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363624 Views 1058 Replies 172 Participants Last post by  spidr
So first off I'll say that I like pictures so bear with me......:flipoff2:

Lots of interesting details, and it's not done yet, but I've only owned it for 2 months so I've still got some time.

Specs.......(as it came to me)

1981 K5
10/12 govbomb
stock other than aluminum intake, headers/duals/flowmasters and rv cam.

Specs........(either done as of now or coming soon)

60front full hi-steer, custom diff guard
14ff rear detroit no spin
my own version of a doubler:flipoff2:
52's up front all hangers relocated
63's in the rear, all hangers relocated
interior cage
H1's recentered
Plate bumpers, hidden 12,000lb winch, hidden hitch
tube sliders

bla bla bla bla..........

Album can be found here:

I'd say hope you enjoy, but it's mine and I don't give a shit......:flipoff2:
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And how it rolled out at 3am, to drive to work at 7.......

I'm currently cleaning up my "doubler":grinpimp: from my other truck, which is going in ASAP, and just need to pick new tires.........Then it's into the woods.....
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I've got a bunch of other random details to take pics of, and some pics of the suspension, and I'll post them this weekend.:flipoff2:
lots of very nice work!!

did you add the same corner braces to the front bumper as the back?
Yup, runs from the frame rail, straight line out to the corner......I'll snap a pic later.
Wish we had it all......We rent space off of a large fab shop, bonus being that we have access to the good tools;)
thank you for posting tech, good tech.

is there any reason besides foot room that you tied the front roll bar tubes into the pan where you did?

good to see someone renovating old steel, too. this is the way a build thread should be presented.

The reason other than foot room for putting the down tube there, is that the rear pads are allready drilled on the corners, have to do the front, but when I do, all 6 points are getting tied into the frame with bushings on the end. Up front that is the easiest place to do that.
The sliders are getting welded to the new rockers, and will tie into the cage through those pads as well, to prevent them from flexing up, so I wanted the mounts easily accessable, and in a spot easy to tie into the frame(away from body mounts).
Well, I don't like the looks of the bumper, but it isn't mine, so who cares? :flipoff2:

It's a bitchin' thread, with some really good ideas, and good homebrew tech. 782 points for DIY'ing it. :D

I"m going to steal your spare shaft storage idea!!! :D


If you do build store them like that, 1 3/4" exhaust tubing makes a perfect sleeve, I wrapped the splines a couple times with electrical tape and they had to be pushed in. 1/8" plate for the cap and flanges and they're done.
Some other details,

Relocated the deck, and got a DVD player with screen.......There's the bling:grinpimp:
It's got extra inputs, so I'm going to wire in some axle cameras front and rear.....
The stock location will get a stainless plate with in cab winch controls, and light switches.

Checkerplate and rockerguarded door panels....

How the cage looks from the inside painted

Here's my bootyfab hood pins........
1 new wrong length u-bolt(for the long thread section) cut off and drilled through
2 lynch pins
The wires are the old hood release cable crimped with wiring butt connectors, and shrink wrapped.
Custom stainless plate riveted to the hood.
1/2 hour to slap it all together, $0 cost.
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Here's the underside of the front bumper, you can see the marker light and grommet in the tube, and the gusset running to the outer edge it's also got vertical ribs down from the gusset.
You can see the gusset from the top as well.

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Here's the spring hangers, front is standard 52" spring swap, relocate using factory holes/hangers, been written up a dozen times.
You can see the factory shackle hanger rearward and lower, and the 7" eye-eye shackles.
The forward rear spring hanger, is the factory one moved forward, Found a bolt hole to line them up side to side, and they are welded and bolted. Same story for the rear shackle hangers, they're factory front somethings I found, and the boomerangs where hanging around from a buddies truck.

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I started getting MY doubler ready to go today, for anyone that hasn't seen it, more info can be seen here........

Built Pto covers out of 3/16 for all 5 locations, will be used as additional trans mounts, as well as croosover ports/sight tubes/fill plug in the t-case.
I got sick of luggin these around so I found some 3/8 coarse eye bolts threaded them to the top, and this way when they're ready to go in, they can be installed with a picker through the floor, or a snatch block off the cage.
The crossover and site tubes are pipe fittings, with compression ends, so the hose unthreads, crimped on some clear hose so everything is removable. Other that that pics speak for themselves.

I'm building the shifters for the trans and twin sticks tomorrow, should be installing the day after.

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300ft.lbs x 6.55 x 6.55 x 1.96 x 4.56 = 115,033.615ft.lbs at the hubs.



It's also 7.00 x 7.00 x 1.96 x 4.10 = 393.764:1 crawl......(if both are in reverse):eek::laughing:

It NEVER was an issue of practicallity, it was because I was told I couldn't do it.
Love this build man, and hell of a doubler. How long is your rear shaft after that?
less than 24"

3-4" shorter than stock.
I believe it works out to about 29"

For what it's worth, I've run this before in this truck(below) and it never bound up at all, Just run a center limit strap.

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heheh don't let ME stop ya... I once tried to see how many levers I could stuff into an M715, without being unnecessary:
1.tranny shifter
2.1st twin stick
3. 2nd twin stick
4. 203 shifter
5. front PTO lever
6. rear PTO lever
7. front PTO winch engagement
8. rear PTO winch engagement
9. left cutting brake
10. right cutting brake
11. rear steer lever.

I've done away with the PTO levers for now. :D

Speaking of, got the shifters pretty much in, just have to paint/tighten and add my breaker bar handles(been in every truck I built)
Plan is to throw all this in tomorrow.

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Yup, you're out in Sooke right? Should be running right away, I'm still in the shop working right now(2:40am.......)and it should be driveable tomorrow. Hoping to go wheeling in the next couple weeks. I'll let you know man.
Got the trannies done, and decided last minute that we needed a big bad truck for advertising the local tough truck competition........Mine got voted and the 35's just weren't gonna cut it. So, whats the logical thing to do?:smokin:

I'll let the pics talk.......

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The trannies are working awesome so far, I'll have pics once I sort through them, but I have to assume the auto I pulled out was fubared, cause this motor has loads of torque, and burnouts on 49's ROCK............Driveshaft had to be picked up from throughout the shop and across the street, but it was cool:smokin:
So I got a few installed pics, if anyone wants a specific pic let me know and I'll grab it.

Nearly perfect smooth belly, the belly pan was flush to the frame, but I had to drop it and inch for the rear shaft. Pics pretty much show the rest, I'm working on a remote shifter from on here, and borrowing the high angle 1480 idea from someone.......on to pics.

Belly skid/crossmember out of truck, trans/t-case have 4 poly bushing mounts(end of trans, end of trans, pto on 2nd trans, and side of 205) I still have to chain down the pto on the 205.

Installed pics tell the story.

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And from the inside.......

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