I really like the rub rails and the tubing welded into the fender lines. I've been seriously thinking of doing something along those lines if/when I ever put some fresh(er) sheetmetal on my Blazer, so it's nice to see somebody going that route. I don't mind crunched body panels that much, but there are times when it would be nice to not have all the neighbors think you totalled it on the road.
Got a couple mostly finished pics of the rub bars, the very front and rear braces are just plated to the body and the middle 4 go to the cage.
Other pics are of my almost finished shackle flip, I've had the shackles for a while, I built them and had them on my s10, and the hangers have 4 locations so I can tune the rear suspension depending on what tires I have on at the time, or how I want it to ride. I reworking the front and rear hangers right now, fixing the rear pinion angle and getting a little more driveshaft, about 2 more inches for the 49's. Once that's done I'm building some adjustable bumpstops, 1 location for the 49's and 1 or 2 more for other tire sizes.
I've also got a real trick tailgate going together........I haven't seen one like it, so I'm gonna call it an original. I'll snap pics of that in the next couple days.
I've been tossing around the idea of building traction bar off the side of my pinion guard and the top of the truss, to keep it more center'd and parralel to the drive shaft. Do you think that's something that would work. (not trying to get you to do it and work the bugs out, just curious in your opinion on it's effectiveness.)
been watchin this for a while now and you've got some killer fab work.
My antiwrap is actually going to tie into the tubes, truss, and pinion guard, from both sides. My pinion guard will take it, especially since it's got a 3/8" flange, the pipe is * I believe 6" sch40. The tubes and truss would likely hold it, but I've got it worked out so that the antiwrap will lie directly under the driveshaft and only lose minimal ground clearance, but only forward and up of the guard. It's got to be beefy to stand up to the 49's/400:1/250-300hp. Tires will go down to 42's or so, but I break a lot of driveshafts, Essentially, I'll have a 1-link on leaves. Should have pics of it soon.
Got sidetracked cutting these last night, the box is a chev np241 crawl box, prototype adapter, to a 4:1 D300, Local guy makes one piece shafts, this is for Carls paperweight.....(The blue YJ in the background of some of the pics. LT1,700r4,np241,4:1 D300, 60/14, 44's full exo.........You know,........A Girly truck.)
The plate in the background is the prototype for our own np231 adapter, putting together a couple from s10 np231's, and at least one...bleh....Jeep one.
Got a little more done, finally got the exhaust finished, reused the old bits and just moved it all around, but welded in header flanges on the ends of the mufflers. I've had some square tips for it for a while, the cutouts where made just for them.
Got the bumpstop extensions made for the rear, that way when I go to 42s I can just pull that spacer out, and run just the bumpstops.
And here is my anti-wrap slash driveshaft skidder.
It's replace the truss to pinions tie in, and it bolts to the axle in 6 spots with 3/4" bolts. The heims are tractor cheapies, forged 1 1/8" shank, 3/4" through bolt. No bushings anywhere, and it's a tight fit, but with my setup I wanted NO give.
And since Carl can't stand in this one, I picked the truck up best I could with a floor jack as far forward as possible, without the shackle in place, seemed to work so I tried shock loading it. 2am..........Neighbors must love me. Only down side is that the garage floor is to slick to actually get it to sit still, it was just shoving the fronts all over the place, but there is no movement there that shouldn't be.
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