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The last couple shafts I broke took out the ball joints in my front HP44. Both times I was in reverse. I don't see how that could make much of a difference but a few other people told me that they broke the same way in reverse. Coincidence?
 

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d44 ball joints aren't exactly state of the art in the world of strength. usual complaint is that once the shafts are upgraded the balljoints follow suit in the breakage/wear out world. i hear a lot of guys go through a set per year.

2cents.
 

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The last couple shafts I broke took out the ball joints in my front HP44. Both times I was in reverse. I don't see how that could make much of a difference but a few other people told me that they broke the same way in reverse. Coincidence?
Backing up a hill and turning?
 

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I think you need to have more respect for your undersized axle....and not place it in those situations. You're loading the shafts and the recoil when they break causes them to knock the balljoints out.
 

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i Think You Need To Have More Respect For Your Undersized Axle....and Not Place It In Those Situations. You're Loading The Shafts And The Recoil When They Break Causes Them To Knock The Balljoints Out.
X2.
 

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The last couple shafts I broke took out the ball joints in my front HP44. Both times I was in reverse. I don't see how that could make much of a difference but a few other people told me that they broke the same way in reverse. Coincidence?

Pretty common. A joint is more likely to break in reverse, especially pulling someone backwards since the weight transfer loads the front much more then usual. Most of us know to be extremely careful if we have to pull in reverse, or not do it at all. What breaks the ball joints is the ears of the broken shafts hitting together and pushing on the knuckle, popping the ball joints off. It's pretty important to stop immediatly when you break an axle u-joint to avoid screwing up the ball joints or breaking the top of the knuckle, and don't drive on broken axle joints or the same thing can happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I dunno, didn't think 33s would be big enough to pop a 44 shaft every weekend. I just want the dang blasted ball joints to quit popping. Whats the best/strongest replacement?
 

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I dunno, didn't think 33s would be big enough to pop a 44 shaft every weekend. I just want the dang blasted ball joints to quit popping. Whats the best/strongest replacement?
i would say something in a kingpin:flipoff2: 33's can absolutely break that stuff. just the way it is man
 

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Pretty common. A joint is more likely to break in reverse, especially pulling someone backwards since the weight transfer loads the front much more then usual. Most of us know to be extremely careful if we have to pull in reverse, or not do it at all. What breaks the ball joints is the ears of the broken shafts hitting together and pushing on the knuckle, popping the ball joints off. It's pretty important to stop immediatly when you break an axle u-joint to avoid screwing up the ball joints or breaking the top of the knuckle, and don't drive on broken axle joints or the same thing can happen.
;)

 

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maybe the balljoints are breaking first and take the ujoints out with it?
Very unlikely given that balljoint design. The way they are installed in the knuckles makes them very susceptible to being popped out of their holes in the inner C if the broken yokes bypass each other.

Happens quite frequently.

The OP also didn't relate what axles he's breaking either. If he's running stockers, then he should learn to enjoy popping balljoints back in if he can't figure out when to stop.
 

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Are the ball joints poping out of the sockets, or is the kunckle snapping?
 

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Pretty simple- upgrade your shafts and joints, and they won't take out your ball joints.
 

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And stop pulling in reverse.

One of these days your shafts will hold, and the rest of the diff will go kaboom.
 

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Grind/machine the knuckles so you can double snap ring the ball joints (top and bottom) and that'll stop them from popping out when your joint breaks. Of course as others have mentioned earlier, the only way to stop them for sure is to upgrade the shafts and joints.
 

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Picture the thinnest part of the ears not being there and the shaft trying to turn. The U-joint is going to push the two axleshafts away from each other in a cam-like action. This outward force usually exceeds the strength of the ball joint. I have seen tons where it strips the studs that hold the spindle on or it breaks the upper ball joint shaft.
 

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The frontend is way weaker than the rear. Just stop pulling in reverse. Simple as that. You couldn't pay me to pull backwards. Take a minute and learn from your mistakes......just turn around and then pull. It will save a lot of aggrevation and money. Even if you get the axles to hold up the ring and pinion will be next. your drivetrain is designed to go forwards.......
 

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Ha! That goes back a few years, Blaine. Only u-joint I ever broke in JV......and you where there. :)

That's at the V-notch before the Z turn on Sledge, on 33's with Spicer joints and Warn shafts, and it didn't hurt the shaft. Dealing with a bad IAC motor and put it in reverse with the foot on the brake at 2000 rpm.......didn't work. :D



The OP in this thread needs to take all the good advice he's getting.
 

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Grind/machine the knuckles so you can double snap ring the ball joints (top and bottom) and that'll stop them from popping out when your joint breaks. Of course as others have mentioned earlier, the only way to stop them for sure is to upgrade the shafts and joints.
Won't work on the top. The upper is designed with floating shaft inside a nylon race that lets the tapered pin compensate for variables in depth when the tapers are machined in the knuckles.

Typically what happens is the bottom gets stuffed down and the top pin just gets yanked out of the upper body. When you put the knuckle back on, you just line up the upper pin and hammer the lower back in by supporting the bottom of it on a jack and smacking the lower part of the inner C.
 
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