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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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Looks good :) Keep us updated on your progress. As soon as my axles get back from being narrowed I'm doing the same thing.

Tass
 

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looks tight did you have your axles narrowed any ? how long are you making your wheelbase ? can't wait to see the rig finished :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
emery said:
looks tight did you have your axles narrowed any ? how long are you making your wheelbase ? can't wait to see the rig finished :cool:
Thanks for the complements everyone.

Yes I did have the axles narrowed, I posted pics of them previously here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=98042

The wheelbase is going to be 110". It would be tough to do much less and have a decent driveshaft length, unless the rig was lifted a lot more, or different diffs. I wanted to keep the CG low.
 

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What wheels are you using? Looks like Hummer rims, but I cannot tell if the offset has been changed or not.Brakes? I saw another set of Disc brakes Taradon did once on some 'Mogs and kept the stock wheel bolt pattern, Maybe you are thinking of the same thing. I was too afraid to ask for a price:eek: Thanks for the pics! And good luck!

WEPS
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
weps said:
What wheels are you using? Looks like Hummer rims, but I cannot tell if the offset has been changed or not.Brakes? I saw another set of Disc brakes Taradon did once on some 'Mogs and kept the stock wheel bolt pattern, Maybe you are thinking of the same thing. I was too afraid to ask for a price:eek: Thanks for the pics! And good luck!

WEPS
Yes the rims are stock military hummer rims with mag runflats and stock offset. I haven't got to the brakes yet, I am working with a buddy to see if we can come up with a MOG to 8 lug adapter. Once we figure that out then I will fab up some brakes. Secret skunk werks stuff; can't tell more than that. I am trying to make something local and use off the shelf brakes to try and keep the cost down, because I did ask for prices on 8-lug hubs and brakes. :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Here it the progress from today. I finally got the links made up.
One note the lower arms are going to be spares, as I will be making them out of 2"x0.250 wall DOM and not the 1.75"x0.120 wall pictured. The uppers will be as is. Oh, and that goof tab on the upper frame mount, is temporary until I build out for the floor and make a permanent mount on that side. Hope that makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I have gotten some more work done on the links. Mostly finishing up the rear links:

Here is a side shot of the rear link at ride height:


shot of suspension from rear at ride height:


Here is a side shot of the rear link articulated:


And last one shot from rear of it articulated:
 

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Reuben,

Great looking work.

The side pic of the front suspension is that at ride height or at full compression?? Just trying to get a feel of how you are dealing with the tallness of the portals.

What are you using for the ends of your links?

What motor/gearbox/transfer you using?

Sorry for the 100 questions but I am just about to do the same thing. Im using a 302 Windsor, NP435, NP205 and full width Mog 404s and a rover chassis.

:beer:

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the complements. In the post just above the vehicle is where I figure ride height will be. The whole chassis will be slightly taller when I add the 42" swampers, but as far as the axle in travel that is about where I want ride height to be in relation to the chassis. Hope that made sense. I figure the 42s will raise the whole thing about 3" from where you see it. Here is a side shot if that helps (sorry for the bad pic).:


The ends of the upper links are Johnny Joints at both ends, the lowers use a JJ at one end and a bushing at the other to keep the bent arms from flopping around. I am possibly looking at changing the lower JJs to large hiems to get a bit more travel.

The motor is a GM 4.3LV6 TBI, transmission is a 700R4, and transfercase is a NP241C until I break it and step up to an AtlasII.

Sounds like yours will be a fun project. I will be hard to get as low as I have with full width MOGs if you haven't moved the diff, mine is offset by narrowing the housing 7" off the short side. Helped to get the diff away from the oilpan and allow for such a low slung chassis which was one of my main goals; to keep the CG low.
 

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Very nice BTW.I have been in the last week thinking of a similar project.Problem is where to do it and cash.I was thinking though that the idea is to keep the center of gravity as low as possible.What do you think of using a 3.3 flat six from an SVX?At 230 horse it should be up to the task.I was also thinking mid mounting assembly and sitting up front low in the chassis.Any ideas on that or feedback would be great.
 

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Sitting at ride height - thats awesome. For mine Ive cut part of the engine sump away to clear the pinion and front drive shaft and Im putting the motor probably 3in further back than yours but Im still struggling for ride height and up travel.

How much vertical up travel do you think you will have? What do most of the comp buggies normally run?

Like your upper rear link chassis mount. Nice adjustability. I should do the same.

Just thinking about your bent lower links and running a bush in them to stop them rotating. Id imagine that if you hit the link on something then its really going to want to tear the bush mount clean off. Could generate a fair bit of rotational force supporting the rig on the link offset like that. Ah - but then again I guess that arnt really bent that much - probably will be OK.

What are you going to use the rig for??

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Rob, Sound like an interesting design. I know nothing about the flat 6, but the low gearing of MOG axles shouldn't require a lot of HP. I have only seen 1 or 2 mid chassis with seating in front of the engine. I kinda like the weight out front tho.

Sam, I think I will have about 2-3" of vertical uptravel as it sits, I can always adjust with the coilovers I am going to run if needed. I don't know what most comp guys run, but probably more since many don't run portals. I will have much more articulation, because I plan to run a center bumpstop with the frame one mounted much higher.

I'm not sure on how much rotational force the lower links will have. That is the only configuration I could run up front to keep the out of the tires when turned. The Johnny Joint at the frame will allow free movement until it bottoms out then the force will come in, I will limit travel just before that point with straps. All the mounts are 1/4" plate and will be braced well so I don't think I'll have trouble. I have seen others run this setup and seem to be fine.

The rig will be used for rockcrawling, hillclimbs and trailrides. I will probably also compete some with it, if I can afford it.
 

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Nice project, I will folow the next step.
What about an under arm like Toyota or Land Rover to stop rotational force.
I know, it's limit a little the travel but ...

How did you cut the inner axle shaft, have they the lines (don't know the name) all on the lengt or did you make new shorter shaft ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks Swiss Jeeper. I could have used an under arm but I like the 4 link idea better. Those suspensions usually use a panhard bar, and I don't like how they move the axle side to side during travel

I had Taradon narrow the housings, and had him make new inner shaft for the cut down sides. There is not enough splines on the shaft to cut down.
 
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