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So we ordered a one of those long slip kits for the front drive shaft from Trail Gear. I never saw the slip kit but my buddy said something looked odd and he could see the end of the slip at the yoke. Well he took the slip to a local driveshaft guy and had the slip put onto the CV driveshaft. So he comes up this moring to bring me another load of parts along with the drive shafts. Well we are looking it over and I was rather amazed at what I saw. Is this normal for a slip kit from trail gear?

Notice the plug is gone so----lubing it with the zerk is a mute point

And here is the kicker--all the u-joint caps are welded in at 2 spots 1/2" each. Now for me this is not a big deal--but 2 of the caps are recessed almost 3/16" of an inch and you just can gring it flat to take out the weld like a typical yoke end....



 

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that is kinda odd...

wouldn't you think that would be up to the customer to do if they wanted?

I couldn't tell in the picture but does the u-joint have c-clips on the back holding the caps in place.. or ?
 

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Mine looks the same way. that zerk fitting is completely pointless. The caps are welded on because they are not a press fit into the yoke, they are loose with no welds. Mine lasted a total of 15 minutes before I lost 2 of the caps. I found them and could push them back in with my finger. Very poor quality. :mad3:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So I see I am not alone :eek:

yes it looks like there are c-clips on the inside of the yoke--and that would explain why the 2 caps are not flush with the yoke--I thought that looked odd....
 

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i was not pleased with my TG high steer arms. (i got the front SAS kit and rear lift kit from TG) the taper on the arms was all wrong. on the pass side i could only get 3 threads of both the TRE's to come through the arm. i had to use a file and de-burr the drivers arm to get it to work.

i ran them only to have the pass side TRE's egg the holes out. i had to barrow a taper bit from a buddy to re tapered the arms. they work fine now.

other than that i have been satisfied with my TG stuff.
 

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Caps WELDED in???:confused:
That' what I do to get myself off the trail.
Also, someone said they are welded because they don't fit right?
Maybe a Trail Gear technician can answer up.
Calling Chris.
 

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If you look on their website it clearly states that the caps are welded in place. Thats one of the reasons I opted not to get one their drivelines and instead made my own out of square.
 

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mine were just like that when i got them. i took them to the driveline shop and had them made up and all has been good since then. i asked about the welds and i was told the welds are there to keep the caps in if the c-clip falls out.
 

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We started welding the u-joint caps on the shop vehicles a few years ago because most of us here at TG had tossed a cap at one time or another. I personally will not run without them tack welded.

The u-joint caps on the TG driveline kits that we sell are tack welded for one reason, to prevent field failures. The first point of failure on the u-joint is generally the ear on the flange that holds the cap and secondly the cap itself. When the ear on the flange stretches from the torque load the cap becomes free to move due to the hole in the flange becoming egg shaped. So even with a perfect fit between the flange hole and the cap you will most likely have a failure due to stretching the flange ear. We have witnessed this failure many times in our test lab and in the field.

When the cap is installed with only the c-clip it is not strong enough to put up with the abuse most drivers are applying these days. The tack welding is a simple fix that will help keep the caps where they need to be.

I agree that the welded caps create issues when making a repair in the field, but we are hoping that the welded caps will eliminate most field failures from occurring in the first place. This fix has been very successful from our experiences.

FYI, we will be posting pictures of our newest drive line this week (it will not be available for 3 months). The new drive line is .25” larger in diameter. We wanted to go bigger to make sure that the drive lines will support the full vehicle weight without bending. We are doing are best to keep up with the carnage you guys keep dishing out to us.

Thanks for listening; I hope that I was able to answer a few of the questions revolving around the welded caps.

Matt
 

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i was not pleased with my TG high steer arms. (i got the front SAS kit and rear lift kit from TG) the taper on the arms was all wrong. on the pass side i could only get 3 threads of both the TRE's to come through the arm. i had to use a file and de-burr the drivers arm to get it to work.

i ran them only to have the pass side TRE's egg the holes out. i had to barrow a taper bit from a buddy to re tapered the arms. they work fine now.

other than that i have been satisfied with my TG stuff.
X2 on the D/S arm on the kit my friend bought.
 

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my drive shaft was exactly the same way, i saw how the Zerk fitting was pointless so before i slipped it together i wiped grease all over the splines then bolted it up....
 

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Mine looks the same way. that zerk fitting is completely pointless. The caps are welded on because they are not a press fit into the yoke, they are loose with no welds. Mine lasted a total of 15 minutes before I lost 2 of the caps. I found them and could push them back in with my finger. Very poor quality. :mad3:
Weird my brother has been beating his hard all year, a couple 3 day comps, lots of trail wheeling, behind a 4.3v6, t350 and dual cases on39.5" Iroks.

many big bounces and wheels binding. Broken some stock rear ujoints and yokes but the slip and ujoints in the trailgear kit are doing great.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
We started welding the u-joint caps on the shop vehicles a few years ago because most of us here at TAG had tossed a cap at one time or another. I personally will not run without them tack welded.

The u-joint caps on the TAG driveling kits that we sell are tack welded for one reason, to prevent field failures. The first point of failure on the u-joint is generally the ear on the flange that holds the cap and secondly the cap itself. When the ear on the flange stretches from the torque load the cap becomes free to move due to the hole in the flange becoming egg shaped. So even with a perfect fit between the flange hole and the cap you will most likely have a failure due to stretching the flange ear. We have witnessed this failure many times in our test lab and in the field.

When the cap is installed with only the c-clip it is not strong enough to put up with the abuse most drivers are applying these days. The tack welding is a simple fix that will help keep the caps where they need to be.

I agree that the welded caps create issues when making a repair in the field, but we are hoping that the welded caps will eliminate most field failures from occurring in the first place. This fix has been very successful from our experiences.

FYI, we will be posting pictures of our newest drive line this week (it will not be available for 3 months). The new drive line is .25” larger in diameter. We wanted to go bigger to make sure that the drive lines will support the full vehicle weight without bending. We are doing are best to keep up with the carnage you guys keep dishing out to us.

Thanks for listening; I hope that I was able to answer a few of the questions revolving around the welded caps.

Matt
Thanks for the info matt. Whether it holds up or not it just seems hokey for something that you purchase from a big vendor so I had concerns over it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Weird my brother has been beating his hard all year, a couple 3 day comps, lots of trail wheeling, behind a 4.3v6, t350 and dual cases on39.5" Iroks.

many big bounces and wheels binding. Broken some stock rear ujoints and yokes but the slip and ujoints in the trailgear kit are doing great.
You girls wheel like----well girls up there :D
 
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