Is ther any way to adjust camber on a D44. Not TTB
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I don't like the eccentric ball joint sleeves because you can't get the camber/caster right as well as the ball joint preload.
The other way to do it is to use a shim between the knuckle and spindle. I have one sitting in my garage that I got off of a GM in the j/y.
There is also the chain & bottle jack approach...
The other way to do it is to use a shim between the knuckle and spindle. I have one sitting in my garage that I got off of a GM in the j/y.
There is also the chain & bottle jack approach...
66CJdean said:
I would have Cliff at Lincoln Welding (downtown Sacto :flipoff2: ) spec it out and see if there is something additional causing this. Sounds like a damaged axle housing, perhaps the tubes or the housing itself has taken a beating. - Though I am sure it does not take much. He can jig it back together once any corrections need made...blah blah blah. When I destroyed my 8.8 housing, he put it back together for me for peanuts as a full price customer.
Lincoln Welding
916-442-4787
the shims have always been the best route in my opinion, like stated before the sleeves dont allow proper preload. Also i know every 78-79 F250 HPD44 that i have spec'd had 1-2* positive camber on both sides. I read also it was factory, and i figured you dont notice it till we put big ole tires on. just my .02
I have a Waggy D44 that had eccentric ball joint sleeves in it when I got the axle. I completely rebuilt my axle and threw a bunch of the used parts away before I finished putting it back together. WHen I realized that the old ball joint sleeves were not the same as the ones that came with the ball joints I was only able to find one of the old ones. Needless to say, one of my wheels has -2* or -3* of caster (Just a guess) the other is pretty darned good. Its never been a problem with the 37" MTRs but I would mind getting it right eventually.
Where can you get these spindle shims? They are actually thicker on one side than the other I assume? Never heard of that b4!
Chass
ct
Where can you get these spindle shims? They are actually thicker on one side than the other I assume? Never heard of that b4!
Chass
ct
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Search Newb :flipoff2:66CJdean said:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=300646&highlight=offset+balljoints
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flip the axle over and jump the shit again.
Well I didn't have the option to use any of this stuff due to the short time span I had to work with. The front was a 79 Ford 44 that I had just retubed and though I don't know how must have put them on wrong. Done plenty so this is a first. So since the guy moving and has to drive this TJ from here to Texas and be there for an interview on Monday we had little time to wait for parts. So here was the fix.
Possible Booty alert
Jack up the rig, pull the tires, put on jack stands, grind off the weld all but a small amount at the top, jack up one side with a floor jack under the hub, and give it a number of good wacks with the brass hammer. This moved only the bottom of the C and I did this until I was back to 0* and welded it back up. Each side took about 1.5 hours to do total. It sounds really booty but worked great and it is all welded back up without any shims or adjusters.
Someone posted about the 78-79 Fords coming with 1* of positive camber so I checked the other RC 44 I have here and he is right. Both sides have 1*
Possible Booty alert
Jack up the rig, pull the tires, put on jack stands, grind off the weld all but a small amount at the top, jack up one side with a floor jack under the hub, and give it a number of good wacks with the brass hammer. This moved only the bottom of the C and I did this until I was back to 0* and welded it back up. Each side took about 1.5 hours to do total. It sounds really booty but worked great and it is all welded back up without any shims or adjusters.
Someone posted about the 78-79 Fords coming with 1* of positive camber so I checked the other RC 44 I have here and he is right. Both sides have 1*
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