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thhhpptthh!
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Come on.. whos got the cool, trick little motor mounts for tube chassis?

I wanna see em.
 

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I did a search on this a couple weeks ago, seems that a lot of guys are just using the poly bushing assemblies that you can buy (or home made versions). I believe some vendors also sell just the block side of the motor mount, so you can fab the frame side on you own.

What I decided to do on mine (although it is a truck, not a buggy), was modify the stock motor-side brackets by adding a 1/2" spacer to the inside (350 Chevy) to allow a 3" long bushing assembly to be used (stock mount was 4" wide). On the frame side, I'm using the bottom plate of the stock mount, with the tube for the bushing welded to it. (Ø 1.75 tube).

Pete
 

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pcorssmit said:
I did a search on this a couple weeks ago, seems that a lot of guys are just using the poly bushing assemblies that you can buy (or home made versions). I believe some vendors also sell just the block side of the motor mount, so you can fab the frame side on you own.

What I decided to do on mine (although it is a truck, not a buggy), was modify the stock motor-side brackets by adding a 1/2" spacer to the inside (350 Chevy) to allow a 3" long bushing assembly to be used (stock mount was 4" wide). On the frame side, I'm using the bottom plate of the stock mount, with the tube for the bushing welded to it. (Ø 1.75 tube).

Pete
Pete, you buildig a new rig?

Corey
 

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Heh. I just made some mounts for a chevy last week, and I'll be welding them up tonight. So, I was on the Mountain Offroad site and saw their motor mounts for $90 a pair

http://www.mountainoffroad.com/catalog/BombProof MM/bombproof.htm

and then I saw their 3" bushings for $24 a pair

http://www.mountainoffroad.com/catalog/UnivBushAssy/uba.htm

And I figured that I could bang out these mounts in no time. I was right - it was easy as. 3 3/8"-ish holes in a plate for the block, and two 9/16" holes in two tabs to hold the bushing assembly. MORE had my order out the same day - quick service.

... You know, next time the ZJ mounts go....

Cheers
Bob
 

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Those are basically the mounts I wanted, but I was to cheap to spend the $165 on them (ORD makes them for my application, very similar to the MORE ones you linkes). So I bought the bushings, if I remember right $10/each (from ORD), I got them the day after I ordered them.

Corey--still working on the old shiat-box. I'm swapping out the t-case in order to get a fixed yoke and a flat belly. I need to build a new tranny mount, but wanted to get the motor sitting straight first, it was leaning to the passenger side due to the old stock-replacement style poly mounts being shot. I decided to look into this style mount since guys I know have been real happy w/the More mounts in CJs.

Pete
 

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pcorssmit said:
Those are basically the mounts I wanted, but I was to cheap to spend the $165 on them (ORD makes them for my application, very similar to the MORE ones you linkes). So I bought the bushings, if I remember right $10/each (from ORD), I got them the day after I ordered them.

Corey--still working on the old shiat-box. I'm swapping out the t-case in order to get a fixed yoke and a flat belly. I need to build a new tranny mount, but wanted to get the motor sitting straight first, it was leaning to the passenger side due to the old stock-replacement style poly mounts being shot. I decided to look into this style mount since guys I know have been real happy w/the More mounts in CJs.

Pete
Sounds good. You will be very happy with this arrangement. The motor doesn't even think about torquing over with the MORE style mounts. rock on!
 

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I might re build them though, I do not like how much the block alone twists in them.
 

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whenever i builf motor mounts, i use poly YJ leaf bushings and the block mounts you see in jegs (though i bought mine locally). the mounts are about $25 and the bushings run you about $20. now get some tube together and hook it all up. drill some plate according to your block and bolt them up. weld the bushing assembly to that and weld the moroso/jegs block mounts to the frame or vise versa. run a piece of tube under the oil pan connecting the two to eleminate any twist.
 
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