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Discussion Starter #1
One of those weeks..... A 2000 jeep non abs systems no sets where my abs booster did. Everything for the install went smooth and cheap. I read previos posts about converting the calipers to single circuit and followed strange rovers advice. Used the bleed screw and some brake line to power the second circuit. I cant get full pedal out of the system. Have bleed the brakes to death and am nolonger getting air from the lines. Is there any tricks to bleeding this set up. Or did is this jeep system not gonig to stop my rover?


TIM.
 

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There are 3 bleed nipples on rangie front calipers. If you have overlooked the top inside one, you wont get all air out.
 

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I'm going with air in the system. But either way please keep this thread updated as this sounds interesting.

BTW, I still have to double pump my stock RRC brakes, even with new pads, fluid etc. Likely I didn't get all the air out either. I neglected to bleed the ABS pump and that is probably the culprit. Oh well, maybe some day I'll do it right!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just went and bleed all the calipers with all available screws and nothing but clean brake fluid. I have a hard pedal but the truck wont even lock up the tires on a gravel road. When i put the booster and modified the rover pedal it went through the full range of pedal motion without a problem or hang up. I have to think the jeep brakes have enough power to stop my RR without any problem.

Heres the set up:

Jeep Booster and master cylinder attached to the oem jeep proportioning run with new lines to all calipers. I ran a single line to the rear brakes and split them at the axle and the other two lines from the peoportioning valve went to the front brakes.

Do I need a different proportioning valve or do i have some bad brake components(never had a master or booster go bad)?

This sucks I would rather be doing a toy 3rd swap

Tim
 

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second that - LR front brake calipers have four pistons, and rears - only two. You will have pretty balanced brakes without the prop valve.
Still, I believe prop valve may not be your problem. If that's any consolation, I can't lock up the wheels neither on any of my rovers, nor on the Wagoneer with RR axles (but this one gets close). One potential issue may be the volume of the master cylinder.
If you want really decent clamping power, look for 3/4 ton GM brake setup - from late-70s to beginning of all-wheel disk brakes (maybe the latter is even better, but I know nothing about it). The fitment of a dual-diaphragm booster may be a bitch in a Rangie, though.
 

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Also, any component can go bad - that includes m/c and booster. If your booster leaks vacuum, you may not have the full power assistance.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Pretty sure all the components are good. I will bend some new lines to run the master without the proportioning valve or possibly get an aftermarket unit. Does anyone have the dimensions of the rover non abs booster and master cylinder? Would like to do some calculations to compair possible pressure diffences between the rover and jeeps brake system. If a jeep can stop the weight of its elf and something its towing it has to be able to stop a range rover(it would really suck to be wrong here since its all installed and the pedal modified :mad3: ) Are the trcuks that are doing these non abs conversions street driven or just trail rigs? Keep giving your opinions

Tim
 

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Tim, I've only done a jeep to RR axle conversion - leaving jeep brake booster, master cylinder, and lines intact. The jury's still out on whether it's bug-free or not yet, but the jeep does stop more or less like my Disco. It's a street-driven jeep, in a neighborhood full of very expensive cars, so I am very quite anal with the brakes.

What jeep brake system did you use?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The master, booster, and proportioning valve are froma 2000 jeep cherokee and are made by bendix(marked on the mc).
 

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keep in mind that it is about 800lb lighter than an RRC. One more thing - IIRC, the rear brakes on an XJ are drums; you may need to remove the residual pressure valve from the corresponding port on the master cylinder - otherwise, the rear brakes will always drag.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Did some research on jeep brakes and this is the skinny: The Booster is a double diaphragm model used on later trucks. This is a common swap to early model trucks in the jeep world. Think my problem stems from an anti-lock up valve in the proportion valve that can be modified(gunna give it a shot). Another option is to go with a wilwood aftermarket proportion valve. Anyone know if these are worth the money.

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well just got back from a short drive and the brakes are still not all there. Took out the proportioning valve and bent new lines for the rear axle and ran a single flex line there. Strange thing is the pedal is really hard but still cant lock up the tires on gravel. The only thing i can think is i converted the circuits on the front calipers incorrectly. Any more opinions before I move on to chevy 3/4 ton stuff.
 

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that's where I am with jeep m/c and RRC brakes. It won't lock up the wheels, but it would stop hard enough for the Oil Pressure light to come on for a split second.
 

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If the pedal is good and you still don't have the brake performance you wish for it's time to start to think about ather things, in my mind.
Contamination on rotors/pads?
Wheel size?

My rangie stopped well with 30-32" tires, but when I went 35,5 i could not lock up anymore.

T
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I am not running verry big meats 265/75 bfg at's. I will look at the pads and rotors to see if that could be the problem. I painted the underbody to stop the rust. However, the car will have bigger meats and some drivetrain upgrades in the next year.

Another option is hydroboost. Found a complete set up off a chevy van for 50 bones. This might be a little more fabrication than I can handle(read all the previous posts on the subject). I know I can make the mc and booster fit without a problem but the hydraulic pressure to the booster is my issure. Has anyone ever mounted and additional pump lets say in place of the ac compressor? I am thinking this might be more manageable then to repleace the rover ps box and pump with chevy units. Just a thought

TIM
 

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Tim,

people do Hydroboost conversions for big jeeps - but they have the luxury of having the Saginaw steering pump (that has enough balls to run steering, brake booster, winch, etc. at the same time). It doesn't look very difficult to build a bracket for one - but only for 95-on LR engines. There is a slim chance of making the bracket for the remote-reservoir Saginaw pump - but even to take measurements would be a PITA on an earlier RRC.
You may want to call Master Power Brakes - http://mpbrakes.com/ for your best options.
 
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