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Discussion Starter #1
Im working on an 86 k5 6.2 with a 10bolt up front. Truck has been sitting for 20 years with 30k miles. It runs great, went through the engine and upgrade hoses and what nots.

How about the front axle. It will be an expedition rig long highway miles a few times a year and some moderate to washed out firetrails. It will have a 4" lift with 35's.

What would you suggest to make the 10bolt reliable without breaking the bank? Ultimately, it would be great to do a d60 swap but not in budget now.

Im pretty sure the 10bolt comes 4.10 stock. Im hoping it will be okay for long highway and occasional Off road. Should the Hubs be upgraded also?
 

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i would be amazed if it had 4.10's

if you want to do a d60 then dotn piss money away on a 10/d44.

you can always buy axle shafts for them but you can buy a d60 for what you will spend on a full set of shafts and joints.

but like the vast majority of people here you dont bother to fill in your location so i have no idea where oyu live but there are several d60 for $600 on this board for sale.
 

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number one enemy of the 10 boltis tire size. I would keep a 33 inch tire on there till you can get the D60. If you get chromo axle shafts, then go up to a 35
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks for the replies. Very useful information.

Im located in Los Angeles. Im pretty sure the rear is a 12bolt so if it were to have a d60 swap then i would most likely do a 14 bolt also.

The stock tires are 31's, so what would you think the gearing is if not 4.10?

For the amount of work to switch to chromoly axles then i would think its better just to do a D60 conversion. Although, It won't be doing any hard core crawling, mainly fire trails with camping gear.

Thanks again, greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the link Guidolyons.
 

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somehow, i think you could downgrade to a dana 28 and be fine.
 

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hoestly i ran 39.5's on my 10 bolt and blew axle shafts nad spider gears out almost every trip out

i welded it so no shock load could happen to it and it lasted 2-3X's longer...so pretty much just take it easy
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So you welded up the spider gears so it was fully locked up? Did you drive it on the street or strictly off road?
 

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I have a 3/4t Burb w/4.10's-- and the tow package. Window sticker was in the glove box. :D

Those $600 60's on here will cost about $400 more for stuff like: seals, rotors, etc. I love Highhonda, but those are junkyard axles with junkyard issues-- that said, he does get some cleeeean ones on occasion. And, he's got all the parts you need at good prices.

I ran 35's and a light foot on mild trails and didnt' grenade anything-- but wasted the balljoints pretty good, and never felt too good about that frontend.

choose carefully.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well from the advice of you guys and the research, i think im going to push on getting the Dana 60 and 14bolt with 4.56 or 4.88.

How is the stock limited slip on the 14 bolts? Would it be okay to just switch the gearing and if needed ride the parking brake to semi lock up the rear in a tight spot?
 

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You can tack weld the u joint cups to the shafts. I put 3 tacks on each cup back when I was running a D44 (same u joint size) and it helped them last a while
 

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I've got a 8 lug 10bolt w/ 4.10's so it is possible, but 3.07 and 3.73 are more common ratios.

If you are in the hunt for 8 lug beef, stay away from the 14bolts with the factory "locker". The G80 Gov-loc is probably the shittiest limited slip ever made. If you get one with an open diff, a Detroit will drop right in (replaces the stock spider gears and is probably one of the easiest locker swaps) but the Detroit will NOT fit in the G-80 gov-bomb, so you would have to find an open carrier as well.

Honestly dude, if spend a few minutes with the search button you'll find the answer to your questions.
 

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From my experience (K5 on 36" iroks), the 10 bolt front will hold up decently well if you don't drive really stupid. The rear, however... is what made me decide to do a one ton swap. Everything that the axle housing keeps inside of it broke. I beat on it decently hard and never had any problems with the front, although it was open and I just lay off the throttle when I start bouncing. Also remember to keep those front tires pointed straight. Now it has a D60/ welded 14B and I break driveshafts instead of axles (now on 39s). But I guess that's alright.
 

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I've never personally seen a 6-lug front 10-bolt with 4.10's from the factory, but that doesn't they don't exist. The vast majority are either 3.08, 3.42, or 3.73 but I have seen 2.73. A lot of 8-lug front 10-bolts were 4.10.

I think with 35's, an automatic, low power 6.2, and mild to moderate wheeling a front 10-bolt would be fine. I would probably put new Spicer u-joints in the shafts and make sure the small roller bearings the shafts ride on (the ones inside the spindle) are in good shape and go. You can break a u-joint or shaft but it usually doesn't disable the vehicle, just puts you back in 2wd...the only issue is if you break the u-joint or yokes make sure it doesn't spin around and knock off the ball joints. You can carry a spare set of shafts around and swap one out in an hour using hand tools.

Personally I would be more worried about the rear axle (if stock a 10-bolt). Break a shaft or carrier/gears and you can be screwed as it will likely disable the vehicle. You can't drive on a broken c-clip shaft, and failure of the gears or carrier can lock it up.

On axle gears the main thing depends on what transmission you have. With the TH700r4 you have a nice overdrive gear that would let you get away with deeper axle gears, but with 35's you really don't need any more than maybe 4.10 or 4.56. With no overdrive trans I wouldn't go lower than 3.73 if you like the highway.
 
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