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Discussion Starter #1
Below are pictures of the knuckles of an 84 4runner I am considering. Be gentle, I am new to this all. Are these the legidary Birfields?

What kind of shape do these look like they are in. This was the first time I have seen them. One has supposidly been rebuilt. Is this much knuckle juice good? Truck has 167k miles on it.


 

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The birfield joints are inside the knuckle. These need to have the felts/seals replaced. You shouldn't have that much oil leaking past them. Both of my solid axle Toys look the same way right now.

Allan
 

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Rebuild them soon, appears to have inner
axle seals leaking also. Post a before and
after picture for future knuckle questions. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Originally posted by aedavis:
<STRONG>These need to have the felts/seals replaced
Allan</STRONG>
Ok, is that something that someone with no experience and no friends with experience can do? If not, how much am I talking? This truck is a potential purchase for me, I just want to know what I am in for. (I can turn a wrench, but that is about all I have done. Although, I am eager to learn)
 

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Allpro has the most complete rebuild kit that I've seen, about $120. It's easy to rebuild, took me about <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> hour per side. I also got Apro's stud kit- that makes a huge difference when you have to line all the gaskets up+ the dust cover. I did mine about 2 months ago, haven't see a drop yet.
good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Originally posted by 89YotaRunner:
<STRONG>Allpro has the most complete rebuild kit that I've seen, about $120. It's easy to rebuild, took me about <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> hour per side. I also got Apro's stud kit- that makes a huge difference when you have to line all the gaskets up+ the dust cover. I did mine about 2 months ago, haven't see a drop yet.
good luck</STRONG>
comes with good directions? any special tools I would need?
 

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Yes those definately need all new seals. Check the bearings over too....

Get yourself a Factory Service Manual, and read thru the procedure beforehand. Its pretty straightforward, just have to pay attention to the shim stacks........
Actually, even a Haynes manual should work pretty well........

I think I'm going to be redoing my axle in the next couple of weeks, so if you need help or pics........Drop me a line.

[ 08-29-2001: Message edited by: Cracker ]
 

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actualy they don't come with Sh!t, as for directions. Apro's not to good about the instruction thing...
But, It's real streight forward, there is only one way they come off, and go on.
Just take you're time.
2 spots hung me up, that was the stupid cone-washers on the hub. You'll need a narrow flat punch, small enough to spread the space in the cone. or use an old skinny flat-blade screewdriver, beat it with the B.F.H. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> It might be easer then mine, if it was rebuilt before.
The second was the inner seal on the drivers side. I had to work it for a while...

Besides that it went smooth.
I just took the hole damn axle off the truck, it's about 20min difference.

Have Fun, have lots a raggs handy <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Originally posted by Cracker:
<STRONG>I think I'm going to be redoing my axle in the next couple of weeks, so if you need help or pics........Drop me a line.</STRONG>
You live in Portage? Where is that? Near the VT boarder?
 

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Originally posted by 89YotaRunner:
<STRONG>actualy they don't come with Sh!t, as for directions. Apro's not to good about the instruction thing...
But, It's real streight forward, there is only one way they come off, and go on.
Just take you're time.
2 spots hung me up, that was the stupid cone-washers on the hub. You'll need a narrow flat punch, small enough to spread the space in the cone. or use an old skinny flat-blade screewdriver, beat it with the B.F.H. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> It might be easer then mine, if it was rebuilt before.
The second was the inner seal on the drivers side. I had to work it for a while...

Besides that it went smooth.
I just took the hole damn axle off the truck, it's about 20min difference.

Have Fun, have lots a raggs handy <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
Get a brass punch..those cone washers pop right out! Also get a decent size brass hammer to get the steering arm cone washers out. worked for me slicker than snot. And you won't damage any threads <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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that's what mine look like!

well, until friday.

i bought all new seals for the inner axel and the wipes for both sides.

toyota sells the kit for $28.28 a side.

it would cost a lot more to have them do it.
$150 labor each side <IMG SRC="smilies/puke.gif" border="0">

just get it and fix it!
 

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Originally posted by MudShack:
<STRONG>Ok, is that something that someone with no experience and no friends with experience can do? If not, how much am I talking? This truck is a potential purchase for me, I just want to know what I am in for. (I can turn a wrench, but that is about all I have done. Although, I am eager to learn)</STRONG>
Try this out:

Solid Axle Rebuild Info
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just got info from the guy selling the truck with the knuckles shown above. Both knuckles were shot.....well, here is what he wrote me:

I had the seals replaced on both 'knuckles' and I do have the paperwork. The
grease is from turning over the years. When the seals went it poured out onto
the ball area. I never cleaned it off and to clean it would be a waste of
effort. Additionally, a little lube comes over the ball to keep the friction
down (this is what the mechanic told me). I didn't like the way it looks on
there but he said to leave it. The mechanic did not even clean it after the
new seals were installed.

So, I guess everything is alright.
 

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here's what i did to see if mine were worn out. maybe its just guess work but it's what made me want to change them.

i took mine down to the car wash and sprayed castrol super clean all over the seals and joint ect. sprayed them off really good so there wasn't anything on them. dorve it. and about 2 months later they looked just like yours again.

i just decided to do them and see if it helps!
 

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Originally posted by MudShack:
<STRONG>Just got info from the guy selling the truck with the knuckles shown above. Both knuckles were shot.....well, here is what he wrote me:

I had the seals replaced on both 'knuckles' and I do have the paperwork. The
grease is from turning over the years. When the seals went it poured out onto
the ball area. I never cleaned it off and to clean it would be a waste of
effort. Additionally, a little lube comes over the ball to keep the friction
down (this is what the mechanic told me). I didn't like the way it looks on
there but he said to leave it. The mechanic did not even clean it after the
new seals were installed.

So, I guess everything is alright.</STRONG>
I think that guy is being fed a line by his mechanic or to you. That's obviously fressh oil, I've seen a set of good knuckles exactly like BeastToy said without any oil showing what so ever. Good luck.


Milan
 

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inner axle seals are toast....easy to replace if you have a seal puller(looks like mid evil head whacking tool <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">) and a seal driver set will work well(even cheapo kragen will work)
 

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JUST BUY THE DAMN TRUCK AND WHEEL THE @#$%
OUT OF IT! That stuff is minor, get a good service manual,start wheelin with other Toyo guys and before you know it you will be a poser expert like the rest of us! <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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yo, zags and 89YotaRunner
i'd hate to see your rigs
fix it cheap or replace the whole axle.
ya, you can wheel it, but when all your fluid is gone and your gears are screwed have fun!!! <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
 
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