[fj40m4]

has anyone out there found a reliable technique way to weld up a land cruiser diff.

mig? stick? weld gear to gear, gear to diff houseing or ??????????

already used 7018 rod on a diff, gear to gear, came apart in a day. <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

 

[Pin Head]

Here ya go. http://woody.ih8mud.com/welded.html
Penetration is paramount. If you have a good weld, it probably wouldn't matter which you welded up, but there is more accessible area on the gear to carrier joint. If in doubt, you can weld it all up.

[ 11-01-2001: Message edited by: Pin Head ]

 

[wngrog]

Woody will agree, the way he did the writup on his welded gears is not the strongest way.

I suggest putting 8 welds in at the 4 corners (front and back) where the spider gears mesh.

Mig is fine, be sure to clean it out cood before you reassemble.

<IMG width=384 height=256 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/222222ll.jpg">

 

[arndog]

Nolen have you wheeled it pretty tough with that set up. I would like to do the same with a mig.

Thanks,

arndog

 

[Josh]

I thought that most people and welders used a good nickel rod along with a good arc welder. Just my .02

 

[wngrog]

Arndog....trust me.....

I know no other way than "hard". <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

 

[Erik D_lux]

I just went to town with my mig. Welded the side gears to the carrier then the side gears to the spiders, the only thing I would have done differnt is weld the spiders to the side gears on the other side then spun it. I have had no problems and I hammer pretty hard.

 

[bludog]

I welded the Spyders to the Side gears with a DC arc welder, the mod lasted 1/2 a day.
On inspection, the welds came off the gears with little damage, so as advised, I heated the centre in a hot wash to approx 80deg's C
I welded the gears together in layers using as much of the gears as possible, then I let the centre cool down naturally.
I didn't want to weld to the carrier incase
I still need to use it, so far so good, works well <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0">

 

[woody]

you weld it 8 times, at every point where the spiders meet the side gears. Welding the side gears to the case does NOT last. BTDT....

Make sure you have the washers and center block in place during each weld process. Basically, bench assemble, making sure the side gears are properly set out and aren't leaving slop between the washer and the case. Weld the 4 points. Now, remove the crosspin and center block, rotate the inner asembly on the side gear axis 108 degrees, reinstall the crosspin and center block (and the two spider washers that likely fell out) and weld those 4 points as well. Take a pencil grinder and remove just enough weld to allow you to remove the center block.

viola....now, spend some time chipping and cleaning...weld spatter is not the best for bearings...

 

[fj40m4]

thanks for the input.
I plan to pre heat the diff to 450 deg. mig weld the piss out of the spider gears and cover with a metal can so as to cool slower. I will let you know if it holds up to the first day of abuse. <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

 

[elf_cruiser]

I don't think welding the spider gears to the side gears is the way to go at all. I would suggest filling in the voids btwn two teeth on the spider gears. Fill in 2 voids opposite each other on each gear. Then assemble the carrier so that these welds all hit the side gear teeth at the same time. This way, there is a little play for driving on the street, and you don't depend on the strength of the weld, you rely on the strength of the carrier. I saw a cruiser done this way, and he broke his pinion off, not the carrier.

 

[Macgyver]

also coat everything not being welded liberally with a no stick cooking spray before and during if possible.....

 

[TLCObsession]

I don't think welding the spider gears to the side gears is the way to go at all. I would suggest filling in the voids btwn two teeth on the spider gears. Fill in 2 voids opposite each other on each gear. Then assemble the carrier so that these welds all hit the side gear teeth at the same time. This way, there is a little play for driving on the street, and you don't depend on the strength of the weld, you rely on the strength of the carrier. I saw a cruiser done this way, and he broke his pinion off, not the carrier.

Elf is right on. This is the way that Wayne 'Fozzy' Foster does it. This setup is run on tons of Toy diffs up in Canada. It works great, and even allows just a bit of play - nice on the street.

 

[Jason M]

Elf is right on. This is the way that Wayne 'Fozzy' Foster does it. This setup is run on tons of Toy diffs up in Canada. It works great, and even allows just a bit of play - nice on the street.

Ahh I don't know. It just seems that the bit of play would make it a weaker unit. kinda like adding a swing to a hammer.......

It sounds like a really interesting idea though!

 

[JasonH]

That's essentially what I have, except we filled in the side gears instead of the spider gears. We filled in 3 voids on each side of each side gear.
On 90 degree turns you feel it catch about 3/4 of the way thru the turn, but otherwise it feels open.
I also like it as I kept a set of side gears so I can go back to open really easily if I want.

 

[Jason M]

On 90 degree turns you feel it catch about 3/4 of the way thru the turn, but otherwise it feels open.

What happens when it is slick and it "catches" while you are going around a corner? It just sounds like a really good way to end up in a ditch or attached to a tree... At least with a fully welded diff you know one wheel is going to slide and when.
Of course I have never used either so I guess I am talking out of my butt

 

[JasonH]

True. I wouldn't want my wife to drive it when it was slick outside as she might not know what to do if it got squirrely.
I wouldn't necessarily recommend this for anyone who is driving on the street a lot. I only drive mine to the trail and back so I went this route (plus it was free). I've been driving it on the street more lately so I'm thinking I'm going to put in a LockRite - not for the handling characteristics but for reduced wear on my tires.

You really only notice it on parking lot speed manuvers. I've never noticed it on the road, and I've driven it in the rain a few times. We don't get anything slicker than that on the street around here.

 

[Jason M]

Then why do it????
I guess I don't understand. The slip cannot help on the trail any and from what you say it really is not that great on the street. Why not just weld the whole thing????

:jeep3:

 

[TLCObsession]

Then why do it????
I guess I don't understand. The slip cannot help on the trail any and from what you say it really is not that great on the street. Why not just weld the whole thing????

:jeep3:

Jason M - It only slips until the teeth lock it up. In the case of a turn it only needs a little slip, and in general it behaves better than a LR> ON the trail as soon as you have excessive slip, those teeth come into play and and you are lcoked up as tight is if you had welded the whole thing.

It works great... There are definitely some tricks - Fozzy ramps the teeth a bit to cushion the shock. When it does lock up, the torque is transfere to the parts that can handle it.

Jim

 

[fj40m4]

So, mig weld should hold 'eh?

Already welded the gears together, filled every gap I could between the spider and the side gears. I like the idea of just welding the gap in the teeth with out acually welding the gears together. I will have to try that if this diff. blows.

I will be testing the welds this sunday at Hollister Hills along with my club, the Cal Poly Goats, so anyone who wants to come out and play!

:beer: :usa: