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Thanks for posting the pics of your fun in the woods! Your bead lock design look great on your buddy’s C2020! Sounds like they are working great too! Those tall C202, C303, and Felt rigs are really a hoot. Playing in the woods they look like primordial mechanical Wooly Mammoths from the ice ages. Pulling Erik’s out of that ice/mud hole and dealing with the busted steering must have been a challenge!
The bead locks for your rig are looking great. Superb work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
They look like they are going to fall over all the time :LOL: but the low center of gravity really helps to hold them on there feet. Erik moved the centers of his rims 40mm (1,6") from last time we were out to get a lower ET and that helped a lot with stability to. It felt much more stable this time.
He wasn't very happy when he got out of the mudhole after 1,5 hours and realized that he probably shattered a cv so the front wheel were stuck :confused: But breaking stuff is part of the hobby :sneaky:

Some more photos from last time.
Robert's C303 going down a slope



This time it was close to falling over, but he held it



And som extra action shots of Erik's C202





Been out in the garage and got rid of this masterpiece from some old owner...





Making new mounts and added som adjustment holes





New mounts on the axel





I have followed your advice and tested articulation at stuff and droop

The frame is lifting on the bumpstop



The shock puched to minimum so i have 5cm (2") travel left



Pushed down to the max, probably never going to get this far with six more leafs in



The shock at max and I have 4.5cm (1,8") left so this should be good

 
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Fun additional pics of those big boxes on wheels! They are a real kick! A guy I worked with in the 80’s had a big 70’s Chevy van he converted to 4x4 that looked similar- but I think the CG was much higher! More of a big foot mall crawler but pretty cool in it’s time.

Nice progress on your rig! Looks like your shock placement is shaping up well! Try articulating them side to side too. Mieser pointed that out to me on my build and I knew the stuffed side would rise a little further, but I was surprised by how much higher it went at the wheel. I plan the lower mount a little further out towards the wheel, so that was good to account for on mine. Your lower mount is right next to the spring though so may not be a travel issue on the stuff side, but the articulated droop side swings inward and your shock body might hit the frame rail or frame side shock mount - so nice to check.

Excellent work on your spring perches! They look really nice and the adjustability is a great idea. Those prior owner perched were a disaster- yikes! Keep up the great work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #125 ·
Sounds like it was a cool rig :D Erik is a fan of boxy 4x4's he is also building a VW LT30 4x4 overlander.

Good point, I made some tests with one side at full droope and the other stuffed and it looked like this:



Shock mounts just clamped with quickclamps



I ended up shorten them a bit more for extra travel and centred them



Same test but welded now





About 3/4" of space at full droop on one side and stuffe on the other



Welded the pitmanarm





I have also finished my highsteer, started by chaning the angle so the uniball would start at a better angle



Made some more changes



All welded



Done :D



Then it was of to the tierod and draglink
Started by turning down some M20x1.5 bolts



Made some holes for plug welding





Fully welded





Now I just have to test if I need to put some bends in the draglink

 

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Nice progress! Your clearances look great on the shocks. Very creative work on your steering set up. Related to that- I sure like the behind the grill / forward pitman arm positioning of the steering box you're using. Very clean. Might be a challenge with a V engine I suppose, but a nice clean package with your 4.
I'm really enjoying seeing the components you are working with and how you are adapting them. Great combinations for a flat fender, with lots of ingenuity on your part to make it all work! Thanks for all your posts!
 

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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
I think the shock setup will work good, just waiting on the new shocks now. I'm really pleased with how the steering setup turned out, and it's 2,5 turns lock to lock.
Now on to the hydro assist :D

I started by welding a M20 nut to the axel housing and made some spacers for the ram.
Alot of pictures and not so much text today.





Then I made a sleve for the tierod





And welded a cut of M20 bolt. Might redo this later, I'm not fully pleased with how this turnedout. time will tell :)







Then I made a rugged mount for the ram



Fully welded, made out of 50x8mm (2x5/16")



Ready for welding



Fully welded, should hold up



 

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Discussion Starter · #129 · (Edited)
Thanks :)

I have bought a winch so yesterday I made some winch mounts.
Made from 50x50x5mm angleiron



Prepareing for welding



Tacked



Testing placment



I didn't want to put the relay box on top of the winch so made a bracket behind it, also made fittings on it for the servocooler and a bracket for that.



Quite pleased with the result



Fits nicely behind the winch



Final result, now I just have to fully weld it and mount the fairlead



I have been looking at battery switches, will a 300A do it or do i need to go higher for the winch?
 
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Winch looks real clean with the box mounted behind it. Lots of air flow to the radiator too!

On the 300A battery switch you are considering, is that the continuous rating? If so, it may be OK. I've seen several folks on the forum here use the Blue Sea switch that's got a 300A continuous rating. It's the red colored one with 300A continuous , 500A 5 minute, and 1500A 10 sec cranking ratings. Might check your winch specs to see what its maximum draw is. Often around 450A I think, but that's at worse case amount of rope on the spool, so most of the time under the maximum rating level.

I chose to go with the grey 500A continuous rated Blue Sea switch to have some margin on my build. Haven't used it yet, so I can only comment based on specs and other folks stated experiences. My battery is under the seat so it has a pretty long cable run, and I chose to add circuit breakers too- to trip if the cable got pinched /shorted. There's a good post on here that I found helpful. The battery switch and breakers I'm using are shown in post 24 in this thread: Winch Kill Switch. That thread focuses on kill switch use for the winch specifically, but same ideas apply to use as an overall vehicle kill switch including the winch.

Hope the info in the above post is of some help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
Thanks for the input :)

I have started my disc brake conversion, with some Swedish parts at least :)
The rotors are from an first gen Suzuki Vitara and the calipers from an 2006 SAAB 9-3 2.0 turbo.

From behind



And the front



I will make the adapter from two pieces and the caliper should sit something like this



Paper templet



And metal



How it's intended to be



Just need to make a big hole in the middle now



Parts made with an angelgrinder :LOL:

 

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Discussion Starter · #133 · (Edited)
On everything in the garage when you have a small garage :sneaky:

Mini update
Made a big hole in the adapter




And som more smaller holes, test fitting the first part



This is how it's supposed to be placed



Fully welded



And some spotwelds on the otherside so it would't warp



I moved the caliper as close to the disc as I could, had to grind away 5mm of the pad to get it closer. I could fit a 1" lager disc if I found one that has the right pattern and size.
But I think this will work great :)



Some more pictures



 

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Discussion Starter · #136 ·
Just went through your entire built , like what I saw . Well done .
Thank you :) Means alot coming from someone who have built a car from scratch

Lars! Awesome build and very inspiring! I recently moved from California to Boras, do you come at all this way? Wheeling at Bråt is a blast! tack!
Thanks, we are talking about going other places later when my build is complete, we have to se how far we will go Borås is 500 km away so quite a drive :cool:


Erik and I have been out wheeling again



Love the Swedish forest



Erik have removed some weight from his C202



Johan is enjoying his and Roberts C303



Last time we got stuck in the mud we learned.......... nothing :ROFLMAO:



And here the enginen died, to be fare it was 30" of mud with 8" of water ontop, and someone had thrown three logs in there :LOL:




But after a tow it started again and we got out in the wood again



Fredrik got a little moor flex and clearance with the portal axles, and also hydraulic rams as shocks. It's a Willys CJ7 from the begining



But we got out and it was a fun day

 

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Discussion Starter · #137 ·
Home again the work continued, all parts fully welded and made a matching hole in the left bracket



Made a bracket for the fairlead





Measuring for good fitment



Fully welded front and back





Mirrord the caliper adapter





Made new fittings for the bumpstop from the pice i drilled out from the center of thebreak adapters





Drilled a hole for the nut



Should just remove the old one now



Got some rustprimer on it, and this is my idea for the front bumper. thoughts?





 

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Wonderbar! That is awesome Larz, the front bumper looks good and it should provide a lot of clearance for you. Winch is clean af, tho those brake mounts look... weak... but given the force is in shear they should be all right.

Keep it up!

-Adam
 

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Discussion Starter · #139 ·
Wonderbar! That is awesome Larz, the front bumper looks good and it should provide a lot of clearance for you. Winch is clean af, tho those brake mounts look... weak... but given the force is in shear they should be all right.

Keep it up!

-Adam
Thank you! :D Yes, they are a little undersized but it was the material I had lying around and I think they will hold up because the force will be in the rotating direction. If they won't hold up I will make a thicker pair :) The thin part is 3-4mm and the thick part 10mm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #140 ·
I have painted some parts





And most of the front of the frame, just the bumper left but I need to weld some shacklemounts to it first.



Painted the front leafs, there will be six leafs in the front, the original heavy felt had nine



And some paint on the axel, the rest of it will be painted when I have made fittings/protection for the breaklines



Got rid of an old broken bolt





When the paint hade dried I removed the excess paint



I put some lithium grease between the leafs when I mounted them



One done :)



Made some hole punches from tubs and made new rubber bushings for the schackle mounts



New bolts and lockingnuts :p





And the bumpstop installed, will need to do some tuchup on the paint as you can see some old red paint.

 
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