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Discussion Starter #1
Just wondering..I have the tranny, t-case etc, I am installing a new clutch kit, as well as dual cases stock gears in both for now, but is there anything I am missing in there. I got everything pulled out today except for the pilot bearing in about an hour an half or so, got the flywheel resurfaced and called it a day.. But tommorow I want to get everything bolted back together to get the driveshafts measured. But while its off, are there any special tricks or somthing I should do that might need repair.. Just thought I would ask..
 

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Check your rear main seal and your clutch slave cylinder.

Doc
 

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I throw the cases together, put the trans in and then attach the cases. Its hard but you can do all that on your own if you have to. Just need a couple sinch straps.


As for any tricks while you are out... cut the hole in the floor for the extra case. Replace the t-case output seal. Put the front d-shaft flange in the back and the back flange in the front.... since you will be using the cv in back and non cv in front. Also, if you remove the cv-sheild from the case, shim it with a washer when you put it back together. I've heard of problems developing if you don't. Can't think of anything else. If your donor case is 79-80 grind off the extra splines on the ticase input or it will destroy your w56.
 

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4CrawlR said:
If you have any intentions of adding a twin stick shifter to the rear case (unlikely with dual cases), pull out the shift interlock pin.

Oh yeah, that will save tons of time later.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Splines were already ground off, lol sounds like almost everything was done for me! I bought the cases used. Does it matter if there is rtv between the adapter, and the rear case, I was looking at that and it looks like thats the only seal that has that. Front flange is double drilled because I have two different driveshafts that I made one for use, one for spare, the rear is a front t-case output shaft. I had the CV in before the dual cases! I didn't look if the dust shield was shimmed witha washer or not, it was off when the cases came in the mail so I will have to check on that!

On the rear main seal, what am I looking for. It may have been leaking a bit before I took it off, but wouldn't I still be able to see if its leaking while the tranny is off? What am I checking on the clutch cylinder?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
BTW this is in my college auto shop, I'm in the toyota program, and doing this as kindof a side project, but I don't have to use cinch straps or anything, its awesome having toyota buying us the SST's and everything we need, makes things easy. To bad there isn't a special tool to get the top most bolts on the transmission (the two that are on the very top and impossible to get basically. We used two different universal sockets connected to like 8 extensions...
 

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Just check to see if the rear main is leaking or the clutch cylinder is leaking. You can easily swap a clutch slave, but it's off now so check it out. When I did my clutch, I thought it was the rear main, but it was the half moon on the back of the valve cover leaking, the oil was running down the back of the engine and it looked like it was coming from inside the bell housing. But after looking at the rear main, I knew it had to be coming from somewhere else.

Doc
 

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klif02 said:
To bad there isn't a special tool to get the top most bolts on the transmission (the two that are on the very top and impossible to get basically. We used two different universal sockets connected to like 8 extensions...
how about a body lift?
:flipoff2:
 

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With the trans on, just let it hang. It should give you enough room with the wobbley. If you need to make it easier, pull the rear of the trans down. That force won't kill your motor mounts unless they are almost dead already. I don't have a body lift either...goog choice! I am going flat bottom soon so my t-cases will double as an arm rest. Now if they only came with a cup holder.

It helps to use 1/2" drive. it will place the socket more closely to to the bolt on those top two.

Did they get the SST's got those snap rings in the t-case. Man that would be nice.

Your RTV will be fine. When I spoke with Marlin a while back he says they don't use any gaskets on anything - just grey rtv...imo its the least offensive smelling too.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
LOL, I'm not sure if they have that special tool....I'm sure they have it though, there are 4 different tool rooms, snap on sponsors us, lol there are too many damn tools!
 

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Replace the rear main and tranny input seals NOW, whether they're leaking or not.

If this is a 22RE, replace the fuel filter, it's a lot easier to reach with the tranny out of the way.

On the top bolts, it's easy to reach them, "85runnerAZ" has it right. What I do is stab the tranny on, put in as many bolts as you can easily reach (but don't fully tighten them yet), then pull the jack out of the way, let the tranny droop as far as it wants. You won't damage the motor mounts. Then use a 17mm wobble socket on about 24" of extension with an impact gun, you'll be surprised how easy they are to reach.

My son is also in the same Toyota T-TEN program, out here in NH. Very cool stuff, and Toyota does a great job of supporting the place.
 

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nothingleft said:
put the front driveshaft on the tcase now cause its a pita to put it in when you have the crossmemeber there.

He's got duals so it won't be too hard.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yup t-ten program is the exact same thing out here, weber state university in utah. We got everything put all back together in about an hour and 1/2 so about 3 hours working so far, not too bad for a clutch and dual cases. We towed it back to my appartment, and I am waiting on the rear driveline to be made, and for a dual case crossmember from marlin crawler. I also still need to make a hole for the second shifter, lol its just covered up and sitting. Pilot bearing was fun to get off, broke the puller, so we packed it full of grease in the hole and hit a bolt into the hole, pops right off (hydrolics basically) got the new one on, cleaned all the clutch dust and shite out of the tranny and put the new throwout bearing on as well (its so nice to have access to a press to get things on and off) Only thing I think I would have done different is not drop the starter when you're trying to put it back in, I didn't notice it, but it had actually cracked the tube for my oil pressure guage, so we started it up and it sprayed oil out! I was like wtf there shouldn't be oil, I didn't touch the engine. But thanks for everyones replys. I can't wait to try out the difference in gearing!

BTW I used the LUK clutch kit from pep boys, they also resurfaced my flywheel, so about 120$ total after taxes. BTW, its not that hard to put the front driveline on and off with the crossmember there, I have had to do it tons, just make sure its out of 4x4, and the hubs are unlocked so you can turn it, and use just two 14mm box wrenches...dayum this post is long, I'm done!
 
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