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Discussion Starter #21
Are these covers available now through ruffstuff or through you? I checked ruffstuffs site and didn't see them. I am not ready for one yet but will be.
Just through me, I'm doing batches of his covers for sale, and also converting customers covers over for those that already have an aftermarket or home made monster. I asked Dan a ruff stuff about selling them on his site, and he said he would think about it.
 

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Embrace the Suck
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If I ordered one of these setup for the J76, could I use it on my 60 gears until they break and make the upgrade to the 76 parts? I don't want to have to buy this twice if there are differences between the two.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
If I ordered one of these setup for the J76, could I use it on my 60 gears until they break and make the upgrade to the 76 parts? I don't want to have to buy this twice if there are differences between the two.
these will fit stock or Jana'd in all cases.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
for those that haven't purchased diff covers yet, what's the price for the complete cover girdle package (including a ruffstuff cover)?
$275.00
 

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After talking with the GM guy he said to get all the available advantage of the 70 ring gear me must prevent deflection in all directions, we should add more webbing to the pinion support, similar to stock 9" third members which have 1 vertical rib and 3 horizontal ribs, yet the after market one use larger bearings, thicker castings and have 2 vertical ribs and 5 horizontal ones. I think 1/4" webs welded in-between the webs that are there would help. Then some of the Tennessee HP boys I've talked with say the have pushed the bearing caps apart and right out of the housings so the girdle should take care of that. and ultimately a billet carrier cap on the ring gear side would help as per Mark Williams and a host of drag racers.

What are your ideas on adding more webbing to the pinion support area?
 

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I have a Chevy front d60 running a 1.5" tie rod in the stock location. Will the cover fit as is or does the tie rod have to move (ie; hi steer)?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I have a Chevy front d60 running a 1.5" tie rod in the stock location. Will the cover fit as is or does the tie rod have to move (ie; hi steer)?
its going to kiss it a full lock. Now then are you steering to the factory stops, that's about 30 degrees each way. I have an 1 1/4" tie rod, and and my steering stops have been backed off to 35 degrees each way. As I approach maximum steering the tie rod kisses the cover and bows out about 1/8" I was worried about this but it has not caused an issue in 5 years other than a spot of rust. I don't even feel it in the steering wheel. However I did just recently see some offset tie rod ends on the Rough stuff web site. you could also purposefully bow the tie rod slightly.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
What are your ideas on adding more webbing to the pinion support area?
I would make some templates, and weld ribbing/ gussets similar to the factory ones in between the factory ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Ford 10.5 Girdles & Ford 10.25

In Stock now are Jana Girdles for the Ford Sterling 10 1/4 & 10 1/2" Differentials. I started with Ruff stuff covers, so you know these are the Best.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Ultimate 60 Covers with Jana Girdle

For you Drag race guys I have built a few light weight Aluminum Girdle covers. I start with LPW's Ultimate 60 cover which already comes with jack bolts for the carrier caps and add bosses for the thru carrier bolts. The LPW covers already come larger to hold more oil so very minimal grinding was required to clear the D70 ring gear as seen in the partially complete cover on the left. The LPW cover also come with mounting holes for there back brace system, or I'm sure any other back brace could be fabbed to it. Jana 76 covers can also be used to upgrade a standard DANA 60 rear end.
 

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Cast

Hey Carl,

I wanted to know if it is possible or worth it to do some of this with a cast cover?

I am currently running an Ox locker, with its own cast cover which activates the locker. I was thinking of going with the Jana JK44 kit (I have a low pinion front) with billet bearing caps, and they trying to do the girdle or cap load bolts just by drilling and threading the cover. Possible?
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Hey Carl,

I wanted to know if it is possible or worth it to do some of this with a cast cover?

I am currently running an Ox locker, with its own cast cover which activates the locker. I was thinking of going with the Jana JK44 kit (I have a low pinion front) with billet bearing caps, and they trying to do the girdle or cap load bolts just by drilling and threading the cover. Possible?
You wont be able to just drill and tap the cover, as you need the bosses for the long carrier bolts to clamp down thru. I can provide a do it yourself kit. With the OX locker shift actuator you will not be able to get the Jack bolt on the right side of the cover but thats OK as its the left bearing that get the most load. Here is what the Rockcrusher cast cover looks like.
 

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Installation starts with bottom taping the carrier cap bolt holes, then installing the Grade 8 studs, and torquing on nuts to hold the caps in place. I made an extra deep socket to do this by grinding a hex on the drive end of a 3/4 deep well socket to make it look like a spark plug socket, then I double stack a another deep well socket on that to torque the nuts.
View attachment 578764
Here are the stanchions in place over the studs, then the cover is bolted on over this and the stanchions welded in place.
View attachment 578765

@unRL

In the picture there are no nut under some of stanchions?

I am going to do this girdle mod to my Dana 30 cover. I wondered how much spacing I will need between stanchions and nuts on the cap. Also is that some kind of paper or gasket on diff gasket sealing surface (white) that act as a shim to 'set' the stanchions' depth to nuts on caps?
 

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Discussion Starter #36
@unRL

In the picture there are no nut under some of stanchions?

I am going to do this girdle mod to my Dana 30 cover. I wondered how much spacing I will need between stanchions and nuts on the cap. Also is that some kind of paper or gasket on diff gasket sealing surface (white) that act as a shim to 'set' the stanchions' depth to nuts on caps?
You have a very good eye for detail. the pic showing no nuts under the stanchions was a mistake, all should have had nuts. as for the paper gasket, this is in place for welding only. that way there is about .008" compressive load onto to the stanchions, after installing without a gasket, and just using right stuff.
 
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