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Discussion Starter #1
I live in Chico, CA and it has been 103* - 107* outside lateley...

I have a Chevy 327ci V8 and my temperature guage says I am running anywhere between 185*-200*. It usually cruises at 185* in the morning and then in the afternoon when it gets pretty hot and I have been driving for 30mins or whatever, it goes up to around 190*-195* and then when I stop at a stoplight or wait in line to drop a boat in the lake it rises to as much as 230*. TODAY IT GOT TO 235* but only for a couple minutes.

I know 235* is too hot and I already know what my problem is ( crappy fan shroud) but I want to know if 190* is too hot of a cruising temperature?

ALSO - Will I know right away if I blow a head gasket? Never blown one before so I don't know what to expect - will it be a loud popping noise or will I just eventually see oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil???


Thanks for any advice you can give me...
 

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a stock camero/fireturd electric fan dosn't come on till 235' so I wouldn't worry just yet. the biggest thing I would be looking at is how much cooling you acctually have.
is the radiator doing its job?
is the water pump moving coolant?
is the thermostat in the intake? if not put one in!
is the coolant set to a resonable freeze level? ( -30 would be nice)
and last but not least how old is the water pump? if its older then 8-10 years its probablly bad , the impeller rots away inside and then its just a peice of sheet steel spinning inside(doesn't move coolant) replace if needed.
 

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My water pump is WAY OLD looking - It might even be the original 1968 waterpump. How hard is it to replace the waterpump? Is it a long and involved process or is it an easy swap?

Thanks for the suggestion -that is probably my problem.

ALTHOUGH I DON'T HAVE A FAN SHROUD! (which could also be the problem )....
 

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A fan shroud is an absolute must at low speeds. 190 is just fine for an operating temp. Hell, my 'stat opens at 195, you'd better be alright. Definitely check out your water pump too, I've gone through two on my '93.
 

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I used to have wicked overheating problems with my SBC in my s10. I fixed the problem with a Mr. Gasket High flow thermostat, a bid 4 core aluminum rad (Ford Thorus rad, the 3.0 litre one with all the options). I also added a set of flex a lite electric fans (210 series). I did all these mods at the sametime so I'm not sure how each mod directly effected the temp problem. anyway now I run at 180 all the time and can get the temp to drop to under 160 deg at idle (with the fans on). I almost never run the fans when I'm on the road (driving that is). I probably went way overboard on my cooling system to how built my motor is, but I was sick and tired of running 220-230 in the woods all the time and I wanted to make sure that I would never have this problem again.
190 deg is normal driving (most of my buddies street cars will get up near 220 deg in traffic).
I've since installed a Edelbrock Victor Jr water pump, but have yet to drive the truck with the new pump.
Changing the waterpump is quite easy (at least I found it quite easy), the hardest part I found was getting the powersteering pump brackets lined back up. If I remember right it took me about 1.5 hrs to do and I was fawking the dog doing it.
 

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get you a electric fan from a early 90's ford Taurus w/air.They are two speed and move alot of air.Run it with your pulley fan and switch it on in traffic.
 

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How hard is it to replace the waterpump? Is it a long and involved process or is it an easy swap?
I would guess it should take about an hour if you know how and two if you don't. the fan needs to come off, then the alt brackets & power steering bolt(you can slip it past the P/s and save time) then next drain the radiator the hoses. you will have to remove the 4 bolts (2 each side) that hold the pump to the block, and if it has a short hose from the intake to the pump now is the time to replace it.

when you get the old pump off there are 6 bolts on the rear cover that let you service the pump, you can open it up and see if the impeller is still there. it should have 3/4" paddles on the rim of the impeller, in most old pumps they rot off and don't move water anymore. some pumps have a cast centersection and they hold up longer

when your ready to assemble have the new gaskets glued to the pump with trim adhesive then you can hold the pump inplace while you start the bolts, tighten evenly till you seat the pump to the block (35 ftlbs is the spec) so have fun and becareful.
 
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