Elf is right on. This is the way that Wayne 'Fozzy' Foster does it. This setup is run on tons of Toy diffs up in Canada. It works great, and even allows just a bit of play - nice on the street.elf_cruiser said:I don't think welding the spider gears to the side gears is the way to go at all. I would suggest filling in the voids btwn two teeth on the spider gears. Fill in 2 voids opposite each other on each gear. Then assemble the carrier so that these welds all hit the side gear teeth at the same time. This way, there is a little play for driving on the street, and you don't depend on the strength of the weld, you rely on the strength of the carrier. I saw a cruiser done this way, and he broke his pinion off, not the carrier.
Ahh I don't know. It just seems that the bit of play would make it a weaker unit. kinda like adding a swing to a hammer.......TLCObsession said:
Elf is right on. This is the way that Wayne 'Fozzy' Foster does it. This setup is run on tons of Toy diffs up in Canada. It works great, and even allows just a bit of play - nice on the street.
What happens when it is slick and it "catches" while you are going around a corner? It just sounds like a really good way to end up in a ditch or attached to a tree... At least with a fully welded diff you know one wheel is going to slide and when.JasonH said:On 90 degree turns you feel it catch about 3/4 of the way thru the turn, but otherwise it feels open.
Jason M - It only slips until the teeth lock it up. In the case of a turn it only needs a little slip, and in general it behaves better than a LR> ON the trail as soon as you have excessive slip, those teeth come into play and and you are lcoked up as tight is if you had welded the whole thing.Jason M said:Then why do it????
I guess I don't understand. The slip cannot help on the trail any and from what you say it really is not that great on the street. Why not just weld the whole thing????