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Take a Knee
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8,452 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I guess a TJ on 404's is hardcore ... :confused:

I've had a couple requests for pics of my build so here it is. First, for those who recognize this Jeep - I didn't do the original build. I bought it from a guy up in Minnesota who did the original build and am in the process of a rebuild. Some of these pics are his and some are mine, but I've become intimate enough with the rig during the rebuild that I can probably answer most questions and can certainly add any specific pics that anyone might need.

Now on to the eye candy ...

It all started here


Add a balanced and blueprinted TPI 350 from an '86 Vette with cast iron heads


First attempt at a rear suspension setup (now 4 linked with no trac bar)






Radius arm on the driver's side front (I can't take credit for those welds) :D


Front shock hoops and Fox 2.0 air shocks, passenger side single link


Tight clearance around the oilpan
 

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Take a Knee
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8,452 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Front DS


Rear DS


10" of droop and 4" of up-travel on the Fox 2.0's


Full hydro


Engine between the shock towers




Art Carr 700r4 and Atlas 3.8


Stazworks 20" double beadlocks and 39.5" IROKS (getting ready for a little trimming)


Cutting brakes


Compared to my stock TJ on 31's
 

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83 toy, 06 tundra, 49 willys pickup
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150 Posts
Looks like it will work awsome, and it's only a few inches taller than your stocker.:smokin:
 

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380 Posts
Sorry I'm a newb, but I'm looking at your rear shaft and what are you going to do bout rear driveline angles?
 

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Take a Knee
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8,452 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Sorry I'm a newb, but I'm looking at your rear shaft and what are you going to do bout rear driveline angles?
There really isn't much of an angle. The third member input is at almost the same height as the output shaft of the transfer case. One of the many advantages of the portal style axles.
 

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263 Posts
u narrow them 404s? dont look as wide as ive seem b4 and can i get a head on shot thanks :D
 

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You need to rotate your driveshafts 90 deg. if you haven’t done so already. The yolks need to point in the same plane for proper geometry.
 

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Take a Knee
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8,452 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
You need to rotate your driveshafts 90 deg. if you haven’t done so already. The yolks need to point in the same plane for proper geometry.
Are you talking about the pic where they're just laying on the floor? :confused: I don't think I'll damage the joints with them just laying there. :D
 

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539 Posts
I noticed you mentioned something about the cutting brakes. I had the idea to mount the E-brake cables on the frame and use air cylinders to engage and disengage them seperatly for digs and what not. Is this how you did yours, I'm just curious...
 

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Take a Knee
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8,452 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I noticed you mentioned something about the cutting brakes. I had the idea to mount the E-brake cables on the frame and use air cylinders to engage and disengage them seperatly for digs and what not. Is this how you did yours, I'm just curious...
No, they're electrical solenoid actuators and use the hydraulics of the regular brakes. You step on the brake, flip either switch (or both) to the on position and they lock until you flip the switch to the off position.

Here's a link: http://www.thepartsbin.com/sitemap/jeep~line_lock~parts.html

Buy two if you want cutting brakes.
 

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Got yea, those seam like they would work better, however, I'm gonna try my air cylinder idea and see if it works. The cylinders are free to me...I just hope the e-brake will have enough force. I'm gonna use like 2 inch cylinders or something.
 

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Take a Knee
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8,452 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Got yea, those seam like they would work better, however, I'm gonna try my air cylinder idea and see if it works. The cylinders are free to me...I just hope the e-brake will have enough force. I'm gonna use like 2 inch cylinders or something.
Keep us posted!
 

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Mudinyeri,

Thanks for posting the pics. I thought the axles were narrowed. I would also like to see a head on pic.

You need to rotate your driveshafts 90 deg. if you haven’t done so already. The yolks need to point in the same plane for proper geometry.
I was under the impression that this is the way that driveshafts were surpposed to be phase?
Can anyone verfiy this?
 

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Do you have amymore older pictures of engine/oilpan and front axle clearnace? Do you have a pic of the front drive shaft installed?

What are the dimensions on the Starz rims? i.e. width/back spacing

Can you get a front measurement outside of tire to outside of tire?
 

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Take a Knee
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8,452 Posts
Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
My understanding is also that the pics show shafts out of phase by 90deg. Pretty sure.
I think you're right. Although, I'm not sure how much it matters on a trail-only rig. The front will never be used for anything but the trail. The rear will see VERY little road use.

I'll most likely have to have the rear extended for the stretch and will most likely have it phased at that time. The front I'll probably just leave alone.

I'll try to get some pics this weekend while I'm working on it.

Edit: Outside of tire to outside of tire measurement is 83" - it just fits between the fenderwells of my trailer.
 

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Do you have any pictures on how you plumbed the cutting brakes?
 
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