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Discussion Starter #21
And how it rolled out at 3am, to drive to work at 7.......


I'm currently cleaning up my "doubler":grinpimp: from my other truck, which is going in ASAP, and just need to pick new tires.........Then it's into the woods.....
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I've got a bunch of other random details to take pics of, and some pics of the suspension, and I'll post them this weekend.:flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #24
lots of very nice work!!

did you add the same corner braces to the front bumper as the back?
Yup, runs from the frame rail, straight line out to the corner......I'll snap a pic later.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Wish we had it all......We rent space off of a large fab shop, bonus being that we have access to the good tools;)
 

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Well, I don't like the looks of the bumper, but it isn't mine, so who cares? :flipoff2:

It's a bitchin' thread, with some really good ideas, and good homebrew tech. 782 points for DIY'ing it. :D


I"m going to steal your spare shaft storage idea!!! :D
 

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thank you for posting tech, good tech.

is there any reason besides foot room that you tied the front roll bar tubes into the pan where you did?

good to see someone renovating old steel, too. this is the way a build thread should be presented.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
thank you for posting tech, good tech.

is there any reason besides foot room that you tied the front roll bar tubes into the pan where you did?

good to see someone renovating old steel, too. this is the way a build thread should be presented.
Thanks.

The reason other than foot room for putting the down tube there, is that the rear pads are allready drilled on the corners, have to do the front, but when I do, all 6 points are getting tied into the frame with bushings on the end. Up front that is the easiest place to do that.
The sliders are getting welded to the new rockers, and will tie into the cage through those pads as well, to prevent them from flexing up, so I wanted the mounts easily accessable, and in a spot easy to tie into the frame(away from body mounts).
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Well, I don't like the looks of the bumper, but it isn't mine, so who cares? :flipoff2:

It's a bitchin' thread, with some really good ideas, and good homebrew tech. 782 points for DIY'ing it. :D


I"m going to steal your spare shaft storage idea!!! :D
Exactly:D

Thanks

If you do build store them like that, 1 3/4" exhaust tubing makes a perfect sleeve, I wrapped the splines a couple times with electrical tape and they had to be pushed in. 1/8" plate for the cap and flanges and they're done.
 

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Thanks.

The reason other than foot room for putting the down tube there, is that the rear pads are allready drilled on the corners, have to do the front, but when I do, all 6 points are getting tied into the frame with bushings on the end. Up front that is the easiest place to do that.
The sliders are getting welded to the new rockers, and will tie into the cage through those pads as well, to prevent them from flexing up, so I wanted the mounts easily accessable, and in a spot easy to tie into the frame(away from body mounts).
knowing how much a pita the body mounts are on these things, and that youre using longer than stock springs lets me know that you were at least thinking when you did it... just wanted to clarify.

should look great when youre done. keep up the good tech, and thanks for not just bolting on a bunch of blingy shit.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Some other details,

Relocated the deck, and got a DVD player with screen.......There's the bling:grinpimp:
It's got extra inputs, so I'm going to wire in some axle cameras front and rear.....
The stock location will get a stainless plate with in cab winch controls, and light switches.

Checkerplate and rockerguarded door panels....


How the cage looks from the inside painted


Here's my bootyfab hood pins........
1 new wrong length u-bolt(for the long thread section) cut off and drilled through
2 lynch pins
The wires are the old hood release cable crimped with wiring butt connectors, and shrink wrapped.
Custom stainless plate riveted to the hood.
1/2 hour to slap it all together, $0 cost.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Here's the underside of the front bumper, you can see the marker light and grommet in the tube, and the gusset running to the outer edge it's also got vertical ribs down from the gusset.
You can see the gusset from the top as well.

 

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Discussion Starter #35
Here's the spring hangers, front is standard 52" spring swap, relocate using factory holes/hangers, been written up a dozen times.
You can see the factory shackle hanger rearward and lower, and the 7" eye-eye shackles.
The forward rear spring hanger, is the factory one moved forward, Found a bolt hole to line them up side to side, and they are welded and bolted. Same story for the rear shackle hangers, they're factory front somethings I found, and the boomerangs where hanging around from a buddies truck.



 

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Looks great! I'm about to get into abuild alot like this so needless to say I'm subscribed!
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I started getting MY doubler ready to go today, for anyone that hasn't seen it, more info can be seen here........
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=578062

Built Pto covers out of 3/16 for all 5 locations, will be used as additional trans mounts, as well as croosover ports/sight tubes/fill plug in the t-case.
I got sick of luggin these around so I found some 3/8 coarse eye bolts threaded them to the top, and this way when they're ready to go in, they can be installed with a picker through the floor, or a snatch block off the cage.
The crossover and site tubes are pipe fittings, with compression ends, so the hose unthreads, crimped on some clear hose so everything is removable. Other that that pics speak for themselves.

I'm building the shifters for the trans and twin sticks tomorrow, should be installing the day after.





 
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