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A fucking killer
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Rubicrawler said:
It's a posi;)
*ponders*

a friend of mine is selling his and its shimmed really stiff.

He made it through Sledge and Claw this past weekend with no problems...

or maybe do a power-lock in my Dana 60?

I know I *should* do a full Detroit, but the $$$ is prohibitive.
 

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My TL was fine for the first handfull of runs. Very minimal brake input would lock it up. Now it takes considerably more brake input.. my aging 4.0 doesn't like it and it doesn't make obsticles as much fun either.
Get a lockrite, you can sometimes find them used for a great deal.



(edit: If you're talking about the rear axle and $$$ is tight, just weld it up!)
 

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It's positively worthless. Wanna buy mine, it's gathering dust :flipoff2:
 

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IH/Rover Moderator
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Rubicrawler said:
It's a posi;)
It's a limted slip not a Posi! Posi or Posi Traction is a brand name limted slip used by GM and made by Eaton. !:p :p
 

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Old Scout said:


It's a limted slip not a Posi! Posi or Posi Traction is a brand name limted slip used by GM and made by Eaton. !:p :p
Geez :rolleyes: Ok, I stand corrected, it's a LS:p
 

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uglyscout said:
As for limited slips - the word on the street is Powr-Loks are better than Trac-Loks. But both are nowhere near any real locker ....
Power Locks are great limited slips, the more they wear the more they grab, or so I'm told. A buddy has been running them for years and I've very seldom seen only one tire spin....only when one is off the ground. In the front it would be perfect, still, they're no substitute for a real locker.
 

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If $$'s an issue and you're not wanting a Lock-right or ez-locker, search for someone selling a Detroit Tru-Trac. They're a gear driven LS rather than clutch. They lock well although it is written that they lock better with higher tire speed. I ran one for about a year in a D35 before the 8.8 before the 14 bolt. It worked great and even broke 3 D35 shafts in its time. Picked it up for about $100.

Doc
 

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RockDoc said:
If $$'s an issue and you're not wanting a Lock-right or ez-locker, search for someone selling a Detroit Tru-Trac. They're a gear driven LS rather than clutch. They lock well although it is written that they lock better with higher tire speed. I ran one for about a year in a D35 before the 8.8 before the 14 bolt. It worked great and even broke 3 D35 shafts in its time. Picked it up for about $100.

Doc
The Tru-Track needs a little tire drag to get it to work though (e-brake works fine if one tire is up). No noise or popping like a Detroit, but it sure works.

The diff I had worked great, up until I stripped three of the six planetary gears in mine (my fault). Anybody have the guts for replacement (D44)?
 

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Man Child
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zakk said:


*ponders*

a friend of mine is selling his and its shimmed really stiff.

He made it through Sledge and Claw this past weekend with no problems...

or maybe do a power-lock in my Dana 60?

I know I *should* do a full Detroit, but the $$$ is prohibitive.

You forgot to mention that he is also a damn patient driver.....:flipoff2:


Where's the pics biach!!!
 

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Zakk;
If you can get the Powr-lok for cheap go for that. I ran one in a D44 under a scout ll for 5-6 years before I managed to bust it (my fault- too many hair pin curves above Lexington Res. on asphault at with my foot to the floor.)
 

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Tru-Trac

RockDoc said:
Detroit Tru-Trac. They're a gear driven LS rather than clutch.
I just put a slightly used tru-trac in the front of my Toyota. Since it's gear driven, I guess it's OK to use regular ol' 90W instead of limited slip lube? I hope so, 'cause I just pumped the diff full of 90W! :)
 

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The Power Lok is the most adjustible and one of the strongest LSD out there. I ussually set street rigs up wit 4 curves and the my jeep runs 6 curves front and rear. I like it better than my old detroits because of the lack of ratcheting when you are turning or manuvering in a tight spot. my detroit in the rear more than once ratcheted and slid my jeep sideways when i was in an off camber position. As to the Trac Lock it make a hell of a good boat anchor, paper weight and door stop. That is the frist thing to go out of every rig of mine the power lok is designed to ramp the spider shafts and gears up as throttle is increased and then they push up against the side gears which put pressure on the clutches and the housing. Track lok is all curved plate load without any ramping. The ramping is what increases plate load as throttle increases which is where the TLok lets you down
 
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