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Discussion Starter #1
My old rig had served me well, but it was time to move on. I kept the axles,tires,wheels and shocks.The goal for the new chassis is to be safe, have maximum visability, and haul ass. This is a trail only rig so no fire walls, dash, or cooler farms. Only what's needed for the
trails at JV and other high desert locations.
Old Rig.


After KOH this year I talked to several chassis builders. I wound up going with a Jimmy's Gen4(kind of) chassis made from 1 3/4 Cromo of varying wall thickness depending on tube location. Some of the lines are inspired by Nick Nelson's Jimmy's car. Randy was more than willing to make the changes I was looking for. They brought the chassis out to the Glen Helen race and I picked it up there.

Parts list
LS1/4l60/Atlas 3.8
front axle: true Hi9, Detroit,CTM axles and u-joints, 5.38 ratio
rear axle: True Hi9, spool
Warn 9.0Rc
Twisted Stitch seat
CBR radiator
AllTech fuel system
King 2.5" bypass air shocks
Walker Evens wheels
40" sticky creepies
PSC steering
Engine management by PacFab

On to some photos:
Getting it moved into the Garage to start the build. Had to set the seats in.



Hoping for no cooling issues with the giant radiator. Plenty of room for the cell and a nice cooler back here:beer:


54" wide for a little extra room inside.


I had Randy do the motor/trans and link mounts so I could just drop them in.


First order of business will be getting the engine and trans ready to go in.
Motor and trans are from a 98 Camaro. I want to keep the stock car pan so I need to pull it and get the new trap door baffle in there. Going to try the
improved racing baffle.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Graigslist finest. Why is it that ever engine on GL syas it has 90K on it ?


Pulled the trans off the have the output switched. I thought I was going to get away with just changing the shaft. Then the tranny guy call's to say the
unit is junk.:rolleyes: This is probably what took the car off the road. I really wasn't looking to do a full on tranny rebuild at this point but now that it's apart. So, it's getting all new and updated parts with 5 gear planetaries. At least I'll know I can hammer on it out of the box.


Jimmy's got me a great deal on the Atlas and adapters as well. Looking forward to the 3.8 from my 4.3 in the old rig.


The rear main does not leak at this point. On German cars we never change this type of seal if it looks good. Do these engines have rear seal issue's ?
My 4.0L jeep rear seal leaked all the time. But it was the crappy rope type.

 

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Looking good David:grinpimp: Cant wait to see it done.

Nick
 

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The rear main does not leak at this point. On German cars we never change this type of seal if it looks good. Do these engines have rear seal issue's ?
My rear main on my LS1 is leaking. Everybody I talked to said "I've never seen a LS engine with a leaking rear main seal," so apparently this doesn't happen often. Well, as usual, I get to be the lucky one. :( Considering how much work is to change it and how cheap the part is, I would suggest you do it while its apart and save the potential hassle in the future.
 

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i know when i rebuilt my lq4 i called gm to get new seals and they told me that there is an updated rear main seal kit cause some of them had problems i went with the updated kit not sure if the same applys to the ls1's
 

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i replaced my rear main, rear cover gasket and pan geaket last week.
the gasket i bought was a felpro and it was different than the existing one in the motor; was told it was better. There is a proper order of operations when replacing the rear main and rear cover gasket, i had a friend do mine that builds ls engines. also check the condition of the rear oil galley plug, its under the rear cover on the drivers side; there is an update on it also.

kyle
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Looking good David:grinpimp: Cant wait to see it done.

Nick
Thanks Nick. Great win at Vegas to Reno.

I would simple green that motor and run it
It's getting a bath for sure.



OK, looks like I need to check on the new seal and plug. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #13
This is going to be an awesome build.

Who's going to build it? :flipoff2:

You need to get it done by November ;)
Shouldn't you be working on your own Junk :flipoff2: No way for the November
AZ run. If it's out over New Years I'll be a happy man.

Did I fix a tire on the original rig this year at koh?
I know I didn't have any flats. But I think a buddy might have used it to take a red label to somebody to get fixed while I was not there. If that was you than :beer: for helping him out.
 

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cool build / chassis (Jimmys has it dialed)

Im sure the Radiator is just there for mock up and going to go higher in the window.... But you will love the CBR. We run one in our rig and have not had any cooling issues. What sold me is the attention to detail / large fans w/ a shourd that goes all the way out to the tanks (but it looks like yours is different)

Make sure you have a skid or something on that oil pan also. Those things like to crack from a gust of wind (ask me how I know)
 

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Just going to throw this out there because if I was that far into the trans, I would... AA has a 32 spl output for the 4l60e and they should also swap your atlas input for you.
 

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My rear main on my LS1 is leaking. Everybody I talked to said "I've never seen a LS engine with a leaking rear main seal," so apparently this doesn't happen often. Well, as usual, I get to be the lucky one. :( Considering how much work is to change it and how cheap the part is, I would suggest you do it while its apart and save the potential hassle in the future.
Followup to this comment after doing some research. Here are some cliff notes:

• Also check for leaks at....... the rear oil plug (crank plug) underneath the rear cover, valve covers, valley cover, oil sensor in the intake, or rotted PCV lines at the y-junction.
• You can either install just the rear main seal by prying it out, or the whole assembly that includes a rear cover that has several bolts holding it on, including two from the oil pan. If you install the rear cover, you MUST align it properly using the. The cover assembly (including rear main seal) should include a plastic disc that helps with alignment, or you can use a Kent-Moore 41480 tool.
• There is a new, updated seal (black not olive color), seal lip is towards the trans, not the engine).
• The crank must be completely dry where the seal touches it (no oil on it) for the old "teflon" style seal - some say this only applies to the old seal and that the new one can be lightly coated with oil.
• Make sure seal is not put in backwards (should say "this side out" on it).
• Do not use remove the alignment disc from the seal before installing.
• Don't necessarily bottom out the seal in the rear cover, may need to align the new seal with where the old seal was, as there may be imperfections on the crankshaft that would cause a poor seal.
• Check the crank for grooves, nicks, etc. and sand with 600 grit sandpaper to smooth out if necessary.
• If replacing just the rear main seal, use Loctite 518 on outside of seal (optional).
• If replacing rear cover, use silicone between cover and oil pan, especially in the corners.
• In place of a special tool, use the old seal to help tap the new seal into place without damaging it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
cool build / chassis (Jimmys has it dialed)

Im sure the Radiator is just there for mock up and going to go higher in the window.... But you will love the CBR. We run one in our rig and have not had any cooling issues. What sold me is the attention to detail / large fans w/ a shourd that goes all the way out to the tanks (but it looks like yours is different)

Make sure you have a skid or something on that oil pan also. Those things like to crack from a gust of wind (ask me how I know)
It's a trail rig. Radiator will start out down low. If it runs hot I'll move it.
I'm hoping that going with a good large radiator will be enough. Longest desert run will be first part of KOH course. I'll be stoping to let my buddy's catch up so it can cool then.

Just going to throw this out there because if I was that far into the trans, I would... AA has a 32 spl output for the 4l60e and they should also swap your atlas input for you.
It's a budget build. :flipoff2: I have to draw the line someplace.


Followup to this comment after doing some research. Here are some cliff notes:

• Also check for leaks at....... the rear oil plug (crank plug) underneath the rear cover, valve covers, valley cover, oil sensor in the intake, or rotted PCV lines at the y-junction.
• You can either install just the rear main seal by prying it out, or the whole assembly that includes a rear cover that has several bolts holding it on, including two from the oil pan. If you install the rear cover, you MUST align it properly using the. The cover assembly (including rear main seal) should include a plastic disc that helps with alignment, or you can use a Kent-Moore 41480 tool.
• There is a new, updated seal (black not olive color), seal lip is towards the trans, not the engine).
• The crank must be completely dry where the seal touches it (no oil on it) for the old "teflon" style seal - some say this only applies to the old seal and that the new one can be lightly coated with oil.
• Make sure seal is not put in backwards (should say "this side out" on it).
• Do not use remove the alignment disc from the seal before installing.
• Don't necessarily bottom out the seal in the rear cover, may need to align the new seal with where the old seal was, as there may be imperfections on the crankshaft that would cause a poor seal.
• Check the crank for grooves, nicks, etc. and sand with 600 grit sandpaper to smooth out if necessary.
• If replacing just the rear main seal, use Loctite 518 on outside of seal (optional).
• If replacing rear cover, use silicone between cover and oil pan, especially in the corners.
• In place of a special tool, use the old seal to help tap the new seal into place without damaging it.
Thanks for the info.
 

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subscribed!! and you should have no problem with the radiator placement. I know several people the put thiers in the same location and have no issues at all. as long as it has good airflow you will be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok so I'm a Jackass. WTF went wrong ? Rear cover plate is flush with block.
Dealer gasket. Cross pattern tighten. Final torque and I hear a nice "tink".
This was the first bolt out at the end to get final torque. Anybody have a stock oil pan for sale ?




New Baffle was looking good.

 
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