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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Inspired by Low budget pimping and Markavalenti builds ,

I started this build a few weeks ago , I may change the engine out for a JDM ZC engine if I can find one, but if not then I will use the Acura 1.8L I'm using for mock up.
The plan is for front and rear steer using landcruzer bj60 diffs


So here's where Im at :









 

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This should turn out pretty badass,j5s work is :smokin:
 

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how many single seat buggys does a red head need? :homer:

Looks like a cool project.
 

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Looks good, I would hunt down a B20 that would use the same trans and is the same size as the ls you have now, both the single cam and dual cam ZC are d series and would require a different trans and all the mounts are slightly different. With the B20 bottom end you can run the B16 or Gsr v tech head and make more power and have a broader torque curve. I'm still trying to talk my self out of building one of these, turboed B20 on propane with 4 wheel steering in a light package would be nasty.
 

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Looks like a good start....after competing with the lo-budget Pimipin buggy last weekend....I would try to find a way to incorporate a front dig. Im not sure how well the transaxle will put up with it being that the outputs at the trans axle are about 1" OD.

Now if you are going to use that trans Im pretty sure you will have to use the stock shifter out of the car it came from, to get the gear position switch input needed to make it all work. That trans is not a bad set-up just extra wiring. like said earlier a B20 bolts right to it and has more torque... and is a 2L in a 1.6-1.8 size engine.

THe B20Z make the most HP and TQ...but they are more expensive too...
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc2000search.cgi?what=page&item=30028

Now if you are going to add a turbo or supercharger I would look at making the operating system OBD1.....(92-95) if it isnt already... OBD1 is the most tuner friendly set up for adding power with boost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well then I think I'll carry on with the B series I have.

I have been thinking about drive line disconnect , Picked up some junk t case parts to see if I can possibly make something work.




Started mounting the engine today , got the two sides mounted.





 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
wouldnt a D16 be lighter and torquier (sp) than the B16? especially with boost?

cool build regardless, love these little transaxle buggies.
Honestly I drove a Honda once 15 years ago, So I don't really know a lot about them, but I'm learning

I'm into the engine for $200 and will use all the parts from the car.

Played with my new milling machine



 

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Interesting build , The transaxle will only give full power to the front or rear at one time right like an open diff ? or are you welding the diff ? I could see that stub with bearing support actually being a good thing - I would use 2 of them one on the rear and front outputs and do the disconnect after that part . Jess
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Interesting build , The transaxle will only give full power to the front or rear at one time right like an open diff ? or are you welding the diff ? I could see that stub with bearing support actually being a good thing - I would use 2 of them one on the rear and front outputs and do the disconnect after that part . Jess
Yes the diff in the trans axle does get welded, the stub is used to give the car equal length cv shafts , my plan is to cut that piece down , try and get some kinda drive line disconnect in between the the tranny and a support bearing with bolt on flange on for a toyota drive shaft.

That tcase shaft (I think its a toyota front out put. not sure ,got it out of a buddy's scrap bin?) is actually the same spline count and only a couple thou bigger than the honda stuff.

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Hey Jess do you have any experience with the Remco Driveline
Disconnect ?

There is a local place that has some, they are looking to get rid of.
 
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