Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
3107945
So last year (2019) LINE-X Corporate started a competition for LINE-X Franchises to build a vehicle for a competition resulting in two winners. “These two vehicles were selected from several vehicles submitted by franchises as part of a special SEMA contest. Twelve finalists were placed in two groups as part of two different contests that allowed LINE-X fans to vote for their favorite vehicle on social media, while LINE-X franchisees voted for their favorite in a separate contest.” (See: LINE-X Franchise Builds Stun at 2019 SEMA Show | LINE-X).

So let me start by saying we are a LINE-X FRANCHISE and do not represent our corporate office in any manner. All opinions expressed in here are solely mine. Now like all builds, they have a story, sometimes you know the history sometimes you don't. In my case, I bought this 1983 CJ-7 back in 1996 as a second owner in EL Paso, TX as a young Soldier.

In the 24 years 'she's possessed me', she's had three major retrofits with this being her fourth. I will cover as much as I can for historical perspective as well as technical. One thing that has always been important to me is that I wanted a Jeep that I drive in and drive out. With that, my intent was not to build a trailer rig although I have gone home on one more than once. Berlin to Grafenwoehr being my longest tow, thank God for the “Allgemeiner Deutscher Automobil Club” ADAC and if you've been to Europe you know it's one of the best tow/insurance services out there.

My intent was to build a garage D.I.Y Jeep. I'm not saying I don't use good parts, just like to figure out how to make things work they way I want them. What this means is my Jeep has drawn inspiration from Jeep's and trucks all over the place. I am not claiming to have invented anything here, only to assemble the way I wanted it. Someday it will go to my kids to build Version 5.0 but for now, I am starting Version 4.0.

So below is how I bought it back in El Paso, Texas from Roger Little of “Little 4x4” (See: little 4x4 elpaso - Google Search) Yes as I recall I paid full price, Roger wouldn't budge.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
VERSION 1.0 (1 of 2)
3107999

As a young newly married Soldier I didn't have allot of money so my first order of business was to make it look a little nicer without breaking the bank. Keep in mind this is 1996 in El Paso, Texas while I was stationed at Fort Bliss.

The original color was silver which the old film camera scans lost, sorry I don't have time for photo corrections. The first thing I did when I got the Jeep home was to sand off the dried out and faded paint. The body and the hood had a few dents, nothing a little Bondo couldn't handle.

So I learned a few lessons here. Whenever you're working with Bondo, back in 1996 we didn't have YouTube but we certainly do now. If you are working with Bondo for the first time, make sure you block sand it so you feather it out properly. I sanded too much material from my hood, right in front of the driver window. This has been a thorn in my side for 24 years. Time to get that corrected but that's for a future post. Check out this video from Eastwood.Com. [See: Beginner’s Guide to Sanding Body Filler - Basics of Body Work - Eastwood]. I have been using Eastwood for years, they've got good products, advice and videos. The only modification at this point was trimming off the front 4" of the front fenders as well as scowling a line to cut with a jigsaw where the factory rubber fenders flares outer lip touched the body. This gained 2" as I recall to the rear opening. For the SEMA build were going to stretch the wheel 12" to fit a 40" tire while keeping it CJ-7.5 rather than an CJ-8, more on this latter.






Additional Images.

So after I knocked down the bad paint and did some minor body it was off to Earl Scheib Paint and Body (Now Closed). So for those that are considering a budget paint shop for a project you're working on, I can say I am more than happy. The only complaint I would say is don't ever expect to find matching touch-up-paint. Budget paint shops tend to get random colors, so I was told.

3108015
Back when I had this done, they charged $99.00 for the paint, plus $99.00 for the Ultra Shine (whatever it was called) topcoat and an additional $150 to shoot under the hood and the dash which I dissembled to help keep costs down. So for $400 after tax I had a 10 foot paint job which I ended up touching up with rattle can whenever I needed to, making it a 20 foot truck. Bottom line their paint job has lasted (not beautiful) me for 24 years, I will post photos latter when I get to where my Jeep currently sits. If you are considering going this route with a budget paint job and can find a shop like Earl Scheib in your neighborhood, go for it.















Additional Images.

Paint  1983 Jeep CJ-7 Driverside.jpg Paint 1883 Jeep CJ-7 Dash.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,282 Posts
You buy that Jeep from Roger over at "A Little 4x4" in Chaparral NM? Those first few pictures looks very familiar! In case you didn't know he's still in the same spot doing the same thing, and he's still an asshole. Lol
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
You buy that Jeep from Roger over at "A Little 4x4" in Chaparral NM? Those first few pictures looks very familiar! In case you didn't know he's still in the same spot doing the same thing, and he's still an asshole. Lol
Too Funny! I was assigned to Germany in 2000 and returned to Fort Bliss in 2011. By then I was already done with my 3rd Upgrade (Drivetrain), I went back to Roger to say hello, his yard and buildings had grown quit a bit which was good to see, but he didn't recall me from Adam, no reason he should. He was a good dude, glad to see he's still doing well and growing!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
TEASER

So as I work my way through old photos and notes I thought I would share a picture of what we will be doing with this upcoming build, Version 4. I have a junkyard GM 14 Bolt Rear Axle and a Dana 60 Front both with full Artec Truss'. We have a stretched Throttle Down Customs frame allowing us to go the 10" to 12" I'm looking for. We have a a set of Trail Worth Fab rims. A set of 40" Pro Comp MT2 from our friends at 4WheelParts. I also have the donor 1981 Jeep VIN# 1JCCM87E2BT005878.
3108065

  • 1 - Made in the U.S.A
  • J - Jeep
  • C - MPV (Multi-Purpose Vehicle)
  • C - 258ci
  • M - 4 Speed Manual
  • 87 - CJ-7
  • E - 4,150 lbs.
  • 2 - Check Number (Security Code)
  • B - 1981
  • T- Toledo Plant
  • 005978 - SSN (Sequential Serial Number)
Sorry I always find the small details interesting. We will be using this 1981 CJ-7 tub and hardtop for the stretch as well as some other parts to keep my tub as original Jeep as possible since it's the only thing original part left by the time I complete this build. We will also be stretching the donor hardtop on the tub with a second donor hardtop not in the picture. In all cases the donor parts I am using are from wrecked or damaged vehicles, as a Jeep lover I feel bad chopping up older rigs since the CJ-7's aren't around like they used to be. Also, if there is anyone local that wants to use any of the remnants for their project please get in contact with me, I would like to see these parts go to good use.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
1983 Jeep v1.0 Interrior.jpg
Build v1.0

Being a young Soldier in the Army this was all I really needed or wanted. But this was only the beginning as I grew to really enjoy a Jeep over any other off-road vehicle. As for the furry cow skin seat covers, this is back in 1998 while I was stationed at Fort Bliss in El Paso, Texas. I think the end-state for my Version 1.0 build was appropriate.

Upgrades:
  • Front Roll-Bar (Little 4x4)
  • Cow Skin Seat Covers (JC Whitney)
  • Herculiner (That's right I said it!) I will discuss this as we strip it and LINE-X it.
  • Grant Formula GT Steering Wheel (Summit Racing)
  • Frame Mount Steering Brace (JC Whitney - Now CarParts.com)
Modifications:
  • Cut the fenders 2" using the original flares as a guide.
  • Trimmed off front fender lip by approximately 4".
Additional Images:
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top