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Discussion Starter #21
Just about every K5 had 3.73's for gearing. Some in the 80's had steeper gears (3.08's and stuff). Depending on how large of a tire he wants, 3.73's might be just fine (33's or 35's would prob do fine). Another common problem the chevy's have is the frame likes to crake at the steering box. Offroad Design makes a weld on and bolt on steering box brace to fix this. Other than that, just do some searches on here and look at peoples build threads to see what you can do. There are a lot of cheap ways to build these things, just have to search around. Hope this helps.
Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
are you talking about that forum......let me think.........i think it's in Kansas,.....no .......California....no .............i dont know, then something about 5 ,..........hmmmmm........there was a letter before the 5...........hmmmm ..........A5 .......no ..........L5 ..........no....... fuck i don't know where you could find info on C/K5's. hmmmm, you might try asking in the NEWBY 4x4 section. like said earlier, searching and searching is your friend.

FWIW: body rust and Frame cracking is the major issue, especially with the earlier 70's rigs. personally i would get a later model fuel injected truck with a better frame and swap some better axles and suspension under it. a later model 90's Tahoe with a solid axle swap, good springs, working A/C, and some transfer case improvements should work really well. if his household is anything like mine, if the wife condemns the new truck as a POS because he always is pouring money into it and it rides like shit, then it would be better to start with a better foundation to begin with. if he could find a manual trans rig from the beginning then no transmission improvements would be needed. if he wants to see a built Tahoe then check Powerblock Tv's Xtreme4x4 build of the one they did. in the end it was kickass, but the progression of upgrades they did will really give your buddy an idea what he's in for.

finally, let him know a fullsize chevy is an expensive proposition. i have more into my front axle and driveshafts than my buddies running toyota's have into thier whole rigs. if you want it capable then it's gonna cost you.
Thank you. I did do some searching first and pretty much found some Info about the axle strength and how the rig is capable in stock form, but he won't have larger than 36 tires in sand and mud only.
 

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Just about every K5 had 3.73's
I think this is wrong. Try 3.42's. I can't speak for the older ones though.

I have a soft spot for the TBI 350, it's stupid simple and reliable, and plenty strong enough to destroy 10 bolt axle shafts. Been there, done that.

87 is the first year of TBI, but it runs the older v-belts. In 88 they switched to a serpentine belt. I prefer the serpentine, personally.

The later ones, I'm not sure what years, will have the 241 transfer case. I know that my 87 has a 208, but the 89 parts suburban and the 91 K5 I have both have the 241.

Just so it's not asked, you should be able to fit 33s on a stock truck. You may need to do some minor things, which I will let you find out for yourself. My 91 is running 35s with a 1 inch body lift, with some other minor things, but 100% stock leaf springs.

I will definitely agree that these trucks can, and most likely will, be expensive in the long run. I daily drove my 91 for like 7 years. I am almost certain that at least once a week I was fixing something. What I've learned is that 10 bolts are weak as fuck, but can still take you a lot of places. 700r4s are expensive to have rebuilt. 241s are easy to take apart. K5s are heavy and sink, quickly. Hard tops will come off by yourself, but going back on takes a helping hand, but 6 helping hands is better. The window in the tailgate sucks balls, and the tailgate is a heavy bastard, especially with the window in it.

If I was in the market for one, I'd look for an 89-91, with manual windows and as little rust as I could afford. Swap in a th400 or th350 and do whatever you need to do to make the 241 fit it. Find a 6 lug semi float 14 bolt to swap in the back, OR just go straight to the 60 and full float 14 bolt. If the semi floater option, I'd get stock replacement leaves front and rear and 35s. If the full floater option, shackle flip rear and a quality leaf pack in the front of your choice and 40ish tires.
 

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Ok, real quick. His best bet is to look for a 88 to 91 with a 350/700r4. CUCV Dana 60 and 14 bolts are just about a bolt in. Just need to move the perches and shock mounts on the rear. Lift kits are not that expensive and if he wants a full vert he can get the parts off a 73 to 75 and make it. Keep it low and hack the fenders some and wheel the piss out of it. Make sure you reinforce the frame and especially reinforce the frame at the steering box.


Start with this....


Make something like this, 2nd rebuild of it.....


Keep making changes to it.....


Then you decide you want to run harder trails so out comes the sawzall and well........



Then after all that you get divorced, part the rig out, sell your trailer, and buy a Jeep..........:flipoff2:
 

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Buy a Red one. Chevy always made the red Blazers the best. Also get one with the factory diesel and 10 bolts. Best combo Chevy ever put together:smokin:
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Buy a Red one. Chevy always made the red Blazers the best. Also get one with the factory diesel and 10 bolts. Best combo Chevy ever put together:smokin:
I got the answers I needed, thanks for some of the help. Lets see how long I get useless yet comical info like this for.


Maybe he should get a jimmy k5cause that has the stronger 11 bolts, and Instead of looking for the 350 he could just get the 5.7 big block.
 

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I got the answers I needed, thanks for some of the help. Lets see how long I get useless yet comical info like this for.


Maybe he should get a jimmy k5cause that has the stronger 11 bolts, and Instead of looking for the 350 he could just get the 5.7 big block.
I've heard say that the 11 bolts aren't really much better than the 10s. Plus the parts seem to be harder to find. To each his own I guess.

Oh and the 5.7 BBC was only available on the mexican market. Torquey little motors but really hard on the gas. :grinpimp:
 

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If he's gonna daily drive the truck,I would go with a TBI model K5 which would be an 87-91 IIRC, The FI is better then the stock carb'ed 350's,
especially with inclines,Passing emissions,Fuel economy,etc

The 700r4 would be better then the th350 because of the overdrive,IF he plans to do mild weekend wheeling with daily driving duties it would be better suited.

The NP208 & NP241 are chain driven,I think 89-91 had the NP241,Both have slip yoke drive shaft in the rear,Both have decent low range, But the case itself is
weak compared to an NP205 or NP203.Cast Aluminum VS Cast Iron.

The 10 bolts do come with shitty gear ratio's in the later model K5's,Mine had 3.08 gears :shaking: The 10 bolts can handle mild to moderate wheeling if you leave the
diff's open.They can handle 33 inch tires alright,But as soon as you go larger then the problems will arise:nuke:
After many debate's on here, It's been said that the 10 bolt/Dana 44 share the same strength.

First thing i would address would be adding the steering box weld in frame plate, With the additional brace Offroad Design sells.My K5 when it was mildly lifted on 33's,
I cracked the frame out and i had to fix it with the mentioned remedy ORD sells.That's one of the main issues these trucks have.

As far as doing a lift,Don't bother with those 4 inch lift 47" front springs with blocks in the rear,Do a shackle flip in the rear with 56" springs out of a 3/4 ton truck.
Then move the 52" rear springs up front. DIY4X sells the shackle flip and so does ORD,DIY4X Also sells a kit to swap in the 52" springs up front.

Stock steering might be a pain in the ass to figure out with the 52 swap,So he can either go crossover on the 10 bolts temporarily,Or swap in a set of 1 ton axles with
crossover or high steer.
 

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I got the answers I needed, thanks for some of the help. Lets see how long I get useless yet comical info like this for.


Maybe he should get a jimmy k5cause that has the stronger 11 bolts, and Instead of looking for the 350 he could just get the 5.7 big block.
nice play son!
 

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If he's gonna daily drive the truck,I would go with a TBI model K5 which would be an 87-91 IIRC, The FI is better then the stock carb'ed 350's,
especially with inclines,Passing emissions,Fuel economy,etc

The 700r4 would be better then the th350 because of the overdrive,IF he plans to do mild weekend wheeling with daily driving duties it would be better suited.

The NP208 & NP241 are chain driven,I think 89-91 had the NP241,Both have slip yoke drive shaft in the rear,Both have decent low range, But the case itself is
weak compared to an NP205 or NP203.Cast Aluminum VS Cast Iron.

The 10 bolts do come with shitty gear ratio's in the later model K5's,Mine had 3.08 gears :shaking: The 10 bolts can handle mild to moderate wheeling if you leave the
diff's open.They can handle 33 inch tires alright,But as soon as you go larger then the problems will arise:nuke:
After many debate's on here, It's been said that the 10 bolt/Dana 44 share the same strength.

First thing i would address would be adding the steering box weld in frame plate, With the additional brace Offroad Design sells.My K5 when it was mildly lifted on 33's,
I cracked the frame out and i had to fix it with the mentioned remedy ORD sells.That's one of the main issues these trucks have.

As far as doing a lift,Don't bother with those 4 inch lift 47" front springs with blocks in the rear,Do a shackle flip in the rear with 56" springs out of a 3/4 ton truck.
Then move the 52" rear springs up front. DIY4X sells the shackle flip and so does ORD,DIY4X Also sells a kit to swap in the 52" springs up front.

Stock steering might be a pain in the ass to figure out with the 52 swap,So he can either go crossover on the 10 bolts temporarily,Or swap in a set of 1 ton axles with
crossover or high steer.
Or just get a good set of 48" springs.
And get them to the lift height you desire.
 

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i don't get why so many people have sticks up there ass... he just asked for some help no need for all the fuckin sandy vaginas! who gives a damn if he can search for it? the point of a form is to ask questions and have people reply... shouldn't matter if its been asked before. if it bothers you then don't reply... that easy.

Anyways i would recommend staying away from the np208 transfer case if he is going to do any heavy wheelin, the np241 has a little better oiling system but still is an aluminum case. Try and find someone that's already done alot of the stuff listed such as 3/4 ton running gear and lift you'll save alot of money in the long run.

x2 on the steering box brace its a must!

one thing i always look at when buying these truck is the wiring... to many times have i spent hours repairing someones wiring job that they fucked with or more then one person over the years.

me personally with kids would stay away from the full removable top just in case there was a roll over it just feels alot safer.

check the rockers and under the carpet for rust because that's a common area for these chevys.
 

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Thanks for providing him with some info. Honestly I would just search and search online and all the answers are there. I've owned about 6 K5's and they all have been good rigs. Its all how you build them and the direction you want to go with one is what makes it capable. If he's just doing trail rides, any over the counter lift kit will do, but if you want to make it a capable dual purpose rig, research and you will find many build ups from mild to wild. My K5 turned into a single cab/doved tail frankenstein on tons and I hate the fact I can't take more passengers. Good luck with the blazer search, Google is your best friend now. oh yeah, like mentioned before go to CK5
 

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You totally missed his sarcasm. :rolleyes:
I got it

are you talking about that forum......let me think.........i think it's in Kansas,.....no .......California....no .............i dont know, then something about 5 ,..........hmmmmm........there was a letter before the 5...........hmmmm ..........A5 .......no ..........L5 ..........no....... fuck i don't know where you could find info on C/K5's. hmmmm, you might try asking in the NEWBY 4x4 section. like said earlier, searching and searching is your friend.
yes that place! lmao!

just find the coolest looking one. those are always the best. dont forget to wear your flatbilled hat when you drive it
:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2::grinpimp: I love my hats!
 

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i don't get why so many people have sticks up there ass... he just asked for some help no need for all the fuckin sandy vaginas!
and who the fuck are you?
who gives a damn if he can search for it?
we do.

the point of a forum is to ask questions and have people reply... shouldn't matter if its been asked before. if it bothers you then don't reply... that easy.
Right... but then we have to EXPLAIN things that people could LEARN by READING. you really ARE new, arent ya? wanna cookie? or teeth to eat it with?


Anyways i would recommend staying away from the np208 transfer case if he is going to do any heavy wheelin, the np241 has a little better oiling system but still is an aluminum case. Try and find someone that's already done alot of the stuff listed such as 3/4 ton running gear and lift you'll save alot of money in the long run.
Are you fucking stoned? why not run the tried and true 205? oh... wait... its too heavy for your pansy ass to lift and install, right? 3/4 ton axles... so its a half ton axle with 8 lugs. no difference.... same steering ujoints, same driveshaft ujoints. pass the crack pipe, dumbass.

x2 on the steering box brace its a must!

one thing i always look at when buying these truck is the wiring... to many times have i spent hours repairing someones wiring job that they fucked with or more then one person over the years.
it takes around 15 wires to run the truck. if you cant fix 15 wires, give it up and go into retirement.

me personally with kids would stay away from the full removable top just in case there was a roll over it just feels alot safer.
you, personally, dont even need a roll cage. your head will negate any damage possible to children, as big as it is.

check the rockers and under the carpet for rust because that's a common area for these chevys.
everything rusts... check the firewall when you open the hood. check inside the doors, on the kick panels by the vents. if you see either, pass. you wont have to try and peel the carpet back to look at rocker panel/floor attachment points. if its rusty on the firewall, its shit.

everything about a blazer is problematic. opinions are more so. One guy sees one thing. another guy sees ten other things. depends on whether or not you know what to look for. look at 10-15 blazers, pay attention, and you will find 20-100 problems.

Just checking the fucking rockers is not a solution or the end-all/be-all solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
and who the fuck are you?


we do.



Right... but then we have to EXPLAIN things that people could LEARN by READING. you really ARE new, arent ya? wanna cookie? or teeth to eat it with?




Are you fucking stoned? why not run the tried and true 205? oh... wait... its too heavy for your pansy ass to lift and install, right? 3/4 ton axles... so its a half ton axle with 8 lugs. no difference.... same steering ujoints, same driveshaft ujoints. pass the crack pipe, dumbass.



it takes around 15 wires to run the truck. if you cant fix 15 wires, give it up and go into retirement.



you, personally, dont even need a roll cage. your head will negate any damage possible to children, as big as it is.



everything rusts... check the firewall when you open the hood. check inside the doors, on the kick panels by the vents. if you see either, pass. you wont have to try and peel the carpet back to look at rocker panel/floor attachment points. if its rusty on the firewall, its shit.

everything about a blazer is problematic. opinions are more so. One guy sees one thing. another guy sees ten other things. depends on whether or not you know what to look for. look at 10-15 blazers, pay attention, and you will find 20-100 problems.

Just checking the fucking rockers is not a solution or the end-all/be-all solution.

He is a grumpy old fart isn't he.
 

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goods and bads of the k5 and wat look u want

sooo since only a few will help ya ill tell ya ...73&75 k5 full convertable top kinda hard to find for cheap

74-91 half tops ..some came stock with soft top..hard to find soft top ones...

if you want round headlights 73-80 if u want deuel rectangle and smoother bodied front clip 81-87
if u want double oblong lights 88-91

now as said before if daily driving tbi is great...and good in hills kinda spendy to repair at times....but in these years they had 700r4 trans bad unless built to fix manf. probs

if more of wheeling side u can do the 4 speed or optional 5 speed in 91...with 205/203/208 t case...205 is best for trails....

now in 81 they started experimenting with the half ton 10 bolt rears they started the eaton g80 gov lock limited slip ... junk.... but the 30 spline axles that were in some of them good...

in the years 83-89 the 3/4 ton rears alot were a c-clip sty semi float axle ...they are alright for daily use but no good offroad...

diesel newer the better 6.5 turbo swap best....

the body is a tough chevy they hold up well in a rollover accidents...know from experience....

there are a few factory add on optiond to look for...there was a few between 73-80 that had a thicker channel frame and duel crossmembers...usuely in cucv or wildlife rigs...good

now were i am i picked mine up for 500$ and drove it home....

look in the glovebox for deluxe axle and gear option..mainly in 4 speed...4.56 gears and 30 spline 1/2 tons.....

i pulled 17mpg out of my tired carbed 350 in town about 5mpg on freeway with 38's and a 4 speed...i would change over to 700r4 in that case again...


if there is anything more ur looking for just pm me and ill let you know wat i can:)
 

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x2 on the steering box brace its a must!
now i have found with the k5 the brace is not wats so nessesary i would definitly do it just to be safe but mine hade a huge prob with breaking bolts so i went to grade8's..bad move just broke the box... but i did seriouse wheeling and was places i shouldnt of been....so yea brace the frame and look into crossover stearing....
 
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