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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
3112491
As a LINE-X dealer in Southern , California, we tend to get allot of classic restorations, hot-rod builds and of course off-road vehicles. Often. Well get just the body or tub on a rolling frame or on a auto body rotisserie. Depending the job we often do the interiors for sound and under-body for rust.

So back in October we welded up a 1"x 1" frame and put some Harbor Freight wheels on it and voilà, we have cart. So today with the help of the forklift we got the body off and on the cart so we can move them around and eventually well use this to spray the tub.











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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
3112564
So yesterday we got the GenRight 20 Gallon Fuel Tank out and set inside the new frame. It's much clearer now on what modifications will have to occur to get the tank in place. To start the factory Jeep frame bends down after the axles as it reaches back to the rear bumper. GenRight did a great job as this tank fits into the factory Jeep frame without issue; however, with the Throttle Down Kustoms (TDK) the frame continues straight back to the bumper without dropping back down. I believe we will axtend the botton side of the rear crossmember to address not only the 2 7/16" gap on the rear mounting plate but it should help us with the monting of the winch.

In Build 3.0 I ran the dual exhaust inside the frame. This is important to me as I like the look and the clearance. In order to to this we will be inserting a 3" OD .125 wall DOM in the rear frame cross member as well as the body support cross-member. Next, we will modify the top corners of fuel tank by notching out the top 4" (Deep) x 4" (Inward) corners from front to rear. This should give us the room we need to allow the exhaust the space it needs to slip by the fuel tank without causing any heat issues near the fuel. I am assuming we will lose 1 to 2 gallons of capacity. This will create an issue with how the current fuel filler necks work. If I have to I will put a fuel door in the bed of the Jeep but I am trying to keep it DOT legal.

Another concern with doing this is being able to thread the body bolt into the body without the exhaust interfering. We will likely use 2.5" 3 bolt exhaust flange in order to remove the tail section of the pipe to get to the body mount screw.

Has anyone seen this done on a Jeep?

To Do:
  • Modify Tank
  • Cut in 3" DOM Tubing
  • Create a 2 7/16" spacer to mount the bottom of the fuel tank to the frame and support the forward bolts on the winch.
  • Modify rear-exhaust pipe so it can be removed.







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Discussion Starter #23
IMG_20201217_095014.jpg
So yesterday we received the trailing arms back from my buddy Jesse @ JP Designs. He TIG'd them together with the upper busing at an approximate 5°. Additionally I asked him to upgrade the busing bolt sleeve from 9/16" to a 3/4" because for some reason I did not see the option when I made my order. He machined a set of Autofab bushings to fit.

Additionally we received our box of EMF Heim Joints from EMF Rod Ends and Steering Components. So if you're asking why I went with EMF, I like the black on silver as that will be the color throughout the suspension. I believe Canadian Made is as good as American Made and honestly, they look bad ass!

We also received our order from McMaster-Carr a box of 3/4" x 4" zinc-aluminum coated within 24 hours of ordering them (they have a warehouse up in L.A.) As stated earlier I wanted the suspension to be black and silver as if it came new from a dealer. With most Grade 8 bolts being zinc coated and yellow in appearance it wasn't going to work. We sand blasted a few zinc plated bolts and applied clear POR-15 Direct to Metal (DTM) which works but I am unsure of the durability over time. That's why we decided to go with zinc-aluminum.

One of the numbers we were waiting on for the 4-Link Calculator was the actual weight of the rear trailing arms assembled which was 31 lbs. 9.4 Oz. RuffStuff advertised them at 32 lbs. 5 oz which is pretty damn close.

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Discussion Starter #25
😩 Well since you put it like that... Honestly I wanted all the actual parts I was gonna use in the build, but you make a good point. Stay tuned, I am sure to entertain some more... Honestly, I am glad you responded, sometimes I think I am typing to myself which is some next level shit from talking to yourself! :LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
3114803
So we sort of took a break during Christmas, then we started working again and taking pictures and obly now have I had time to upload them. So I hope to get back on track with a near daily update. Over the past six weeks we managed to get the engine out, transferred to the Throttle Down Kustoms (TDK) Frame. During the engine swap we noticed that the factory OEM Chevy Bushing had failed. The rubber had separated from the metal so the engine was effective just resting on the pad. As a result we decided to upgrade the engine mount pads to thicker more substantial Prothane ones from Speedway Motors.

Due to the mounts being nearly twice as thick we had to modify the original Advance Adapters V8 Engine Mount Kit. Although this worked in the end I did not feel that it was going to be substantial enough and decided to remove the Advance Adapters Mounts and install a set of M.O.R.E. Bomb Proof Engine Mounts. We should get those installed latter this week once they arrive.

Other updates are we removed the old CJ-7 Tub, cut it at the wheel-well, had a father son team come pickup the old CJ-7 roller-frame to take back to life in Yuma AZ. We also purchased a Langmuir CNC Plasma System and started fabricating the rear bumper. I'll get those post up soon.











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