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Discussion Starter #1
I installed a Firebird master brake cylinder(1980) in my Samurai. It was a fairly painless experience with the exception of running back and forth a couple of times to the auto parts trying to convert the fittings from american to Metric. I have 4 wheel disk brakes on toyota axles with all toyota 4 cyl. calipers. I wanted to swap from the stock MC because I had to pump it to have effective pedal, but now that I made the swap my pedal is very,very stiff, and I practically have no stopping power. Even though I had quite a few lines apart during the swap it bleed out almost immediately. Anyone have any ideas of where to go with this to correct the problem I have?
 

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Sounds like a bad brake booster or no vacume to it. or did you not use a booster
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I kept the stock Suzuki booster, how do I trouble shoot the booster for failure?
 

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Just make sure it has vacume to it if so then check it with a vacume guage to make sure its not losing air (bad dihaphram)
 

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That master could have too large of a bore for those smallish 4 cyl calipers. It seems to me the guys using the Firebird master are using GM calipers.
Travis..
 

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I kept the stock Suzuki booster, how do I trouble shoot the booster for failure?
what year booster the firebird master only works with early (pre 88) ones
 

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Discussion Starter #8
my samurai is an 87 and I think that maybe it might not be compatible with the 4cyl. calipers
 

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Did you seal up the area where the master cylinder butts up with the booster?
I run the same setup but with a rear disk swap and my brakes work awsome.
 

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That master could have too large of a bore for those smallish 4 cyl calipers. It seems to me the guys using the Firebird master are using GM calipers.
Travis..
Not true. I'm running one with 4 wheel disc and Sammy calipers. It works great.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have it sealed with a paper gasket material but I may try and seal it with some rtv sealer tonight. By the way I took it wheelin this weekend and the brakes really sucked. I have to make them better and even if it means to go back to the stock MC.
 

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Seal it with rtv and seal the little hole on the bottom of the flange with rtv and let it dry fully before trying the brakes.Ive been running this same setup for 3 years now and it works great for me!
 

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ZUK Herder
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I tapped the hole and put in a set screw coated in jb weld
also if you go to home depot into the home heating section the there is a hot water heater rubber gasket that fits the m/c perfect and the holes line up with the booster I'll take a look next time I'm in and get the part number
 

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Discussion Starter #14
plug what hole on the bottom of what flange?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
thanks Wheelnrock, I rtv the flange and that made a better seal than the paper one I had. It made vacuum and it works great now.
 
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