is that what you're implying?

QUOTE]

You would need a stock style fuel filler.
 

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TJ Ken said:
That's it? Like if the stock fuel filler fit on the cell it would pass?

I'll take a look at it & see what I can do.

Where would you like for it to be located?
I'm not in any way an expert in DMV regulations .... and rules vary from state to state, so check with your local DVM.

If they test for proper sized fuel filler, I'd expect them to want to see it in a stock location or at least on the exterior of vehicle. It may be as simple as mounting the stock filler on the cell as you suggest ..... I don't know?

You should look around and see if a fuel cell mounted inside the passenger compartment is even allowed ....
 

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Nice write-up! I was reading about the fuel filler size too in the DMV codes for California (originally from there). They do a check to make sure it is the proper size, and also do a cap pressure check. Aside from that, the only other things I could find were that the original smog equipment needed to be in place. On my '97 though, the charcoal canister is under the hood and I didn't have near the amount of hard line to deal with. I picked up a couple of fittings and some braided line that just completely replaced the soft fuel line - they're Earl's fittings and are two different sizes. I just brought the stock line down there and we used a caliper to find the right sized fittings.

Dan, those are some nice rings - I'd definitely like to learn to TIG weld if I can win the Internship!
 

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Only one thing I noticed that may present an issue:

The tabs that are used to support the cell on the rubber isolators may break or bend.

I would either add some additional support under the main body of the cell so that all the weight is not being supported by those four tabs, or remove the isolators and drop the cell down so that it's mounted right to the floor.

Other than that, very nice job.

Dan, I like those threaded weld on rings.....now if only I could weld aluminum.
 
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