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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Considering replacing my current 22RE (161k miles and slightly tired but still strong)mill for something that will deliver the same reliabilty, and better low end to mid range torque.

I've considered the pros/cons/expense/hassle of the different and various conversions discussed here and have pretty much decided that if this LC stroked engine delivers what it promises with a bored out throttle body and perhaps larger injectors, it might be the best way for me to go.

Anyone here running an LCE 2.6 stroker?

Any pros/cons from your experience I can learn from?
 

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I can tell you the one big con...$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$I bet you pay at least 4000.00 for it <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by Pat:
<STRONG>I bet you pay at least 4000.00 for it <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
Someone doesn't know how to read.

LCE's site states the price of the complete kit at $1795 or $810.90 for the crank.

What does a stroker kit end up costing for a 383 for a 350 or how bout a 347 for the ford 302. Around the same price, not cheap....

[ 11-02-2001: Message edited by: Wolfhalen ]
 

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<font color="yellow">I think his $4000 figure was for the whole engine. I know that getting DOA's or LC's EFI Pro engine will cost you ~$3,000... and they're not strokers</font>
 

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Two cons that I can see:

First, the unecessary over bore on the block. This is a bad thing. Reminds me of the stroker kit's for the Z cars L28 engine.

Second, a longer stroke on an engine that already doesn't want to rev. Just ask anyone with a small block 400, over sqaure engine's are no fun!!
 

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If ur gonna spend some serious cash why not do a engine swap???? more power more torque then a 4 has to offer
 

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After about 40K miles, I still love my LCE EFI Pro. Its not the stroker, but it puts out plenty of power compared to the stock motor. LCE is really great about support and advice and such also.

[ 11-03-2001: Message edited by: Alabamatoy ]
 

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Originally posted by Wolfhalen:
<STRONG>Someone doesn't know how to read.

LCE's site states the price of the complete kit at $1795 or $810.90 for the crank.

What does a stroker kit end up costing for a 383 for a 350 or how bout a 347 for the ford 302. Around the same price, not cheap....

[ 11-02-2001: Message edited by: Wolfhalen ]</STRONG>

I think some one does not how to keep mouth sHut! <IMG SRC="smilies/flipoff.gif" border="0">
I was by the way talking about complete motor set ups
They only point I was trying to say is To much money for not enough go..I have a price sheet for lce's motors and parts and they are out of this planet, so unless you are very well off and really want to keep a toyota engine in your toyota(understandable) I would go A different route,rebuild it your self, chevy swap or what ever..Just look at everything for ...People think LCE is the only place to go but there are some many options out there... You could do a complete 4.3 conv. for 4000.00

[ 11-03-2001: Message edited by: Pat ]
 

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I do agree with the KTM newbie, its more cost effective to do an engine swap. But being a tech, I'm still partial to the Toyota engines, three times more money than a 4.3 for the same amount of power, but hey, its only money <IMG SRC="smilies/crybaby2.gif" border="0"> . An EFI Pro stroker long block is $4149.60. This is what I'm saving my pennies for. The reasons are the fact they are balanced and blue printed, have the potential of 160 - 180 horsepower, have your choice of compression, dual metal backed timing chain guides, a kick ass oil pump, and the list goes on and on. The only advice I can really give is don't do it half assed. If you do a stroker and live at higher altitude, compensate with the compression. If you spend that kind of money, its silly not to compliment the stroker with a nice top end - mild porting and polishing, a cam, possibly the oversized valves, and of course the header, and exhaust. When I talked to the owner at DOA (can't remember his name) he was very knowlegable, don't limit yourself to just LC either. I could/am blab for hours on this topic, do your homework, searches, and let us all know how things work out. Good luck! <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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I am running a DOA 4 banger with a webber.
Tim Jenkins is the owner, and he takes care of his customers and they waranty their work. I know becaus my first engine I got from them bit the dust at around 1000 mi.
NOT from anything DOA did wrong, a part failed destroying the whole long block. Tim replaced it and this one is great .
The price whitout shipping was $3,975.00 it had the carb and intake on it.
good luck. <IMG SRC="smilies/roxy.gif" border="0">
 

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What? only 180 hp?? I could build a conservative 22rte turbo motor for 4K and get 225hp.
 

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gadget said:
Two cons that I can see:

First, the unecessary over bore on the block. This is a bad thing. Reminds me of the stroker kit's for the Z cars L28 engine.

Second, a longer stroke on an engine that already doesn't want to rev. Just ask anyone with a small block 400, over sqaure engine's are no fun!!


Boring the block should not cause any problems with these motors. Appearently the are running them without overheating or cylinder problems. I'm running a 93mm bore ( .040" over) with no problems whatsoever. With the 94mm, that is .080" over, which is taking a good amount of metal out. Stock bore is 92mm.

My hybrid revs awesome, so did my 22R. Granted, if you want quick revs, it would be better to destroke a motor. But nobody makes a destroked crank for these motors. It's like running a 351W block with a 289 crank. These motors rev quick as hell!!


Your best bet would be to call [email protected] and see what he says. http://www.doaracingengines.com He won't take you across and he will point you in the right direction.
 

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While were on the subject, what is included with LC or DOA's long blocks?

Do you still have to source an intake, oil pan, or anything else?

do these guys have a core charge?

I've sent several emails to DOA racing without a reply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for all the replys, folks.

Yep, it is costy!!!!

First...after considering all the pluses/minuses of an engine conversion, I've pretty much decided to keep my junk straight Toyota. I've had good luck (161k miles on this motor and anticipating a replacement/rebuild due to low oil pressure at idle starting to show up)...and no, a new LC oil pump didn't help much so I'm looking at loose mains, I think).

I could jerk it and spend the time doing the machine work, blue printing and rebuilding it with high perf parts (stroker, new head and cam, pistons and bearings). I figure I could get into it that way for around $3 grand plus my time, I can get the LC EFI Stroker for around $4 Grand +/- (haven't tried to haggle yet). That's the rub...I don't really have the time to do devote to a full blueprint/rebuild, plus adding the "hassle" factor in...a long block seems my best option.

It (LC's EFI Pro Stroker) comes with the top end and pan, you use your existing efi and headers.

Since I'm more interested in bottom end torque rather that top end power, the stroker sounds attractive. This long block comes with an LC designed and manufactured head which is supposed to flow much better, has a mild streetable cam installed, stainless steel valves, ARP head bolt to stud conversion, dual chain conversion, 5mm stroker crank, high cap oil pump, Clevite bearings, balance and peened rods and forged pistons.

Additional options I think I'll add are the cam adjuster and the under size crank pully/oversize fan pully. (another $400 or so) and having my injectors balanced out ($200).

I am also considering adding LC's heavier flywheel, and heavy duty clutch. (again for bottom end power/torque) and ability to turn 33s or 35s easier (once the 4 inch lift goes in).

With my current Downey header, K&N filter-charger, low restriction Cat and Borla Cat back exhaust, running 4:88s, I think I'll be doing about as well as I can for maximizing low-end torque in a non-turbo'd 22RE. (Maybe a bored out throttle body, but I'm not sure what that'll do to the bottom end torque).

Anyway, with th is sort of investment, my major concern is longevity and how many miles I can realistically expect on this set up (Primary concern with the over-bore 94mm cylinders and the 5mm stroker). I am running a new 3-row rad and should be able to handle any extra heat this thing might give off, so that's not a big deal.

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
By the way, I'd strongly recommend giving Carl at LC a call @ 928-505-2501. He was very helpful and spent maybe 30 minutes or so on the phone.

I was pretty impressed in that he was reviewing ways to achieve what I wanted and not recommending other stuff that would have cost more $ but not added much value.

Shelling out a few bucksfor their catalog is also probably worthwhile.
 

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My LCE EFI Pro is running only the LCE header and a custom 2" exhaust system. This thing makes gobs of power compared to the stock motor. It doesnt really want to rev, tho. LCE told me that the motor will hold together up to 6000 but there's no reason to go there - it stops making power around 4500.

For most rock crawling, I seem to be under 3000, mostly under 2000.

I had some adjustment problems initially, which turned out to be bad connections on the EFI and fubar EGR valve. Unplug the EGR hose and stick a BB in it - problem solved.

I used the Centerforce II and it works great with no fade or slip. I wish I had used the heavier flywheel.

I have a set of the "balanced" fuel injectors - I dont think they are worth the $$, and in fact the first set I got had one bad. Want mine?

As far as the crank pulley, I wouldn't. If you really want effective cooling, get an electric fan. Reducing revs of the water pump and the alternator is not a good idea, IMHO.

Your K&N filter-charger, low restriction Cat and Borla Cat back exhaust will go nicely with this motor. John at LCE told me the throttle bore only works measureably if you have the K&N or some other free-flow filter assy, so it would do well on yours.

The blood red valve cover with the LCE nameplate riveted on makes it all worthwhile.

Ask about the knock sensor relocation mod...

I love spending other people's money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Alabamatoy said:


Ask about the knock sensor relocation mod...

'BAMATOY...I'm interested too. Don't see this in their catalog.

Since you mentioned it, I assume you've investigated or done this.

What is the purpose of modification/relocation of the knock sensor? What problem does it solve?

The only reason I can think of moding the knock sensor is either to get the computer earlier/better information on a knock developing.

Let us know.
 

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I have heard you can run turbo injectors and it might be something to think about instead of having yours balanced etc. I was thinking they would be more affordable than the LC ones.
 
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