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Discussion Starter #1
lets face it if one thing is beefed the other will go.....


its not about that imo, i just want to be able to push the point of breakin to a higher degree... i still may break but it will take more effort....


if you use it, it will break. just a matter of how much you get to use it before it does!
 

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If money and time are left out of the equation then I agree with you. Include the cash factor and all of a sudden "diminishing returns" kicks in. Just like in engines, you can throw $1000 at a 4 banger trying to get v-8 power or swap in a bone stock v-8 and start out at that level. Difference now is that when something DOES let got the stock v-8 parts are likely to be much less expensive than the tricked-out 4 banger parts, plus since the V-8 hasn't been modified the reliability is higher (you aren't stressing anything to the max).

If you know you're gonna break anyway, and taking that next step only gets you one foot farther into an obstical but the resulting failures cost 10 times as much, is it really worth it? This is the cash factor. The time factor is the same except instead of costing 10 times as much to repair, it takes you 10 times as long to do the repair.

More to it IMO than just "something's gonna break anyway, so I might as well get all that I can out of it".

[ 10-02-2001: Message edited by: Eric Ruhl ]
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Originally posted by Eric Ruhl:
<STRONG>If money and money are left out of the equation then I agree with you. Include the cash factor and all of a sudden "diminishing returns" kicks in. Just like in engines, you can throw $1000 at a 4 banger trying to get v-8 power or swap in a bone stock v-8 and start out at that level. Difference now is that when something DOES let got the stock v-8 parts are likely to be much less expensive than the tricked-out 4 banger parts, plus since the V-8 hasn't been modified the reliability is higher (you aren't stressing anything to the max).

If you know you're gonna break anyway, and taking that next step only gets you one foot farther into an obstical but the resulting failures cost 10 times as much, is it really worth it? This is the cash factor. The time factor is the same except instead of costing 10 times as much to repair, it takes you 10 times as long to do the repair.

More to it IMO than just "something's gonna break anyway, so I might as well get all that I can out of it".</STRONG>

you read into this a little too far, i believe that it is important to build with the strogest best what ever you want to9 call it material.... but we all know in the end it may break..... i just want to be able to push it further than the point im at... ie, 60's good alloy shafts, 1 ton tranny, t case...... these are all strong stout parts but they too will break.... just takes alot more for them to go than a 44, peugot and a 231
 

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Everything breaks, there is no way around that. If it is on one of our rigs it is going to eventually break. BOTTOM LINE!

What we need to do is find out what lasts the longest, that is what we are all striving for. What will widthstand the punishment we put our shit through the longest, and that is what we need to invest in!

<IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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I my opinion the so called weakest link should be the ujoints in the drive shafts perferable the one at the pinion.

Because when one of these blow rarely do you loose the drive shaft or the yoke. The shaft just falls out of the way of eveything.

This would be what I want to break first, it is an easy fix and easy spare to carry!

my 2 cents!

<IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Originally posted by rockbound:
<STRONG>I my opinion the so called weakest link should be the ujoints in the drive shafts perferable the one at the pinion.

Because when one of these blow rarely do you loose the drive shaft or the yoke. The shaft just falls out of the way of eveything.


id be happy with that....
This would be what I want to break first, it is an easy fix and easy spare to carry!

my 2 cents!

<IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
 

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I don't like to break.. simple as that.. but Im not going to ease up on my wheeling just because I have the chance of breaking.. trust me, out of everyone on this board, at this very moment, I can almost guarantee I have the "weakest" built rig here. running 35's with 4" SUA and 1.25" body lift, tj flares rear hacked flat job in front... with the stock D30/35 combo with 4.56's and locked up front and rear.. while I have yet to break anything.. Im still in shock, only because, I figured the D35 would go a long time ago.. yet its still alive, and doing ok.. Im going to be upgrading this winter, but till then, I AM THE WEAKEST LINK.. GOOD BYE. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
Scott <IMG SRC="smilies/grinpimp.gif" border="0"><><
 

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Originally posted by 1badjeep:
<STRONG>I don't like to break.. simple as that.. but Im not going to ease up on my wheeling just because I have the chance of breaking.. trust me, out of everyone on this board, at this very moment, I can almost guarantee I have the "weakest" built rig here. running 35's with 4" SUA and 1.25" body lift, tj flares rear hacked flat job in front... with the stock D30/35 combo with 4.56's and locked up front and rear.. while I have yet to break anything.. Im still in shock, only because, I figured the D35 would go a long time ago.. yet its still alive, and doing ok.. Im going to be upgrading this winter, but till then, I AM THE WEAKEST LINK.. GOOD BYE. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
Scott <IMG SRC="smilies/grinpimp.gif" border="0"><><</STRONG>

You are only running 35 inch tires, what type of tires are you running? Not a swamper or a bogger I would guess?

<IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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I my opinion the so called weakest link should be the ujoints in the drive shafts perferable the one at the pinion.
Because when one of these blow rarely do you loose the drive shaft or the yoke. The shaft just falls out of the way of eveything.

This would be what I want to break first, it is an easy fix and easy spare to carry!

my 2 cents!
I don't think so. I had this experience once. It took out my rear yoke, my yoke on the driveshaft, the u-joint, ans straps... Talk about carnage. And this was on a Dana 60!!!! I say build it big and strong, and when something breaks, it will be the loudest break you have ever heard. Gonna be some NICE music going on there.

Dimitri
 

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Personally speaking I think just mashing the go pedal and having 'unbreakable' stuff to get over stuff takes away alot of the fun away from wheeling.

Obviously you should be confident you junk will handle the trail and I'm all for inproving stuff but its about skill and judgement (meaning knowing when to back out <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> ) as well as having a 'supertruck'

Tony (birfs, 35" Boggers, Rover V8 motor)

Just my 2pence worth <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Everything is fixable on the trail. some things just take more "ingenuity" than other breaks do. Rig it to get you home, and fix it there properly.

Dimitri
 

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Having the pinion u-joint go first is a plus as long as it doesn't happen at 65mph and add a big mountain to your frame.
 

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Originally posted by rockbound:
<STRONG>
You are only running 35 inch tires, what type of tires are you running? Not a swamper or a bogger I would guess?

<IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
You are correct, Im "only" running 35" BFG MT's, but when you consider how much of a time bomb a D35 is under those circumstances, then its bad news.. Of course, I have taken care of the major issue.. the stock D35 carrier is a weak spot, now that I have a full detroit, Ive taken care of that.. I also have a semi floating D35 instead of a c clipped D35, which makes it somewhat stronger.. but Im still upgrading... because... you can gold plate a peice of crap, but in the end, underneath, its still a piece of crap.
Scott <IMG SRC="smilies/grinpimp.gif" border="0"><><
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Originally posted by Flatty:
<STRONG>I don't think so. I had this experience once. It took out my rear yoke, my yoke on the driveshaft, the u-joint, ans straps... Talk about carnage. And this was on a Dana 60!!!! I say build it big and strong, and when something breaks, it will be the loudest break you have ever heard. Gonna be some NICE music going on there.

Dimitri</STRONG>
thats what im saying build it strong, and if it breaks fix it... even built strong as fawk, something will let loose... ohh well thats part of the game..... not the ill make this section weak so i can figure on where ill break... make it ALL strong and deal with the breaks...
 

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My junk is the only thing I own... So, having some decent gear gives me a little more piece of mind. When I get home from wheeling Sunday night, I have to hop back in that same rig Monday morning and drive to work.

So keeping the breakage ratio to a minamum is important for me. <IMG SRC="smilies/devil.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by Flatty:
<STRONG>I say build it big and strong, and when something breaks, it will be the loudest break you have ever heard. Gonna be some NICE music going on there.

Dimitri</STRONG>
Hell yeah, I love the sound of an Alloy axle or a 60 stub shaft ripping off, beside its more to brag about how your blowing 60's <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">, who cares about people blowing up D30, we all know it happens

ps: when i snapped my steering box sector shaft, that was a pretty cool snap, people could hear that for a long ways
 

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I did not build a <IMG SRC="smilies/rainbow.gif" border="0"> fuse in my rig. I don't buy that shit!

People always ask..."what's next? what is your fuse?"

My answer, Fuck a fuse...wheel it till something pops.

<IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by 1badjeep:
<STRONG>You are correct, Im "only" running 35" BFG MT's, but when you consider how much of a time bomb a D35 is under those circumstances, then its bad news.. Of course, I have taken care of the major issue.. the stock D35 carrier is a weak spot, now that I have a full detroit, Ive taken care of that.. I also have a semi floating D35 instead of a c clipped D35, which makes it somewhat stronger.. but Im still upgrading... because... you can gold plate a peice of crap, but in the end, underneath, its still a piece of crap.
Scott <IMG SRC="smilies/grinpimp.gif" border="0"><><</STRONG>

You could wheel on your rig for 3-4 years on those tires and the set up you have without breaking anything! You arwe fine! I would be happy with going 6 months and not breaking anything!!


<IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 
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