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Discussion Starter #1
Whats the largest yoke available for a Np-231 transfercase. Im looking to upgrade them when the Dana 60 front and 14 bolt rear get installed. It would be kind of pointless to have 1310's at the t-case and 1350 or so at the axle.... right? thanks
 

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Personally I don't think it is always a bad idea to have a small u-joint in there somewhere. With a D60/14 bolt combo and the 1-ton joints you have now made the t-case and tranny the weakest parts in the drivetrain.

I always was partial to the idea of running a weaker joint then needed as a "fuse" for my driveline. To me it is better to replace u-joints the t-cases.
 

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Originally posted by DUG:
<STRONG>Personally I don't think it is always a bad idea to have a small u-joint in there somewhere. With a D60/14 bolt combo and the 1-ton joints you have now made the t-case and tranny the weakest parts in the drivetrain.

I always was partial to the idea of running a weaker joint then needed as a "fuse" for my driveline. To me it is better to replace u-joints the t-cases.</STRONG>
I agree...I run 1310's <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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Same here. bets the hell out of changing a shaft. I use Brute Force ones they are stout.
 

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It would suck hard blowing a rear Uj at the T-case if you'r movin fast. If it blows out the rear the DS will just drag on the ground (if it even reaches the ground.

Also, the double cardin end is the spendy end of the shaft. the rear slipshaft is the cheaper end.

I'd keep the joints in the double cardin as big or bigger than the joint to the axle.

YMMV <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">

- Dan
 

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Hey Tony, just leave it yo... hahaha.. its not like youre going to get that 14 bolt in anyways hahaha.. because I already took it from the front of the house and put it in my jeep LOL.. talk to you later bro.
Scott <IMG SRC="smilies/grinpimp.gif" border="0">
 

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well maybe i'm just lucky but i have never broken a 1310 u-joint (except when i first went springover and i didn't have a track bar. i the yokes would bind because i had so much wrap) i have broken axle shafts, axle joints, hubs, d/shafts, etc. but never has a 1310 failed. i wheel pretty hard so either i'm lucky are they are pretty reliable.
 

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Originally posted by high5:
<STRONG>It would suck hard blowing a rear Uj at the T-case if you'r movin fast. If it blows out the rear the DS will just drag on the ground (if it even reaches the ground...</STRONG>
Ths happened to me once. Swung aroung and Put a hole in my muffler so big you could put your fist through it...

It didn't reach the gtround. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hey Scott, Thats funny, you nipplehead! I know you counldnt take the 14-bolt from the front of my house. first of all that bastard weighs twice as much as you, and if you dont remember we had to lower the Fawker down with the winch <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"> and unless your some muscle beach bastard, I know you aint carrying it up 30 stairs. LOL.

Talk to ya Later yo!

<IMG SRC="smilies/skull.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/skull.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/skull.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by Jakesteramalamajama:
<STRONG>Ths happened to me once. Swung aroung and Put a hole in my muffler so big you could put your fist through it...

It didn't reach the gtround. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
Same here...exactly <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"> I also had a CV EXPLODE on the free way...that shaft was cooked <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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What about running a nylon retainer strap somewhere in there? This might be a trick to keep this thing off the pavement if you blow it.

Get some 5000lb milspec 1" Nylon Tubular webbing from a climbing shop, and run this as a hoop around the d-shaft. I've seen similar hoops on vehicles, although I don't know if this would work. Just an idea.

Another thing would be to get some Kevlar cord (ask the climbing shop for either Gemini or Kevlar), which is heat resistant / somewhat muffler safe. It's a polyaramide fiber that has to be cut with shears, not a hot knife like nylon. It's 5.5mm, but it is around 1800lbs tensile or something. If you get it really hot, it will melt the sheath, but the core fibers will stay intact.

Just an idea for people who blow these things alot.

Bob
 

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Originally posted by Trango:
<STRONG>What about running a nylon retainer strap somewhere in there? This might be a trick to keep this thing off the pavement if you blow it.</STRONG>
Just one more thing to get snagged on the rocks.
 

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Originally posted by Dan-H:
<STRONG>Just one more thing to get snagged on the rocks.</STRONG>
not really...if you hang up on the strap, you would get real hung up on the whole rear axle in a moment anyway if the straps not there! The strap won't be the lowest thing under there...I think the strap is a pretty good idea on any rig with a lot of susp. flex. To catch the driveshaft after it sep. at the slip joint.
 

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rig one up and show me some pics.

besides, I never break rear u-joints <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0">
 
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