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Typically what happens is the bottom gets stuffed down and the top pin just gets yanked out of the upper body.
What I've seen is the cam-ing action of the broken yokes/joint hit the bottom of the upper ball joint and it pushes the whole joint up and out.

Edit: I just went and looked at a HP D44 knuckle and am not sure how the upper pin can get pulled out. :confused: The way the knuck is loaded in place, it wouldn't allow the knuckle to go down. Please learn me something new.

Joe_and_jeep- What is breaking on your joints?
 

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What I've seen is the cam-ing action of the broken yokes/joint hit the bottom of the upper ball joint and it pushes the whole joint up and out.

Edit: I just went and looked at a HP D44 knuckle and am not sure how the upper pin can get pulled out. :confused: The way the knuck is loaded in place, it wouldn't allow the knuckle to go down. Please learn me something new.

Joe_and_jeep- What is breaking on your joints?
The D-30/Rubi 44 knuckles found in the TJ, MJ, XJ, ZJ, and YJ use an Inner C that the top balljoint presses in from the top with the floating tapered pin pointing down.

The bottom one goes in from the bottom with it's pin pointing down and it's the one that gets pushed out.

The trail repair goes like I said above. The upper pin usually stays in the top of the knuckle with the whole lower balljoint in the bottom of the knuckle.

The inner will have an empty bottom hole and just the body in the upper hole.

Edit- this may help-
 

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I figured you must have been thinking TJ/XJ/YJ stuff, J&J asked about a HPD44 and the ball joints have a different orientation. The ball joints load in from the top and the upper can be pushed out when a nasty yoke/joint failure, so you do a little grinding/machine and install a full snap ring in on the bottom of the top joint and you are good to go.

For the XJ/TJ/YJ lower ball joint, use the Napa 10459, it has a snap ring grove cut in it, then the same as the older stuff, do a little grinding on the C and install the snap ring, now it is way harder to pop that joint out.

Here is a pic from MadXJs site of the ball joint showing the snap ring groove:

 

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some good info here. I busted my ball joints once before. the knuckle ripped the joints out downward on my front 30. Typicall breakage. First the u-joint, second the ears of the inner shaft and outer stub shaft, final was the ball joints. It all happened in less then a second and sounded like a shotgun going off. It really sucks and I laughed so hard when the OP posted his pick. I deserve the right to laugh because I've been there and understand the pain of getting home off the trail:D
 

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I figured you must have been thinking TJ/XJ/YJ stuff, J&J asked about a HPD44 and the ball joints have a different orientation. The ball joints load in from the top and the upper can be pushed out when a nasty yoke/joint failure, so you do a little grinding/machine and install a full snap ring in on the bottom of the top joint and you are good to go.

For the XJ/TJ/YJ lower ball joint, use the Napa 10459, it has a snap ring grove cut in it, then the same as the older stuff, do a little grinding on the C and install the snap ring, now it is way harder to pop that joint out.

Here is a pic from MadXJs site of the ball joint showing the snap ring groove:

Not for nothing, but I haven't seen a lower balljoint for the TJ style inner C that doesn't have a snap ring groove and doesn't include the snap ring in the box along with the adjuster for the earlier style.

I wonder though, if putting the snap ring in may have some unintended consequences. Clearancing the inner C may weaken something that isn't very strong to begin with and then if the ring didn't retain the lower balljoint, would it cause more damage when it left? Just musing.
 

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.....doesn't include the snap ring in the box along with the adjuster for the earlier style.
Most nut and bolt houses have a variety of snap rings to choose from, if not, hit the intardnet.

I wonder though, if putting the snap ring in may have some unintended consequences. Clearancing the inner C may weaken something that isn't very strong to begin with and then if the ring didn't retain the lower balljoint, would it cause more damage when it left? Just musing.
You only want to take out just enough to sneak the snap ring in, smooth everything out so you have no stress risers. With the snap ring in place, that ball joint will not be leaving without half the C. :D
 
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