Pirate 4x4 banner
1 - 20 of 95 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is my interpretation of what my ideal FJ40 is. I used as many Toyota parts as I could and "tried" to keep it as low buck as possible.

Here is what the original frame, cage and body started out as I bought it.



Here is what I got and what I kept of the roll cage. I had to modify it a little bit since I need to fit a seat in the back.


The original plan was to built put a SBC 350, SM465, and 40 series 3 spd t-case. Build a 4 link rear using an 80 series rear axle and coil springs, front suspension and axle was a FJ60 front housing widened and 80 series hubs, knuckles, shafts and radius arms and call it done.


Everyone knows how long the original plan stick around.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Life got in the way and the build got put on hold a little bit. I really really disliked the front nose bar, how the roll cage was behind the bib, how the frame got in the way of front suspension travel. I tried working with it, but I couldn't.


So I cut it all off.


Also I found a Ruff Stuff front housing on Pirate for a good deal and that is when the plan went to hell. Order a set of Hell Fire Fab knuckles and arm (great parts), cut out the front suspension.


Hell Fire Fab arms and knuckles.




 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Front frame and grill bar.






Had to modify slightly the lower tube for tie rod clearance at full compression. Just a slight bend.


Winch mount is below the grill. It is only a few inches in front of the leading edge of the tires.


 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,885 Posts
Looking forward to this!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Front upper coil spring bucket mount. I overlapped the joint where the frame and tubing meet, also I tied the steering box mount into the coil spring mount on the driver side to give it more support.




I also tied the roll cage and top of the coil spring mounts together. I used tube clamps to make engine removal easier.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank Rob, I appreciate it.

I toiled for months on the design for the fuel cell. I didn't want it all in the passenger compartment, but yet I didn't want it hanging down below the rear frame rails. So the best compromise was to cut a hole in the floor and mount it level with the bottom of the rear frame rails.

Here is the mount I made for the RCI fuel cell using Artec's mount. The tank is removed from the bottom. The tank has to be pushed up a little and the bottom plates come out then the tank.







The tank doesn't intrude to much into the passenger compartment. Later it will be covered with sheet metal.



I welded square nuts to the Artec mount so when I bolted the UHMW skid on it would also hold the tank in plate. I used a 1/2" router bit to round the edges and counter sunk the stainless hardware into the 3/4" UHMW.



 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
The plan changed a little bit more since I acquired a Advance Adapters rock box from another FJ40 I bought. The rock box doesn't have provisions for a mount at all. I don't like the way torque is put into the FJ40 transfer case with the huge AA rear mount, so I made a support for the rear of the t-case and plan to make two torque mounts on the off where the PTO mounts are on the SM465 to help control the 223:1 1st gear low low range.







 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
A few miscellaneous pictures of different parts.

Radiator mount using sway bar end link bushings.



The front suspension is a three link now. Track bar bracket mounts to the steering box mount, wraps under the mount and tubing.



Front axle upper link mount. I've seen several upper link mount fail from basically a "square tube" welded to the axle tub. So in addition to the "square tube" I made these two plates and they spread out at a 45 degree angle giving it front to back and side to side support, and more weld surface area on the axle tube.



 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Here is the transfer case belly skid and rear support mount. Used UHMW for the belly skid. I routered it out with a 1 3/4" bit to counter sink it into the cross member and counter sunk the bolts. What a mess. Also I put in a cross support for the UHMW on the cross member.









 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Filled 60 some holes in the frame (factory holes, prior owner holes and so on)



Looks much better.



Also tied in the coil spring mount and winch mount more during final welding.



Finally got it painted. The winch plate I bent to follow the tubing and cut a hole in the plate in case I wanted to winch down on the front axle and prevent it from becoming a swimming pool.



 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Starting final assembly.......



Amazing how the last 10-20% takes forever. For instance, the making the exhuast seemed to take forever. I wanted it tight and tucked up out of the way, but yet easily removable. So I made it in three sections using ball flanges.

I traced out a bend, marked it in 5 degree increments, and also noted which angles would give me certain offsets for when I needed to make jogs or how far a bend would offset the exhaust tubing.









 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thank you for your comment. When I rebuilt the transfer case I used the latest model year 3 speed case I had laying around, supposedly that stronger than the earlier years case. Along with George's, from Valley Hybrids, nose cone brace and transfer case top brace. Installed a later 4 speed transfer case finned nose cone and fine spline front output gear. Hope this makes it last until I can afford a Trail Worthy Fab offset drive Hero case. Though I don't really want to give up the Rock Box ever.



Also installed one of AA's twin shifter kits.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,390 Posts
A lot to like on this build, well done!

A couple questions, is the rear axle stock 80 width and did you have to move the coil mounts on the axle? the coils tuck in between the frame rails well.

What material is the plating on the quarters and rockers?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
The rear axle is currently a stock width 80 axle. The coil mounts had to be moved in to fit the stock 80 series coil springs. I also removed the drain plug and made a ring gear skid that was formed in my hydraulic press.





The corner and rocker guards are 3/16" steel. Kind of heavy but will do the their job well.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Finally it stopped raining in Virginia for a day or so. I was able to roll the tub out of the garage and do some "body work". Basically fill the huge holes the prior owner cut for coil over shocks.



Also moved the mid bed channel back to help support the floor more by the tank opening and to clear the rear upper coil spring mounts.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Finished the transmission mounts today.

New PTO covers for the SM465.



Passenger side mount.



Driver side mount.



Also managed to mount the brake master cyl., clutch master cyl., and steering column on Friday.

 
1 - 20 of 95 Posts
Top